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Fuel sending unit


choppers_rule

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Hi, I’m not able to find fuel sending unit for a 1984 side tank, I believe it’s 17 gallons?
Someone said it’s the same part as in 1984 Ford bronco II sending unit, could someone verify?
Thanks,
Denny
 


RonD

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If you mean fuel pump assembly then no, not the same

If its just the sender unit, then 1983 to 1988 Rangers and B2s used the same senders
1989 and up used different senders
 

choppers_rule

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Ron, it’s just the sender unit.
LMC truck has one for 86-88; does it matter if it’s for the 2.3 or the 2.9? My truck is 2.8
 

AndyB.

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I don’t believe it would be the same part. The sending unit will be unique to an ‘83-‘84 Ranger with a 17 gallon side tank (in ‘85 the opening changed from 2” - 4”. You’ll need to check obsolete Ford parts dealers, such as Green Sales. Their research desk can get you the part number and tell you if they have one—or if anyone else does.
 

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If we are just talking the sending unit then engine or tank size wouldn't matter just Year

Up through 1988 Ford fuel level senders(AND GAUGES) used 73-10 ohms, 73 ohms EMPTY, 10 ohms FULL
1989 and up use 16-160 ohms, 16 ohms EMPTY, 160 ohms FULL

So an early gauge won't work with later sender, and visa versa
Wiring was the same

The Float arm attached to the sender is important because its related to tank size, tank height really
You want it to show EMPTY accurately, since inaccurate FULL won't strand you, lol
So you want the sender to be at its limit(73 ohms) when float is within two inches or so of the bottom of the tank, this is called the "reserve", lol, so you can set the "reserve" by adjusting float arm based on lower end of fuel pump on the assembly
Two inches might be 3 gallons left, but this does have to do with tank width and length, so your call

Same for FULL but if you set lower limit and the upper limit doesn't allow float to move to the top of assembly its not a big deal, gauge just shows FULL until you burn a few gallons of fuel, MOST vehicles are that way when new, lol
EMPTY is the main one to get right

You can read about them here: https://www.fordification.com/tech/fuel-sending-units.htm
And maybe you can fix your original one
 
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AndyB.

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Here’s a sending unit for an ‘85 2.8, 17 gallon side tank.

It’s worth pointing out that these have different failure modes. The float can leak, fill with gas, and sink. In this case you’ll always getting a reading of empty. The contacts in the resistor can wear through and give an irregular reading. Floats are replaceable without replacing the entire sending unit.
 

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choppers_rule

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I just took the sending unit out of the tank today with missing float, and the float is not in the tank. Weird.
It’s pretty rusted out, so I guess I need to get a new one.
 

choppers_rule

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Here’s a sending unit for an ‘85 2.8, 17 gallon side tank.

It’s worth pointing out that these have different failure modes. The float can leak, fill with gas, and sink. In this case you’ll always getting a reading of empty. The contacts in the resistor can wear through and give an irregular reading. Floats are replaceable without replacing the entire sending unit.
Andy,
I just notice that the sending unit I have has a straight tube, no bend. So, it’s different.
 

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RonD

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I don't recommend a ziplock bag with air in it, although it would work :)
 

choppers_rule

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I found one on eBay for $100 with missing float.

So, I bench tested it and it shows 69 ohms empty instead of 73 ohms.
How much of a difference between 69 ohms & 73 ohms on the gauge?
Thanks.
 

RonD

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Should be close enough unless you like to drive around with gauge below 1/8 of a tank
 

choppers_rule

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Thank you Ron & Andy for the help🙏.
Now I have to find the female pig tail connector for it, the one on the truck is rusted pretty bad & not showing power on the multimeter.
 

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There’s not going to be any noticeable difference due to the variance is resistance from spec. There is an instrument cluster voltage regulator you could dial in, to sync up E to empty.

My spare that I pictured earlier also measures at 69 ohms empty.
 

franklin2

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There’s not going to be any noticeable difference due to the variance is resistance from spec. There is an instrument cluster voltage regulator you could dial in, to sync up E to empty.

My spare that I pictured earlier also measures at 69 ohms empty.
I wouldn't do that. The gauge regulator affects all the gauges. Though what am I talking about? Guages that say "L NORMAL F". Ford gauges are a joke anyway.
 

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