somepeoplecallmemaurice
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2024
- Messages
- 4
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 3
- Location
- San Antonio
- Vehicle Year
- 2001
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Transmission
- Automatic
I have a no start, no spark issue and had recently replaced the ckp and had driven the truck for around a week but not for very long or very far... After driving it more extensively one day and it staying parked for several hours, it stalled out and died on me while driving and shut down completely while driving ultimately leading to me having to tow it home. I can no longer check to see what warning lights come on but...
The best I can remember on the most recent time I checked, with the key in the on position I had the standard orange color check engine light on along with the more serious check gauge in a red light, and I have to assume it was referring to oil gauge which was flatlined at zero. Same combo of lights appeared when it stalled and died on me while driving — the last night it was operable before now. And as a bit of a side note, when I was recently shopping around for starters on Amazon, I noticed that one of the compatible ones was presented with a bundle deal with the 2nd item being a starter solenoid, and the 3rd item was an oil pressure switch — something I generally wouldn't have expected to be bundled in with the starter and solenoid. Seemed a bit out of place to me but maybe that's giving away my lack of knowledge... is that far less surprising to you all?
Anyway, back to the pressing topic at hand... I've also recently purchased an obd2 scanner hoping maybe it could help me zero in on my no start no spark issue. And the only codes I got out of it before I ran into connection problems were for seatbelt pretensioner and seatbelt pretensioner clips and altho the app for the scanner said those were somewhat common for this year (or perhaps age of?) Ranger, I hope it's not because a recent attempt with a slim jim digging around in the door has snagged on a wire to a side impact sensor that theoretically could be on that same circuit? Seems like a secondary problem if it is a problem tho and can't recall seeing a light related to airbags or anything else, and can't check any of those lights atm because....
I've periodically had to plug in a charger to boost my battery back up to cranking level ever since it's been sitting without the chance for alternator to do its part, but even before then once every couple months when turning truck off and getting out I'd hear a sporadic fast clicking coming from fusebox under hood, but hadn't gotten around to chasing it down as it wasn't a constant issue. Now however during this repair endeavor I've noticed something drawing down battery current even without key on and by measuring Amp draw between disconnected negative battery cable and the – battery post, I identified 2 circuits in the I/P panel: 26 (battery saver relay, aux. relay box, restraint central module, generic electroic module, instrument cluster) and 29 (radio). Of course those were just the problem ones with the key off...
Once I had the key to on position I again noticed my battery voltage dropping from 12.3ish to 6.7ish and decided to check it with one of the 2 main positive cables disconnected one at a time (one ran to the high current fuse and relay box under the hood and the other to the starter) and found with starter cable disconnected it was fine — altho after disconnecting starter I still had an issue so I tried removing the only fuses/relays labeled for the starter and discovered removing the 50a fuse allowed me to retain battery voltage reading. However, when I tried subbing the 50a fuse for the I/P panel I still had the same problem. With the #11 50a removed tho and battery voltage not dropping I thought maybe now I could still run scanner but realized I needed my instrument cluster on so I tried reinserting #26 on I/P panel and altho I didn't seem to be losing current with it still, I can only assume that the missing 50a that ran ignition switch as well as starter relay may be necessary also for my instrument cluster? ... As I'm not seeing any check engine lights and can't get scanner to connect.
Do I actually need to consider replacing that whole fuse/relay panel under hood just because of that one bad spot or could I move those wires to an unused spot and try plugging the 50a into it instead, or is there something else I need to check somewhere down/up the line from that point on fuse panel where its corresponding wire is coming from or going to? Thanks in advance!
The best I can remember on the most recent time I checked, with the key in the on position I had the standard orange color check engine light on along with the more serious check gauge in a red light, and I have to assume it was referring to oil gauge which was flatlined at zero. Same combo of lights appeared when it stalled and died on me while driving — the last night it was operable before now. And as a bit of a side note, when I was recently shopping around for starters on Amazon, I noticed that one of the compatible ones was presented with a bundle deal with the 2nd item being a starter solenoid, and the 3rd item was an oil pressure switch — something I generally wouldn't have expected to be bundled in with the starter and solenoid. Seemed a bit out of place to me but maybe that's giving away my lack of knowledge... is that far less surprising to you all?
Anyway, back to the pressing topic at hand... I've also recently purchased an obd2 scanner hoping maybe it could help me zero in on my no start no spark issue. And the only codes I got out of it before I ran into connection problems were for seatbelt pretensioner and seatbelt pretensioner clips and altho the app for the scanner said those were somewhat common for this year (or perhaps age of?) Ranger, I hope it's not because a recent attempt with a slim jim digging around in the door has snagged on a wire to a side impact sensor that theoretically could be on that same circuit? Seems like a secondary problem if it is a problem tho and can't recall seeing a light related to airbags or anything else, and can't check any of those lights atm because....
I've periodically had to plug in a charger to boost my battery back up to cranking level ever since it's been sitting without the chance for alternator to do its part, but even before then once every couple months when turning truck off and getting out I'd hear a sporadic fast clicking coming from fusebox under hood, but hadn't gotten around to chasing it down as it wasn't a constant issue. Now however during this repair endeavor I've noticed something drawing down battery current even without key on and by measuring Amp draw between disconnected negative battery cable and the – battery post, I identified 2 circuits in the I/P panel: 26 (battery saver relay, aux. relay box, restraint central module, generic electroic module, instrument cluster) and 29 (radio). Of course those were just the problem ones with the key off...
Once I had the key to on position I again noticed my battery voltage dropping from 12.3ish to 6.7ish and decided to check it with one of the 2 main positive cables disconnected one at a time (one ran to the high current fuse and relay box under the hood and the other to the starter) and found with starter cable disconnected it was fine — altho after disconnecting starter I still had an issue so I tried removing the only fuses/relays labeled for the starter and discovered removing the 50a fuse allowed me to retain battery voltage reading. However, when I tried subbing the 50a fuse for the I/P panel I still had the same problem. With the #11 50a removed tho and battery voltage not dropping I thought maybe now I could still run scanner but realized I needed my instrument cluster on so I tried reinserting #26 on I/P panel and altho I didn't seem to be losing current with it still, I can only assume that the missing 50a that ran ignition switch as well as starter relay may be necessary also for my instrument cluster? ... As I'm not seeing any check engine lights and can't get scanner to connect.
Do I actually need to consider replacing that whole fuse/relay panel under hood just because of that one bad spot or could I move those wires to an unused spot and try plugging the 50a into it instead, or is there something else I need to check somewhere down/up the line from that point on fuse panel where its corresponding wire is coming from or going to? Thanks in advance!