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I am new, Hi and question


Tim_2020

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Hi, I am new here and have had a few Rangers over the years, older models.
I am looking for new Ranger and looked at 2001 yesterday and was surprised to see the leaf springs in back and how the springs attached to the bed of the truck like unibody construction. Is this type construction to certain models of the Ranger? Which models have this type construction? I have never seen this type construction on a Ranger before

Anyway the 1 leaf spring was working its way thru the box from metal fatigue and rust.
Thank You Tim
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

That leaf spring's rear hanger was rusted out and broke, not unusually on any pickup truck, not a Ford issue
And the unattached leaf spring WILL poke a hole in the bed if left that way

Picture here of Ranger with bed off: http://www.fordrangerforum.com/members/ranger144/albums/rusty-sonic-blue-4x4/59292-rusty-frame.jpg

You can see its a Frame not unibody
And you can see what rear hanger should look like

And how rusty the rear under side of a pickup can get, lol

Its not hard to fix, but you do need a grinder and or torch to remove the rivets on the hanger, the new one will bolt on
It is best to remove the bed to do this work but not required
If you use a torch the heat WILL blister the paint in the bed so run water in the bed when using a torch

How-to here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/suspension-tires-wheels-125/how-replacement-rear-spring-hangers-shackles-97011/

Only 6 bolts hold the bed on, and 3 screws for Fuel Filler, and then unplug the tail light wiring
Its not heavy, two people can lift it
 
Last edited:

Eddo Rogue

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Welcome to TRS :)

That leaf spring's rear hanger was rusted out and broke, not unusually on any pickup truck, not a Ford issue
And the unattached leaf spring WILL poke a hole in the bed if left that way

Picture here of Ranger with bed off: http://www.fordrangerforum.com/members/ranger144/albums/rusty-sonic-blue-4x4/59292-rusty-frame.jpg

You can see its a Frame not unibody
And you can see what rear hanger should look like

And how rusty the rear under side of a pickup can get, lol

Its not hard to fix, but you do need a grinder and or torch to remove the rivets on the hanger, the new one will bolt on
It is best to remove the bed to do this work but not required
If you use a torch the heat WILL blister the paint in the bed so run water in the bed when using a torch

How-to here: https://www.ranger-forums.com/suspension-tires-wheels-125/how-replacement-rear-spring-hangers-shackles-97011/

Only 6 bolts hold the bed on, and 3 screws for Fuel Filler, and then unplug the tail light wiring
Its not heavy, two people can lift it
X2
 

Tim_2020

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OKay must been broke from the frame, both of them, both leaf springs. I guess missed that. My bad.
Rust lol should see my truck can see thru the frame in some parts and someone drove into me. Insurance is going to buy mu truck and I am trying to find another truck. May just buy it back and take the rest money till I can find something. Still drive it and just a back up, winter,work around property truck, run errands etc
 
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Eddo Rogue

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OKay must been broke from the frame, both of them, both leaf springs. I guess missed that. My bad.
Rust lol should see my truck can see thru the frame in some parts and someone drove into me. Insurance is going to buy mu truck and I am trying to find another truck. May just buy it back and take the rest money till I can find something. Still drive it and just a back up, winter,work around property truck, run errands etc
or make it a project truck that would cut all that out anyways.... 4 link Prerunner? slammed mini truck?
Around property truck would cool too, maybe pull the bed, make basic repair/mods/replacements the broken suspension parts, make a new flat bed from planks or whatever material and call it a day....maybe throw on a water tank, bug sprayer, seed spreader, front hitch, and a winch, and paint the cab barn red, ultimate farm wagon!
 

Tim_2020

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The truck has 140000 miles on it the passenger door is damaged and fender , but looks like door frame is straight. so I could replace the door and fender. Left front brake line rusted leaking. So thinking now maybe I will go back and look at it again, they said I could work on on the truck there and fix it so I could drive it home and it is at a farm and they have a place I can pull it into. I just need a beater truck with 4x4 and I am hard on trucks anyway. Just watched a video on replacing the leaf spring hangers not so hard.
I have the tools for the brake line and get new flex line and caliper. The bleeder screw could be rusted in and anymore I will not mess with them to much anymore.
One of the things I do when buying a older truck is inspect brake lines, if they look original and rusty I tear it all out and replace them.. just not worth the risk.

Now Maybe I need new post, is the anti lock brake passthru to bleed? Or is it solenoid operated and I need to jump a relay to bleed the anti lock brake?
 

RonD

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You shouldn't need to bleed anti-lock brake module, unless its new, but if you do then yes, you need to electrically activate the solenoids to do that, no relay, direct activation, there are instructions for DIY, and there is a tool/hand held device to do it, might be able to rent one
 

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