Ford 2.3 turbo head information needed


turtle1hp

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I am preparing to start on a small turbo project and I am in search of information on the 87-88 Ford 2.3 Turbo Coupe cylinder head. I keep coming across conflicting information on different forums and websites.
1) What are the factory flow numbers for the intake and exhaust?
2) Does this head have Inconel exhaust valves from the factory?
3) Does it have flame hardened exhaust seats from the factory? If so, are these seats prone to cracks and need replacement?

Once I have this information, it will have an effect on the modifications I make to this head. I have plans to do port work to the head and I am trying to determine if I will “NEED” to go with larger valves on the intakes, or the exhausts, or both.
The next step will be to determine the cam profile for this build. I will consult with a cam company once I have determined my direction for the head.

If anyone is interested, here is what I am doing. I have a complete 2.3 intercooled turbo motor from a 1987 Ford Thunderbird Turbo Coupe. I have a 1998 Ford ranger with an automatic that will receive this engine. This will be a daily driver and used to run errands. My goals are to have factory type fuel economy with very quick spool time and lots of torque.

My plans on this build, are to enhance the airflow and efficiency of ALL the stock parts. This will include the porting and polishing of the turbo compressor and turbine housings, the exhaust manifold, the intake manifold and the cylinder head. I will be replacing the stock intercooler with a more efficient front mount intercooler and enlarging the exhaust system.
I will raise the stock compression to enhance “off boost” throttle response and torque. I will be zero decking the block to raise the compression ratio from the stock 8.0:1, to as high as I can get it. I would like to see 9.5:1 but I don’t think I will reach that with the stock turbo pistons.
The thought of raising compression goes against common practice with boosted motors, but raising compression has worked for me before, on a Ford Probe Turbo GT. It works if you can keep intake charge temperatures down. By lowering the intake charge temperature, you lower the risk of detonation. There are a couple of items in this combination that help this.
1) A more efficient intercooler lowers intake charge temperatures
2) Enhancing the flow restrictions, from the turbo all of the way to the combustion chamber, requires less boost pressures to make power. This lower boost pressure translates to lower intake charge temperatures
I am NOT looking for maximum horsepower with this combination. I just want good fuel economy with a good kick in the pants when I step on it. Later if I get “boost addiction”, I can add water/methanol injection and turn up the boost. LOL

I will be posting this same post on a couple of different sites, with the chance that I can reach more people that might have the correct information that I am looking for.

Thanks in advance for your help.
 


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poondobber

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There is quite a bit of information out there. I would suggest starting with these.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/4cylinders.html
http://stinger-performance.proboards.com/thread/4125/2-head-flow-comparison-chart
https://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2-3-mustangs/184170-look-what-i-found-thought-2-3-guys-would-like.html

The flow numbers are in the last two links. There is quite a bit difference from year to year on the flow numbers. The best flow coming from the later dual plug heads which is on your 98. Ive read pretty much all there is out there on these engines and the late model dual plug has the best flowing heads and intakes. However they will not fit on the older turbo engines. You will need to dig further for info on the valves but from what ive read the seats are typically replaced in a head rebuild.

Why not build the 98 motor? The reason being the OBD2 ECU on the 98 is easier to tune, the head/intake flows better to start, and the head already has the roller rockers the turbo guys swap in. Also the dual plug is supposed to be better for gas mileage and emissions. Lots of info out there on building the dual plug engines. You are half way there with the bottom end off the turbo engine.

For the head build there used to be a few companies out there that did great work but as far as I can tell Bo-port is the only one left. If you know if someone else that can do larger valves and a full port and polish for a cheaper price I would love to know.

Im planning on an NA build first but who knows. The frame may rust in half before that happens.
 

turtle1hp

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Where 2 or more are gathered, there shall be a RACE!
Thanks for the information links! I have not seen the modded Mustang link before now.

I have already done the research on getting the Turbo Coupe motor in the 98 chassis and using the OBDII system. This will be a daily driver. If later down the road I feel the need for more speed, I can build the 2.5 bottom end and put a larger turbo.

When I start the build I will post it to help share the information that I have acquired and new ways to do things with the results.

Thanks again for the info.
 

turtle1hp

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My credo
Where 2 or more are gathered, there shall be a RACE!
From what I am gathering, I will need to replace the exhaust seats. Because all of the 2.3 heads will eventually crack. Then I plan on porting the head myself. This will not be my first time to port heads. I have done countless small block Chevy heads. I have done BB Chevy, BB Ford, SB Ford the list goes on....

I read a post that turboray posted on Turboford site. It was a step by step account that Tim Ottinger did. It was quite informative on the areas to avoid because of water jacket placement.
 


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