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Driveline Fitment


Maui-sprint

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Wow. Great pics. They really show a lot of what you have to deal with. I notice the front driveshaft is also offset more to the outside as well. I see now how moving the motor/trans about an inch to the passenger side would help too. You could probably shave that outer boss off (halfway thru the peg) without any problems. Although its tough to see the area we're talking about in the second to last pic...
 


1984RESTOMOD

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Wow. Great pics. They really show a lot of what you have to deal with. I notice the front driveshaft is also offset more to the outside as well. I see now how moving the motor/trans about an inch to the passenger side would help too. You could probably shave that outer boss off (halfway thru the peg) without any problems. Although its tough to see the area we're talking about in the second to last pic...
Yes quite the set up for a truck that was 2800 gvwr factory - nevertheless it’s been done before behind a 302 and 4bt in these chassis’(ZF5 to BW1356). The 4bt was heavily modified around the engine cradle for pan clearance and motor mounts. I’d be interested to see what others on this forum have to say about reinforcing the frame around the area I notched as well as general opinion.
 

1984RESTOMOD

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Although its tough to see the area we're talking about
3E6E10A4-F919-42D2-861B-122554BF3ECF.jpeg

From rear
2F9D37D4-B52F-4864-BC80-A2D200ABE30D.jpeg
FB1C2907-16FA-4FBC-AF75-3FF7463B9E30.jpeg

camera held at rough center of front diff yoke looking back at tcase (better idea of drive shaft angle/room)
 
Last edited:

franklin2

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Yes quite the set up for a truck that was 2800 gvwr factory - nevertheless it’s been done before behind a 302 and 4bt in these chassis’(ZF5 to BW1356). The 4bt was heavily modified around the engine cradle for pan clearance and motor mounts. I’d be interested to see what others on this forum have to say about reinforcing the frame around the area I notched as well as general opinion.
All the strength in the frame for holding weight is in that small top and bottom piece. I did a little research several years ago on truck frames, they are modified and added to frequently in the big truck world. Mack, Kenworth, etc all have recommendations, and they all say stay away from the top and bottom of the frame.

But you do what you have to do. Guys "c-notch" the rear frames all the time on the bottom. But they put in a heavy piece of steel and fully weld it in place. I do not see why you could not do the same, except you will be up in "mid air" above the frame. I think I would use a piece of angle iron, and modify it so you would have a vertical "side" to your metal bridge. That way you could weld it on the ends at the top of the "C" of the frame, and also stitch on the upper corner of the "C" of the frame or the vertical side of the frame.
 

1984RESTOMOD

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I think I would use a piece of angle iron, and modify it so you would have a vertical "side" to your metal bridge. That way you could weld it on the ends at the top of the "C" of the frame, and also stitch on the upper corner of the "C" of the frame or the vertical side of the frame.
84698F71-2F3F-4BAB-9555-62C4FC0ED5A9.jpeg

Something like this? The piece of angle is highlighted orange
 

Maui-sprint

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How far does the TC need to move (toward passenger side) to eliminate all interference? Have you considered that option?
Looking at the pics I'm not seeing how clocking it would help. It appears that clocking would bring the outer point of the TC closer to the upper flange of the frame...
 

1984RESTOMOD

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How far does the TC need to move (toward passenger side) to eliminate all interference? Have you considered that option?
Looking at the pics I'm not seeing how clocking it would help. It appears that clocking would bring the outer point of the TC closer to the upper flange of the frame...
I have considered; if I'm correct it involves moving trans and motor/mounts with it as well: move the passenger mount up the cradle and adding spacer(s) to the driver side mount as well as drilling a new hole on both sides. Doable and this may have to end up happening depending on clearance of PS pump on the steering gear. I started assembling my serpentine bracketry and accessories yesterday so if all clears I will probably shave off the the locating boss to clear and weld in a vertical wall with angle as franklin2 displayed above. Will update as build progresses. Thanks all!
 
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1984RESTOMOD

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I started out wanting to do a 208, the fitment bothered me greatly so I opted for a NP205 instead.



Do watch your front driveshaft clearance especially when you are clocking it. You can run into exhaust clearance issues very fast, especially with a D35 and factory springs (pinion is higher than a D28)

I used a factory '95 Ranger front driveshaft, the flex boot ended up right where the exhaust came down. A older style with just a seal would fit better (I had a rear driveshaft from a bullnose Bronco that would have been better but I gave it away before I knew I needed it)
 
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1984RESTOMOD

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I started out wanting to do a 208, the fitment bothered me greatly so I opted for a NP205 instead.



Do watch your front driveshaft clearance especially when you are clocking it. You can run into exhaust clearance issues very fast, especially with a D35 and factory springs (pinion is higher than a D28)

I used a factory '95 Ranger front driveshaft, the flex boot ended up right where the exhaust came down. A older style with just a seal would fit better (I had a rear driveshaft from a bullnose Bronco that would have been better but I gave it away before I knew I needed it)
How much vertical travel should i expect form the drivers side d35 beam?
 

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Wow... that would be a hard pass for me on that t-case. I wonder if a 208 would fit better? I went with a 205 for the same reason, frame clearance. You have to be OK with a clunky, noisy gear driven t-case though in that case.
 

1984RESTOMOD

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Wow... that would be a hard pass for me on that t-case. I wonder if a 208 would fit better? I went with a 205 for the same reason, frame clearance. You have to be OK with a clunky, noisy gear driven t-case though in that case.
whats a smaller chain driven option
 

Shran

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How much vertical travel should i expect form the drivers side d35 beam?
That depends on a lot of things, when I had a TTB axle with a 6" Skyjacker lift and extended radius arms, I could flex out the front suspension enough that the spring would just fall out. Stock radius arms would limit it... a good test would be to bolt a driveshaft to the front axle (not necessarily to the t-case) and remove the coil spring, but leave the shock in place and push the axle beam down as far as it can go - the shock should be what stops it. I say remove the coil spring because you can move the suspension freely without it in place and easily judge where everything ends up throughout the suspension travel.

whats a smaller chain driven option
NP208... there may be others out there that you can use with adapters. The most common full size t-cases are the 203, 205, 208, and 1356.

Full size Bronco from '80 on would have 208's with fixed yokes, pickups have 208's as well but are slip yoke rear.
 

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