2.3L ('02-'11) dead 2011 ranger

[rover56]

Hey folks,
Went out to my Ranger last week, turned the key and dash lights flashed on, and heard one "click", then everything went dead. Currently have no dash lights,,head,or tailights, nada. Checked battery first and though in its last quarter of its life, it still holds full charge. Then checked the following fuses in the engine compartment box, (#7-starter solenoid, #9-ignition switch, #11-PCM relay #21-PCM-keep alive power, #39-Pcm power, #44-ignition coil and #48 starter relay. Then went to fuses in the kick panel I thought were related to starting. #10-cluster(run/start), #21-starter relay coil and #33-Instrument cluster battery feed. Positive battery cable clamp was pretty corroded so tried to find new replacement harness section, but thats not available new, so ordered a splice repair kit, installed it, made no difference. Ordered a OBD2, plugged it in and it showed power with key off. Turned key on and power died. Was thinking it may be a bad/broken ground somewhere, now thinking it may be in the ignition switch. But why no headlights, dash,etc? Electricity is not my best skill set, just learning to use multimeter, could use some direction from those that wrangle these rangers. Appreciate any input.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

If the battery positive was corroded. The battery negative is most likely corroded as well.
Having one click like you describe is a symptom of a loose connection on one of the main battery cables.

 

[RonD]

+1 ^^^^

Electricity needs a circuit, a circle, so the amps/watts can flow to and thru devices then back to power source(battery)
In vehicles this means the positive and negative wires need to be able to carry the same amps as required by the devices you want to power

If the positive wire can carry 100amps, but the negative wire only 1 amp then 1 amp is the limit for that "circle"/circuit

From your description it reads like you have a corroded main power connection
It can pass a few amps, but if you try to pass more amps(key on) the corroded connection heats up and cuts off all amps, so no power
"power" is positive OR negative, not just positive

As said negative battery connection needs to carry same amps as positive
Clean that terminal then clean it at the engine end, then check the Ground strap between engine and firewall(main cab ground)

Positive battery terminal should have a smaller wire that goes to the engine bay fuse box, this powers everything except the starter motor(when activated only), so make sure its clean, alternator also connects to the fuse box at same location

 

[rover56]

Thanks for the help, I will double check the ground side all the way through its connections, the terminal end has no corrosion at all at the battery post, but I will check the wires and ground connections, and let the group know. The positive side I just cut the wires and got to clean wires and installed a splice kit, but need to follow up on the connections. Appreciate the tips.

 

[rusty ol ranger]

Classic bad battery ground symptoms

 

[rover56]

Classic bad battery ground symptoms

Thanks, seems to be the consensus. This may take a few days to check out since the truck is sitting in "feels like" 106 temp, too hot for this old man to work in. Working from 7 to 9 PM. Will let everyone know what I find.

 

[superj]

i understand. here in corpus christi, its the same

 

[rover56]

Thanks to all who provided their expertise in helping solve my no start situatiion. I cleaned all the grounds I could get at, made sure the wires were in good shape, and that soved the issue. Covered all grounds with 100% silicone grease.