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Finally have to pull the trans.

9723

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Cutting thru this 3/16" plate with the 13amp grinder is pretty easy. Didn't take but 3 minutes. I jacked the plate up to the transmission. It's not really to big. I was able to get it directly under the trans, even with the rear cross-member still there.



I see some potential problems with this setup.



Getting the hose clamps into the correct position and tightened down might be a quite problematic.
My little 1" ratchet straps might be better, but....the edges of these slots are sharp. At the very least I'd have to bend and place some flashing between the straps and the plate steel. Not not very wide slots.

When it comes to putting it back in, I'll probably jack it up there, but hang it from straps thru the shift tunel and wrestle it in. As long as something else is holding most of the weight, most of the time I can do that....for a few seconds at a time. I was also reading another thread where the guy put the cross-brace back in and that helped him get it lined up. I'll keep that in mind. I'm a ways from there.
 
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Shran

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You can wrap straps around the frame in a creative way and support the back of the trans there too... you don't necessarily have to go through the floor hole.

I would suggest using a ratchet strap(s) around the trans instead of those hose clamps. Just drill a couple big holes in the sides of your plate for the hooks to attach to. And you will want a couple blocks of wood or something on the sides of the trans to keep it from rolling since it's sort of V shaped on the bottom, it WILL want to roll on a flat jack surface.
 

9723

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You can wrap straps around the frame in a creative way and support the back of the trans there too... you don't necessarily have to go through the floor hole.

I would suggest using a ratchet strap(s) around the trans instead of those hose clamps. Just drill a couple big holes in the sides of your plate for the hooks to attach to. And you will want a couple blocks of wood or something on the sides of the trans to keep it from rolling since it's sort of V shaped on the bottom, it WILL want to roll on a flat jack surface.
Yes, I'd already planned on using 2x4 cut down some length at 45 degrees.. Probably straps and the jack, both.

Holes for eye-bolts? Something to consider. 1/4" eye bolts would be plenty strong enough. The straps I have are the ones that thread back into a slot in the ratchet...no hooks on them.
 
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9723

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I think this is going to work. I put two sets of eye-bolts toward the front of the plate/trans area because I don't know if I can put a strap in front of the shifter, or not. ...still have to cut the wood blocks and I've got padding.

 

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Nice, looks like it'll work!
 

9723

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Last time pulled trans, removed the shifter boot and mini console around it. Placed a longer piece of angle iron across the top of the tunnel and attached ratchet straps to it. The straps cradled the trans while and made it pretty easy to raise and lower without a jack
You were right about this. 4 screws in the mini-console and the boot comes out, but what is underneath is different than any info in the book or elsewhere. No screws anywhere and I'd like to remove the inner cover. I don't think the bottom of the shifter will come thru this hole redily. All I see is the metal tabs (circled). I don't want to tear them up prying on them. Anybody know how this comes out? The other holes top and bottom are where the mini-console screw go into.

 

RobbieD

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Loosen and remove the nut you see on the threaded rod. Thread the removed nut onto the other side and tighten it down. That pulls out a wedge cleverly disguised as that threaded rod, and the shifter will pull right off, leaving a short stub on the transmission. Reinstallation will be the reverse of this procedure.

When you drop the trans, it will pull clear from the rubber cover. The rubber stays with the truck floor.
 

9723

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Loosen and remove the nut you see on the threaded rod. Thread the removed nut onto the other side and tighten it down. That pulls out a wedge cleverly disguised as that threaded rod, and the shifter will pull right off, leaving a short stub on the transmission. Reinstallation will be the reverse of this procedure.

When you drop the trans, it will pull clear from the rubber cover. The rubber stays with the truck floor.
Interesting. The book says nothing about these details....you've saved me some aggravation.

I appreciate it.
 

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Not every truck has that rubber piece, especially if someone has pulled the trans before and left it out. It's stapled to the floor plate below it. Older trucks had a big piece of foam instead of the rubber deal.

You may find that the floor plate and rubber piece get in the way while putting the trans back in. Usually it's no problem taking the trans out. Maybe you'll have no issues with it, 4 cylinder trucks have a lot more room to work with and no Y pipe in the exhaust to fight.
 

9723

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You may find that the floor plate and rubber piece get in the way while putting the trans back in.....
Yes, this is my exact concern...even could be in the way while pulling the trans backwards...out of the pressure plate, or reinstalling the shifter............etc, etc.

I may see what it takes to remove it and consider that.
 

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You can pull the staples out and use some sheet metal screws to reattach it afterwards. I always have trouble with getting the trans back in while fighting the floor plate by itself, I find it's helpful to remove at least the front two bolts that hold the floor plate on under the carpet so that you have some wiggle room... but like I said I am usually working on V6 trucks where I have to fight the exhaust.
 

RobbieD

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I don't remember having any trouble like that, but I can see it happening. I've always pulled the Y-pipe on my V-6's, plus I lower the trans and let the engine rest back on boards on the firewall (unbolt the fan shroud if you try it that way). So basically I'm doing the pull and the stab back in at somewhat of an angle. And on at least one of my R&R's the floor plate was removed, though.

You're making good progress.
 

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I just caught this thread, looks like you're well underway. When I pulled mine I used an ATV lift and made a 'cradle' from scrap lumber to prevent rolling off and secured with ratchet straps. Looks like you've got that part. I have the TK transmission and the pan is at an angle compared to the engine; not sure what the bottom of the M5OD looks like.

When I put it back I wrestled quite a bit with it to get the input shaft to slide into the engine's crankshaft. It was a PITA. When I had to do the clutch in the F250 it was a much larger, heavier transmission and it would have won the wrestling match. I found a post somewhere on the Oilburners forum about making alignment dowels out of bolts. I got some long ones from the hardware store and cut the heads of, then chamfered them a bit. The trans slid right into place, then I put it in a high gear and was able to turn the output shaft until it slid into the crank. It worked very well. Something like that may save you some frustration when you put the transmission back in.
 

9723

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I don't remember having any trouble like that, but I can see it happening. I've always pulled the Y-pipe on my V-6's, plus I lower the trans and let the engine rest back on boards on the firewall (unbolt the fan shroud if you try it that way). So basically I'm doing the pull and the stab back in at somewhat of an angle.
I think this would be too difficult for me. The work injuries I had during my career.....now in retirement, I have to be careful.


You can pull the staples out and use some sheet metal screws to reattach it afterwards. I always have trouble with getting the trans back in while fighting the floor plate by itself, I find it's helpful to remove at least the front two bolts that hold the floor plate on under the carpet so that you have some wiggle room......
Yeah, I was thinking the same thing, but the floor plate. Where are those screws. I doubt that's in my manual....anywhere.
 

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Where are those screws. I doubt that's in my manual....anywhere.
The floor plate screws are under the carpet, and you can't really get to them with the carpet in place. You can remove a seat (passenger is usually easier) and the step plate, and then fold the carpet back enough to get the floor plate out. The carpet should just pull out from under the kick panel trim.
 

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