Couple ?s before I replace pinion seal.

[sickwilly]

I have a rear pinion seal that’s been leaking for a while now and I have some free time and I need to fix this sucker. Ive been topping it off every 6 months or so and it never takes more than few ounces but lately its started slinging oil so it needs to get done. The vent tube was stopped up, im assuming this caused the leak. AFAIK, the bearings are fine so my intention is to just replace the seal. I just want to ask a few questions before I start unbolting stuff and get hung up on some small thing. I’d rather not have to make 6 trips to town or have to order something once i have it apart. It’s the little things that always hang ya up.

OK, the plan is mark the flanges, pinion, and nut ; replace seal and put it all back just like it was. Im not planning to replace the crush washer or nut.

1. How hard is the pinion nut to get off. Will a a 24” breaker bar break it loose. If I bought an impact now, it would be a $50 from HD. And those may not be worth a crap. (actually if it would do the job, I would buy one. I don’t know what’s cheap about cheap impacts). The nut is 1 1/16 right? Does it have to be a deepwell? I gotta buy one.
2. Pinion flange holder. Sticking a punch, screwdriver , whatever through an unused hole would work I guess. For some reason I worry about cracking the housing, IDK why. Thought about 2-3 ft piece of 1/4” flatbar with 2 holes drilled in it. Again, I don’t know how tight the nut is.
3. Do I need a puller to get the flange off or can it be tapped off with a small sledgehammer. “Tapped” being the key word.

I’m just trying to keep from buying $100 worth of stuff just to do the job. This is the Ranger in my sig btw.

 

[SenorNoob]

As for getting it back on correctly, I can't be much help there.

Getting it off is not bad at all as long as tires are on the ground or parking brake works. I used a 18" breaker bar on mine. I don't think you'll need a deepwell, but if you do; it's likely cheaper to buy a whole set of them at harbor freight than the 1 elsewhere.

 

[19Walt93]

Marking the nut won't do it. Once the driveshaft is off turn the pinion by had and feel the drag in both directions. When you tighten it back up you want to feel very slightly more drag. It's better to have it slightly too tight than slightly too loose, it needs preload. Mark the driveshaft position relative to the companion flange/pinion yoke and put it back in the same spot. Carefully inspect the seal surface on the flange for scoring, the seal will cut into the flange over time and you may be able to polish the score line enough to allow the new seal to do it's job.

 

[sickwilly]

Marking the nut won't do it. Once the driveshaft is off turn the pinion by had and feel the drag in both directions. When you tighten it back up you want to feel very slightly more drag. It's better to have it slightly too tight than slightly too loose, it needs preload. Mark the driveshaft position relative to the companion flange/pinion yoke and put it back in the same spot. Carefully inspect the seal surface on the flange for scoring, the seal will cut into the flange over time and you may be able to polish the score line enough to allow the new seal to do it's job.

 

[sickwilly]

I can get a speedy sleeve locally if i need it. But for $48, hope I don’t need it. I know someone who may have an in/lb torque wrench i can borrow to check drag before and after.

 

[19Walt93]

You'll want a beam type torque wrench to measure the rotating preload, not the breakaway torque. After all these years I just judge it by feel but you're wise to measure it if it's your first one.

 

[sickwilly]

Can you even rotate the flange far enough to get a reading. I mean, not a lot of room under there. Can it be done without takinG the carrier out. Think I’ve read your supposed to do that.
Ok, i have a friend with a 1/2” impact i can borrow, so i don’t need a flange holder i guess. So I got that going for me.

 

[pjtoledo]

a cheap tool for removing the big nut

you can polish the seal area on the yolk with a wide shoe lace.
wrap it around then hold it tight while running back 'n forth.
use any very fine abrasive, polishing/rubbing compound, powdered cleanser
2000 grit sand paper, crocus cloth etc.
if you use the 2000 sand paper follow that with something else to polish it, the paper will leave microscopic scratches.

CLEAN THOUROUGHLY AFTER POLISHING! you don't want any left over abrasive working into the gears & bearings.

https://www.therangerstation.com/forums/index.php?threads/tool-for-removing-yolks-flanges.178758/

 

[sickwilly]

Ok, thanks for the idea. May wind up using that.

 

[Roert42]

The way you are "Supposed to" set the preload on the pinion nut is to measure the Torque to turn of the pinion by itself, nothing else. If I remember correct, it should be a around 19 in/ilbs with a used crush washer.

I bet if you measured the Torque to turn before you pulled it of, then set it the same you would be good to go.

Do not over tighten the pinion nut, this can mess up the crush washer and cause premature bearing failure.

I tried using a HF punch to hold the Pinion flange while tightening the nut, broke the punch. You may need a lot of torque to set the preload on that crush washer.

 

[sickwilly]

The way you are "Supposed to" set the preload on the pinion nut is to measure the Torque to turn of the pinion by itself, nothing else. If I remember correct, it should be a around 19 in/ilbs with a used crush washer.

I bet if you measured the Torque to turn before you pulled it of, then set it the same you would be good to go.

Do not over tighten the pinion nut, this can mess up the crush washer and cause premature bearing failure.

I tried using a HF punch to hold the Pinion flange while tightening the nut, broke the punch. You may need a lot of torque to set t

Thats the plan, check preload before and set it the same after.

 

[Roert42]

Here is a picture of the flange wrench I made. Can also be used to remove the fan clutch off of a 4.9

 

[sheep herder]

You can't bend the axle tubes by putting jack stands under them.

 

[sickwilly]

You can't bend the axle tubes by putting jack stands under them.

I hope you’re right. I tightened the nut back on the flange and whatever was bumping on the right side stopped. Left side still hard to turn like it’s rubbing against the brake drums. When I said tapped on the flange, I purposely didnt hit it very hard. Don’t know if that messed up the pinion or not.
Anyway I took pinion nut back off and used puller to get flange off. (first time I used the puller there wasn’t enough air to impact gun i guess).

 

[sickwilly]

Flange may need a sleeve, im not sure. But i am done for the day. Started trying to get seal out and the wind was blowing dripping oil in my face, so I’m done. Bout to be beer and bbq pork time. Too beautiful outside to be under a truck cussin.
I would like to ask tho, why is the left tire hard to spin, caused by me hitting the pinion flange?.