Front Leaf question

[slammer67]

I had to add more leafs because the stock toyota springs i was using could not handle the weight of the ranger. I added one leaf, but I should have added one or two more.

yes, more leaves makes it stiffer, but the leafs have to hold up the weight of the truck also.

If those jeep springs are from a cj, theyre probably only 2" wide, which will make them really soft, width affects spring rate also. I'm not sure what the width of the f250 springs were, probably 2.5 or 3" - you can measure the width of the spring pads to see, so I don't know if that would interfere with u-bolts and plates or not.

I would hunt down some waggoneer springs if you're junk yard shopping, they should hold the weight without messing with adding leafs, should flex well. many people have used those for SAS's.

 

[CheapThrillB2]

http://therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34823

ran this set-up on my b2 for a year and now a few months on my explorer.

 

[slammer67]

just read your build thread, awesome.

you said you started out with ex rear springs and then switched to some stiffer ones - which ones?

explorer springs are the same length as our rear rangers, right?

 

[CheapThrillB2]

just read your build thread, awesome.

you said you started out with ex rear springs and then switched to some stiffer ones - which ones?

explorer springs are the same length as our rear rangers, right?

the first pack was explorer springs minus the overload, then i put the overload back in it.

their is a tech write up in the tech section on installing explorer rear springs in place of stock rangers springs to gain 2" of lift (in the rear)

 

[midget]

If its closed knuckle pass on that thing.

Well I went to pick up my axles today and come to find out the front was a closed knuckle ..... so after a fair bit of cussing Im back to square one.. I picked up the D60 rearend b/c it was in good shape yet so Im going to use it just need to find a front.

 

[alpinestar]

i would definitly go ahead and get those 2" wrangler springs if its not too late, you seen how mine flexes and it sits about as tall as you need it to. and i have a 6" shackle i believe. so it provides about 3" of lift there. and remember that when you do this you want the shackle in the rear. and get a D44 out of a waggy, their pretty easy to find.

 

[midget]

I got a D44 that I needed now will someone explain to me in moron why I want the shackle in the rear when damn near every production truck with leafs had the shackle in the front? I got the Wrangler springs just waiting for them to arrive. I was plannin on mounting the shackle on the front b/c of the production trucks and it would be easier with the way the front of the frame is. Although using leaf spring sliders would be something I have thought about as I have seen an sas Xterra use them with great success.

 

[alpinestar]

ok ok... having the shackle in the rear basically eliminates the problem of your axle fighting its self to flex. when your wheelin' you drive forward, atleast i hope you do.... and so when you come up to something like a rock or a log or a hill, whatever it is, it pushes back on your axle. when the shackle is in the front it must come forward and up in order for your leafs to flex, see where im goin? so by having them in the back they naturally move up and down like their suppose to and it really does make a difference. and if you want to use stock jeep cross over steering, having the shackles in the rear will make your leaf perches be shifted back alittle to correct teh caster and pinion angle from having your shackles in the rear which gives you more clearence over the steering between the drag link and the leaf spring pack...

hope that clears it up for ya.

 

[slammer67]

I agree that shackles in the rear is best. I did a "shackle reversal" on my landcruiser - switched the shackles from the front to the back - and it rode/offroaded much better.

I went with the shackle up front on my ranger's SAS for the simple reason that it's easyer to use the stock driveshaft.

If the shackle is in the rear, the axle moves backward when you hit a bump, like was mentioned, so you have to have some space in your slip joint of your driveshaft to allow for that, but when your axle droops, it moves away from the transfer case -
pulls the driveshaft apart - so you need a longer slip driveshaft for a rear shackled setup.

Granted, with my setup now - springs pretty much flat - it doesn't matter much, but when I get more lift and leaf springs with more arch, it'll have more of an effect. I do plan on switching the shakles to the rear eventually when I have more $ to deal with all the issues, but shackle foreward IMO is the cheapest way to go.

 

[alpinestar]

ya i didnt worry about the driveline issue since i have to get a longer one anyways. plus i need to get a cable hooked up to my axle since thats how my 4wd is engaged...

 

[midget]

Ahh ok and as for going forward on the trails.... well sometimes I try stupid stuff for fun. so who knows whats going to happen.

 

[alpinestar]

well generally speaking i hope your moving "forward" lol... isnt that what lifes all about haha...