getting up there in miles

[BiggSherm1988]

So i have a new to me 08 sport 4x4 4.0L that I've been daily driving for about 6 months and its about to hit 150K. Besides the obvious rust and normal replacement stuff what should i look into buying before hand. What is typical to go out in a higher mileage ranger? How common is it for the 08 timing tensioners(or the timing systems) to go bad? I really want to lift it but I want to make sure I have most things taken care of before I lift it. I have the luck that once I lift it the engine will pop or something stupid. I also live overseas so getting parts is kind of difficult, that is why I like to buy stuff with Murphy's law in mind.

 

[Uncle Gump]

The timing chain tensioners should be replaced at 100K miles.

The thermostat housing (plastic) should be updated too. Find an aluminum replacement.

I think I saw a post by @DILLARD000 outlining a pretty complete maintenance list. Maybe he will chime in.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Your 08 also has a lower ride height the previous year 4x4 models. It is pretty common for people to find pre 08 vehicles and take the torsion keys and rear lift blocks to make their 08 4x4's ride the same as earlier versions. The is a Tech Library article on this... called the pre key lift.

 

[gaz]

BiggSherm,

I would consider a compete engine rebuild with a new oil pump, timing set, water pump and reconditioned transmission before the suspension.

This will get you through the next 150k with confidence

 

[superj]

an engine rebuild? just because its near 150k? thats kind of really going extreme.

 

[BiggSherm1988]

BiggSherm,

I would consider a compete engine rebuild with a new oil pump, timing set, water pump and reconditioned transmission before the suspension.

This will get you through the next 150k with confidence

Seems a bit extreme but not a bad suggestion. As I don't know the history it might be a good route. I'll look at my options. I'm over seas so it would definitely be logistically difficult but not impossible.

an engine rebuild? just because its near 150k? thats kind of really going extreme.

Isn't wrong though. It would make me confident in the vehicles drivability.

 

[BiggSherm1988]

Your 08 also has a lower ride height the previous year 4x4 models. It is pretty common for people to find pre 08 vehicles and take the torsion keys and rear lift blocks to make their 08 4x4's ride the same as earlier versions. The is a Tech Library article on this... called the pre key lift.

The timing chain tensioners should be replaced at 100K miles.

The thermostat housing (plastic) should be updated too. Find an aluminum replacement.

I think I saw a post by @DILLARD000 outlining a pretty complete maintenance list. Maybe he will chime in.

I actually did the alluminum housing already. Was the first thing I did. It was pretty easy and super cheap.

I've been looking for the older torsion keys. Blocks are easy to find.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

an engine rebuild? just because its near 150k? thats kind of really going extreme.

Have you seen the posts @gaz has put up as far as tweaking the 2.9 and 4.0 for performance? Granted cared for these engines are pretty durable, I’ve had several engines 150k plus, one was a 2.9 with as near as I could tell about 250k and not rebuilt. But after reading some of the stuff on things that can be done to improve performance, it’s got me thinking that it might not be a terrible idea even if the engine is relatively healthy.

That said, a simple compression test can give you a bit of info on the relative health of a motor…

 

[superj]

compression and vacuum tests are very good.

no, i haven't seen any but i was just surprised because i have not generally not bought vehicles with less than 150k on them, my whole life. i always forget i am usually the outlier on stuff though so its not good to compare my experiences with others.

like this 04 ranger i have now. i bought it with 205k on it. most people would not look at a vehicle with that high of mileage probably, unless they were broke or just really needed a truck.

side note that is kind of funny related to mileage. we sold our 355k miles jeep cherokee a month of two back. the guy who bought it is an older retired guy who just needed a vehicle for work. he is a pizza delivery guy. crazy choice for a delivery vehicle since he didn't know the history. i did give him the records on it back to when it was bought new in 99 though since we got it from the original owners and kept receipts and stuff for everything done

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

compression and vacuum tests are very good.

no, i haven't seen any but i was just surprised because i have not generally not bought vehicles with less than 150k on them, my whole life. i always forget i am usually the outlier on stuff though so its not good to compare my experiences with others.

like this 04 ranger i have now. i bought it with 205k on it. most people would not look at a vehicle with that high of mileage probably, unless they were broke or just really needed a truck.

side note that is kind of funny related to mileage. we sold our 355k miles jeep cherokee a month of two back. the guy who bought it is an older retired guy who just needed a vehicle for work. he is a pizza delivery guy. crazy choice for a delivery vehicle since he didn't know the history. i did give him the records on it back to when it was bought new in 99 though since we got it from the original owners and kept receipts and stuff for everything done

I’ve had everything from new to over 200k. Most of mine have been in the 100-150k range though. For the most part mileage doesn’t scare me. Except for the 460. Seems like it’s pretty common that when they get up around 100k they develop a serious drinking problem in terms of oil. I have one sitting here waiting for me to get the green Ranger back together so I can return my attention to it.

That said, I’m getting pretty good at replacing motors in RBVs. I’ve had a run of issues, mostly 2.9 and 4.0 OHV. One of these times I’m actually going to go through the trouble to rebuild a couple to try and see if I can get beyond problems created by other people. Then it will rest solely on my shit luck. Which is somewhat epic.

 

[DILLARD000]

For a 2008 Ranger with V6~4.0L~SOHC Engine + 5r55e Tranny + 1354 TransferCase + ....
at 150kMiles, if Engine is removed+rebuilt, might as well rebuild the Tranny too; a judgement call only you can make.
Ok if NOT rebuilding Engine+Tranny, starting at front of vehicle,
personal recomendations for a "100kMile maintenance routine" with a few reliability upgrades, subject to debate+change:
~ Add a 2nd left stock TransCooler, parallel to 1st right TransCooler at right, new Hydraulic ATF Hoses+DoubleWormClamps+StainlessBarbTees
~ Replace junk PlasticTanked 2RowCore Radiator (NotoriousFailureItem) with AllAluminum 3or4RowCore Radiator
~ New 16psi RadiatorCap, MotorCraft\Stant preferred
~ New 1.5"ID RadiatorHoses + DoubleWormClamps, consider StainlessFlex instead of Rubber, easy & slightly increases cooling capacity
~ New Fan+Clutch+WaterPump, MotorCraft preferred
~ Replace junk Plastic ThermoStatHousing (NotoriousFailureItem) with Aluminum version; DONE !
~ Replace junk Plastic 2wayHeaterBallValve (NotoriousFailureItem) with OldStyle Metal 2wayHeaterPlugValve; not applicable to 4WayValve.
~ New CoolantHoses + DoubleWormClamps, reverse HeaterCore hoses at FireWall
~ New Coolant, Gold\Yellow Non2EHA MotorCraft# vc-7dil or Peak# pkpb53 or Zerex#zxg05ru1 preferred
~ New SerpBelt, Continental#Elite or GoodYear#GatorBack preferred
~ New BeltTensioner+IdlerPulley, or at least take them apart, clean+lube
~ Remove OilPan, remove+clean OilPumpScreen, inspect for broken TimingGuides, new FumotoDrainValve, new OilPanGasket.
~ New OilPresurized TimingTensioners (NotoriousFailureItem), MotorCraft\Cloyes preferred, no cheap\lesser offbrands
~ New Oil+Filter; 0w30.FullSyn & K&N#HP Series preferred
~ New AirFilter, "Performance" ColdAirIntake is waste of good money+time
~ Inspect+Clean AirIntake MAFSensor, Inspect+DoubleInsulate WiringHarness
~ Remove+Clean+Lube ThrottleBody, reinstall with lite smear of RTV on Gasket\ORing
~ Inspect+DoubleInsulate ThrottlePositionSensor WiringHarness if Equipped
~ New VacHoses + LiteSpringClamps
~ New PCVValve; replace PCVHoseElbows (NotoriousFailureItem) with tougher 5/8"ID HeaterHoseElbows
~ Remove+Clean+Lube+Test IdleAirControl\IACValve, reinstall with lite smear of RTV on Gasket.
~ New Plugs, MotorCraft\AutoLite Platinum or Iridium preferred, "Performance" OffBrands likely waste of money+time
~ New Wires, MotorCraft\Equal preferred, "Performance" OffBrands likely waste of money+time
~ Remove+Clean+Test CoilPack, renew if needed; MotorCraft preferred, "Performance" OffBrands likely waste of money+time
~ New OxSensors 3places, MotorCraft\Bosch only, Bosch# 15719 with 24inLongCable+FordPlug will replace all Ford 4WireNarrowBand OxSensors
~ New FuelFilter, fill Tank with PremiumGas + bottle of InjectorCleaner once\twice a year
OutOfTime, GottaGo, to be continued...

 

[Roert42]

Most of that stuff Dillard list is good advice, but not critical for a long reliable life. It will help prevent things from failing at an inconvenient time.

The only thing you MUST do, is replace the timing chain tensioners. Takes about an hour or so, and if you time it when you need a oil change you kill two birds with ones stone. They will wear out, cause catastrophic damage to the engine, and you will not see much in the way of symptoms until it is too late.

Some people will tell you Motorcraft parts only, Coyles is very high quality as well. I do mine around 70K miles.

 

[DILLARD000]

...Continued from above:
~ Drop 5r55e TrannyPan, drain 5~7qts of old ATF, remove Filter
~ Drop ValveBody, install new SolenoidSet, new ServoGasket+ORings, new BondedGasket.
~ ReInstall ValveBody, torq+sequence VB Bolts to spec, new Filter
~ Inspect+Adjust Intermediate+OverDrive Bands
~ New TrannyPan Gasket, torq TrannyPanBolts to spec, refill with fresh MerconV ATF
~ Drive 50Miles+, HandPump ~1qt of ATF from TrannyDipTube & refill with fresh MerconV; do this 6~7 times to completely flush ATF.
~ Drain+Fill 1354 TransferCase with fresh MerconLV (not MerconV);
~ Consider buying spare 4x4ConModule + 4x4ShiftMotor (NotoriousFailureItems) for TransferCase controls
~ Lube DriveShaft SlipJoints+UJoints
~ Drain+Fill rear Diff with fresh 75w140.FullSyn+FricModifier per spec; personal preference is half/half AmsOil#75w140/SAE250.FullSyn+FricModifier.
~ Suction+Fill front Diff with fresh 80w90.FullSyn per spec; personal preference is half/half AmsOil# 75w140/SAE250.FullSyn+FricModifier.
~ Remove InstrumentCluster & DashCenterPanel, general "house cleaning", renew LampBulbs, DoubleInsulate+Tighten Wiring+Connections
~ Remove SteeringColumnCover, replace ShiftLever+ODButton, DoubleInsulate+Tighten ODButtonCable+Wiring+Connections, Adjust+Tighten ShiftTube
~ Renew BrakePads+Discs as needed, bleed+suction+fill Reservoir with fresh DOT4, lube HubBearings thru ABSSensorHoles while doing Brakes
~ Suction+Refill PowerSteeringReservoir with fresh MerconV
All I can think of for now... Click here for more info on above items

 

[Eddo Rogue]

my '93 4.0 has 91k original miles ( she's not the daily driver). Just routine maintenance and repairs. The engine is the least of problems. It only seems to squeak through cam synchronizers, which is only in CA version, which Motorcraft no longer manufactures. Besides that, she runs like a top. I will probably need a fuel pump soon, occasional hard start. Also my tach is stuck at higher rpms, but I live with it for now.

I had to have the transfer case rebuilt, but that was my bad, didn't check the (lack of) oil soon enough after purchase.

I already switched to a 1 piece driveshaft, big improvement. Did a leveling kit. Also big improvement.

Anyways the real problem is the clunks, squeaks, creaks, and wild loose steering. Probably needs all new ball joints, tie rods, steering links, bushings, bearings etc...I've already gathered a few of those things, just waiting for time to wrench. Gonna start with the ball joints as I know for sure they are bad.

 

[Bill]

BiggSherm,

I would consider a compete engine rebuild with a new oil pump, timing set, water pump and reconditioned transmission before the suspension.

This will get you through the next 150k with confidence

A rebuild shouldn't be necessary if the engine has been maintained. The timing set should be replaced, and the valve stem seals leak on those engines with high mileage. Especially if someone though extended oil change intervals were a good way to save a few $$.