Engine starts only when starter fluid sprayed in intake manifold

[NIGERIAN RANGER]

I have been having issues of prolonged startability with my engine recently. I realized that before the engine starts, I'd have to spray starter fluid into the intake manifold, before the truck starts. And each time it starts, and runs, it idles smoothly. But immediately the engine is turned off, starting the engine immediately, would be a problem. Engine cranks for a long time, and acts as though it wants to start. When the starter fluid or gasoline is sprayed into the intake manifold, it starts.

I'm thinking, this could be a fuel pressure loss related problem, since it's appearing as if there's insufficient fuel supply at the rails, needed to crank the engine. But the surprising thing is that, immediately the engine starts running, after priming with starter fluid, it idles no matter how long, without shutting down or whatsoever, until i shut ut down.

There also is some kind of bucking or so, under heavy acceleration, but ceases, during light loads.

This has happened to me once, where the the suction fuel hose on the fuel pump had ruptured, causing fuel pressure losses.

This time around, I'm looking at getting another pump to try it out.

 

[bobbywalter]

Gasoline or diesel engine?

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Gas or diesel....change the fuel filter before springing for a pump

 

[Eddo Rogue]

Maybe check fuel pressure before throwing parts at. I agree change the fuel filter. Besides that it could be fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and/or injectors.

 

[Jim Oaks]

Engine size?

 

[NIGERIAN RANGER]

Engine size?

3.0l

 

[mc17eln]

I was gonna say, "rent a fuel pressure tool kit from your local auto part store." Then I saw your location. Does Nigeria auto part store rents out tools for free like here in the U.S.? @NIGERIAN RANGER

Btw, the test valve is the one on the fuel rail with a black plastic plug.

 

[NIGERIAN RANGER]

I was gonna say, "rent a fuel pressure tool kit from your local auto part store." Then I saw your location. Does Nigeria auto part store rents out tools for free like here in the U.S.? @NIGERIAN RANGER

Btw, the test valve is the one on the fuel rail with a black plastic plug.

Nooo, they don't. Infact, we got lots of tree shade mechanics places cos of cost of dealership services.

 

[NIGERIAN RANGER]

I'm considering, replacing the fuel pump in that truck, cos it's gone bad. Is it possible, to modify the pump to an external one(getting a different pump, and modifying it to work outside of the tank?
I just wondered, why would Ford, have the fuel pump positioned under the truck bed. This means at every pump failures, the bed has to be removed or lifted.

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I'm considering, replacing the fuel pump in that truck, cos it's gone bad. Is it possible, to modify the pump to an external one(getting a different pump, and modifying it to work outside of the tank?
I just wondered, why would Ford, have the fuel pump positioned under the truck bed. This means at every pump failures, the bed has to be removed or lifted.

Removing bed is not that bad or heavy, it is just big. Or you can drop the tank, but that is more struggle in my opinion. You could cut a flap in the bed and screw down some piano hinge for access.

 

[mc17eln]

If I am that tree shade mechanic, I will hoist the truck bed up the tree branches with a few nylon ropes. Piece of cake.

 

[Roert42]

I'm considering, replacing the fuel pump in that truck, cos it's gone bad. Is it possible, to modify the pump to an external one(getting a different pump, and modifying it to work outside of the tank?
I just wondered, why would Ford, have the fuel pump positioned under the truck bed. This means at every pump failures, the bed has to be removed or lifted.

The single high pressure fuel pump is mounted in the tank because it’s not so good at sucking, better at pushing. The older trucks had a setup with a low pressure ( to suck out of the tank) ,and high pressure pump. Plus, the pump being submerged in gasoline keeps it cool.

 

[NIGERIAN RANGER]

Removing bed is not that bad or heavy, it is just big. Or you can drop the tank, but that is more struggle in my opinion. You could cut a flap in the bed and screw down some piano hinge for access.

Dropping the tank would seems to involve removing the propeller shaft too, cause it's on the way of the tank. I wished the tank was made easily removal like the Asian trucks.

 

[Blmpkn]

Dropping the tank would seems to involve removing the propeller shaft too, cause it's on the way of the tank. I wished the tank was made easily removal like the Asian trucks.

Removing the driveshaft is as simple as removing a small handful of bolts. Nothing serious at all.

 

[mc17eln]

Removing the driveshaft is as simple as removing a small handful of bolts.

Those 4 bolts securing the driveshaft to the rear differential is the only parts that I was not able to torque to spec, because I don't have a lift:

1. I can't raise the truck much even with my small jack stands, because I need to tire on the ground to counter the movement of the differential when tightening those bolts.
2. There is not enough room to use a 3/8" torque wrench while laying on my back.
3. The 4 bolts on my 2004 Range are 12-point bolts -- cannot use 6-point impact socket and gun.
4. I tried a thin wall 12-point 3/8" socket plus a wobble head extension, but the extension made it difficult to apply force to the torque wrench.
5. I was only able to hand tighten the bolts with a 12-point box wrench with a steal tube as extension. Again, the low height made it tough to apply force to the tube, and the tires will start to give way too.

If I have a helper with a long crowbar, I may be able to use the 3/8" torque wrench by raising the truck on jack stands as high as possible.