Dans 94, RCSB, 4.0, 4x4, 5spd

[DRanger024]

It was definitely pulling and bouncing side to side, no sway bars whatsoever front or rear probably has a bit to do with that. But suspension wise it feels very predictable and smooth. I got on the brakes fairly hard at one point and their effectiveness actually surprised me. You plan to drive yours with the SAS fast?

I think a good part of my steering funk is that the column is still definitely not right. It’s creaking and groaning as much as ever and it still has this weird thing that happens while turning right after just turning left. It’s like it hits a small wall and then breaks through suddenly. Not something I want to keep around, it gives me some mild heart attacks cruising on the road at speed because it only seems to take a 15* turn to the left to reset this issue.

Definitely not driving it that fast in the dirt with a solid axle. The dang cab would probably fall off. (Kidding of course)

The columns in these things are fairly easy to pull out. Can you find lower mileage trucks in a junk yard down there?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Definitely not driving it that fast in the dirt with a solid axle. The dang cab would probably fall off. (Kidding of course)

The columns in these things are fairly easy to pull out. Can you find lower mileage trucks in a junk yard down there?

There are some fast Solid axle setups these days! But I feel ya about the rust I have a few small spots to address but more so I worry about something not being tightened taking flight.

This is the lowest mile 93-97 I’ve seen in a long time, just rolled over 25k on the dash……..

I’m gonna wait for the second bearing and OEM wheel to come in, if none of that helps I’ll consider pulling it and investigating further while also swapping to a tilt column

 

[Dantheman1540]

Man these wheel bearings/lock nut system are aggravating. I decided to pull the bearings to inspect since last night I submerged them for extended periods of time and many many times. I found the locking hub seal failed and filled with sandy water, but none seems to have made it to the bearings.

Upon reinstalling I had one of the locking tab washer jump the spindle grove and upon removing it, it sheared the stupid pin in the bearing nut. So I grabbed my spare and it also jumped the spindle groove. I want to disclaimer this was just using hand tools, a 12” long 1/2” ratchet was all I was using to torque down the other nut when these jumped the spindle.

I think I’m gonna order the stuff to do this overkill mod from the tech section. Also gonna use rtv from now on to seal the hubs to the rotor.

https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/blackbiis-dana-35-ttb-spindle-lock-nut-mod/

 

[Dantheman1540]

Never mind screw the DIY method, not sure why these were 5 links down when I googled a solution they look perfect.

D35/44 Spindle Nuts- PAIR

Blitzkrieg Motorsports is proud to release the Dana 35/44 spindle lock nut. Highlights: CNC machined from 4140 bar stock Tightened using stock dana 44 nut tool Fits: D35, D44, 10 Bolt axles, Ford TTB Utilizes proven thread-pinching design Black oxide finish, Hardware included Can still be...

blitzkriegoffroad.com

 

[sgtsandman]

Definitely not driving it that fast in the dirt with a solid axle. The dang cab would probably fall off. (Kidding of course)

The columns in these things are fairly easy to pull out. Can you find lower mileage trucks in a junk yard down there?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Leafs are for trees! And jeeps are for *******

 

[Dantheman1540]

Not gonna lie getting frustrated at this thing. Got the blitzkrieg nuts in and realized there’s no instructions in the box or online. Found an old TRS post saying they spoke to Blitz and were told the new lock nuts only replace the outer portion of the factory combo which doesn’t solve my problem of the key jumping the key way. So I probably installed them wrong but idc and I used two of the blitz nuts in each spindle and tightened the Allen bolts the best I could with a small hand Allen key because my socket key in that size is MIA.

Got the passenger side done and moved to the driver where everything went together great until I realized the axle stub was not able to be pulled out far enough to get the thrust washer and C clip installed. That’s when I noticed the U joint missing a cap . So it’s going to a shop in the morning because I really really don’t want to pull that shaft and don’t have time for a few weeks anyway. Still not sure why I cannot seem to get more of the axle stub to pull out, I’m just assuming it U joint related.

 

[SenorNoob]

I wouldn't think a missing cap would cause it be harder to pull out. Unless the cross is bent. Suppose that's possible. I do remember a round getting the right seals to put mine together originally though. I'm about to try it again...

 

[Dantheman1540]

I wouldn't think a missing cap would cause it be harder to pull out. Unless the cross is bent. Suppose that's possible. I do remember a round getting the right seals to put mine together originally though. I'm about to try it again...

Well I picked it up today and the u joint was replaced. Not sure if they got the thrust washer on or not, I forgot to ask. If that’s not it I’m not sure what is have to do to get the shaft further out. I bought new sets of the updated thrust washer system which should be here this week so I’ll dig into it Monday.

The TTB system isn’t that bad to assemble/disassemble if you did the c clip eliminator. But u joints suck to do if your bad at them like I obviously am lol

 

[SenorNoob]

I know it's possible to do u-joints by other means, but it's so much easier with the press that it's silly.

For me the hardest thing is getting the spindle back on the passenger side. That Echo spring is stronger than it looks.

 

[Dantheman1540]

Ran out of gas today for the first time since I was 16 in my first ranger. I knew I was low but I genuinely thought there was a fuel light that would pop on. I also did realize that the needle stop at E, it doesn’t go far past the end of the gauge like it does when it’s full. So I pulled off the highway heading to a station and it died on me. Got it going again and limped slowest the half mile to the station and made it to the pump. Then the pump wasn’t working so I had to start it and go to another which it let me give it about 2 seconds of gas before dying again. Somehow I fit 16.9gal in a 16.3 gal tank so it was definitely empty. I’m a tad disappointed the MPG seems to keep dropping, down to 13.2 now and that’s corrected for tire size.

 

[Dantheman1540]

I think the expensive Blitzkreig lock nuts fixed my bearing issue! Also the new U joint seems to have fixed the thrust washer not going on problem. I was able to get the thrust washer upgrade kit from Bronco Graveyard in on both sides. I like the triple washer setup with the soft washer in the middle to eliminate metal on metal issues. Hopefully it will stay good because I think I’m gonna take it out exploring tomorrow!

 

[Dantheman1540]

Another good trip in the books, don’t believe anything broke either. However the slight overheating at speeds above 55mph is definitely still there. If I drop down to 50mph/2krpm it’s fine, but 60mph/2.5krpm and it gets warm fairly quickly. I experimented with turning the Efan off at speeds and that seemed to make it worse.

Oh well, the front locker is working awesome! If I wasn’t wheelin solo I would have tried a few obstacles in the clay mine that look to be made by SxSs. I also really really want that manual T case swap from Behemoth, that will probably be the next major mod.

 

[sgtsandman]

Another good trip in the books, don’t believe anything broke either. However the slight overheating at speeds above 55mph is definitely still there. If I drop down to 50mph/2krpm it’s fine, but 60mph/2.5krpm and it gets warm fairly quickly. I experimented with turning the Efan off at speeds and that seemed to make it worse.

Oh well, the front locker is working awesome! If I wasn’t wheelin solo I would have tried a few obstacles in the clay mine that look to be made by SxSs. I also really really want that manual T case swap from Behemoth, that will probably be the next major mod.

Perhaps an oil cooler might help?

 

[Dantheman1540]

Perhaps an oil cooler might help?

That’s something someone else suggested too, I just have a hard time imagining that 500rpm difference and no extra load is causing that much heat in the oil. I’m thinking the water pump is struggling to keep up although it’s new, or there’s junk blocking some passage somewhere. I’ve seen some pretty good sized Frosted Flakes come out when I’ve flushed stuff.