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Finally have to pull the trans.

600$04Ranger

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Last time pulled trans, removed the shifter boot and mini console around it. Placed a longer piece of angle iron across the top of the tunnel and attached ratchet straps to it. The straps cradled the trans while and made it pretty easy to raise and lower without a jack
Reminded me of a simple strategy I used when pulling my motor. Used a length of 1" webbing anchored somewhere above each front wheel (or possibly tied to an opening on the rim between hub and tire), and passed webbing underneath front of bell housing just behind bolts. Kept trans in place until I was ready to move my floor jack with homemade cradle in place. Your floor jack cradle looks great. Mine was a wobbly piece of shit that I hastily made but still better than nothing, barely. You got this!
 

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9723

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Last time pulled trans, removed the shifter boot and mini console around it. Placed a longer piece of angle iron across the top of the tunnel and attached ratchet straps to it. The straps cradled the trans while and made it pretty easy to raise and lower without a jack
Interesting idea. I'll look at that, but I still want my jack under it. My console stops further forward...not in the way. I have lots of ratchet straps but they don't unratchet very well...just come loose.
 
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9723

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You're doing good. Just keep plugging away, and don't get discouraged.

Glad to see that you've made an adapter for the jack; it'll definitely help.

While the transmission is out, check for the 3 rubber plugs on the back of the shifter tower. If yours still has the rubber plugs (or if they're missing) it'd be a great time to to put freeze plugs there (a common failure point and fix).

Good luck!
Yeah, I ordered those back when I got everything else, but mine are steel, or the ones I ordered are. ....one of the reasons I'm really slow, I do a lot of research. A couple years ago I put a performance engine and transmission in my Acura...haha, I think I did 5-6 hours of research for every hour of hands on work. It went very well (took 3 months, even with an engine hoist), but this is very different.
 
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9723

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I appreciate the feedback and suggestions from people that've done this. It helps a lot!
 
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9723

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I went after the electircal connections this morning. I hate these connectors because I've broken many. Not today. I got all of them without breaking any.

Where the loom mounts on the trans is also no fun at all. I got them pushed out except for the one at the back that holds the 2nd O2 sensor connector. It's bolted to the trans via a real flimzy piece of metal and I couldn't get the plastic push tabs out for nothing. Not an easy place to get to either. So instead I ended up undoing the bolt that holds that flimzy piece of metal to the trans.



I'm glad I have lots of tools. A stubby is necessary, tho I broke it loose with a typical length combo wrench. 12mm. That bolt is quite long (inch and half at least), it must do something besides hold that metal on, so I snugged it back down.

When I purchased the slave/throw-out bearing, there was a little line that said, "recommended tools". So I have one of these too.



I got stuck on the 1st, front O2 sensor. I changed the cat a couple years ago and had no anti-sieze so I didn't use any. Now I'm paying the price. I've got it about half way out....PB Blaster, tapping, more PB, etc. I've found over the years, when you're really stuck on something, most of the time it's best to walk away for a while....good thing to let the PB Blaster work over night anyway.

When I purchased this Ranger in 2001, the first thing I did was install a K&N cold air intake (really a short ram), put in two Accell Super Coils (mine has 8 spark-plugs), and install the Magnaflow "high flow" cat. So after 18 years I installed the second one....2-3 years ago. Anything you can do to help this little gutless 2.3L (97 LbFt?) is a good idea. These things (above) did help it run better....and the smaller tires too. All helped going up the big hills as long as you keep the rpms up somewhat.
 
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pwrshft99

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I struggle with anything 'quick connect'. Maybe you have more patience than me but i unbolted the reservoir from the fender, untwisted the slave then pulled it thru fire wall, then pull the whole thing out with the transmission.
 

9723

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I struggle with anything 'quick connect'. Maybe you have more patience than me but i unbolted the reservoir from the fender, untwisted the slave then pulled it thru fire wall, then pull the whole thing out with the transmission.
Yeah, I might have to, but I'd prefer to have everything disconnected from the trans, considering it's my first time. I'll find out. Otherwise I'm not particularly patient, unless I really think I have to be. Then I get very diligent.

At the moment, I don't even know how to get to the slave. I just know there's a rubber access port.
 

9723

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Cross-threaded? Really?



This is the forward co2 sensor. It has to be removed to pull the trans....without problems.
It looks cross-threaded to me, and was seized so a lot of pressure to undo. I've never seen anything cross thread on the way out, that I can remember. It wasn't leaking, worked fine. So what, now I have to remove my cat section and throw it away....after installing it only 2 years ago?

....bumber!
 

Shran

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Just run a tap through the O2 bung... probably a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole piece.

Those clutch line disconnect tools suck. I always use a little flat screwdriver to work the release collar down into the fitting.
 

9723

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Just run a tap through the O2 bung... probably a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the whole piece.

Those clutch line disconnect tools suck. I always use a little flat screwdriver to work the release collar down into the fitting.
I got the sensor out. Sure was hard for just a 1/4" of thread.

Now I'm after the slave line. I don't even see how the tool fits on the line. Release collar? Is it one of those you have to push inward to release. I have no idea how it works....can't even see a release collar. I'll look closer.
 

9723

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Ok, I moved the white plastic sleeve out of the way and I see a groove going around the fitting. The generic line tool I purchased does NOT fit that groove. Ford has a tool number, but I'm not inclinded to order one and wait 10 days for it to get here.



I can only guess how this fitting works or is removed. Can someone explain? I guess I should relieve the hydraulic fluid by loosening the bleeder first. Push or twist toward the trans....then pull the line?

Thanks
 

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You have to push the white plastic ring inwards towards the slave cylinder. It allows the spring clip (which you can't see) to release and allow the hose to be pulled out.
 

RobbieD

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The open forks of the tool that you purchased and pictured should fit around the brass colored metal part of the fitting, and allow you to depress the white plastic ring by pushing the tool inward toward the transmission. It usually takes a little wiggling and a lot of patience . . .
 

9723

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You have to push the white plastic ring inwards towards the slave cylinder. It allows the spring clip (which you can't see) to release and allow the hose to be pulled out.
The open forks of the tool that you purchased and pictured should fit around the brass colored metal part of the fitting, and allow you to depress the white plastic ring by pushing the tool inward toward the transmission. It usually takes a little wiggling and a lot of patience . . .
Thanks, I appreciate the explanation. It's is similar to a Ford fuel line, in that the sleeve depresses jaws or fingers that hold it together. Mine seems to need to be pushed a little further in than flush. I find a screwdriver works where the tool won't. Still difficult. I've got it a little out, it started leaking. Yes, patience. A flaw of mine, so I call on my diligence. Which I do have. It'll take a little time.

Thanks for the info!
 
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9723

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Yeah, I think it was loose when it started leaking. I just had to wiggle it a little more. A small to medium screwdriver worked better for me....'course this trans hasn't ever been removed, or had anything done to it. So everything's been attached for 20 years.

Thanks for the close guidance.

Everything is disconnected from the trans, except the shifter. I'll finish my jack adapter and get after it.
 
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