Coolant system in 02 2.3 ranger manual

[Ronron1]

So I wouldn't even qualify as an amateur mechanic, but I've been getting my hands dirty on simple jobs.

I want to do a super flush for the radiator and all the you tubes I've watched have you remove the thermostat and run to warm temp with distilled water...

In this year the rangers have a thermostat module that comes in the housing...

Also it doesn't have a radiator cap... Just a reservoir with the cap.

Any recommendations on coolant flush, whether to replace the 185 dollar thermostat even though it was replaced semi recently when the reservoir tank was replaced... (Before purchase). The coolant still looks green, but I want to replace as is the plan with all fluids.

Anyone else get phantom burning plastic smells on this model?

My first post... Second ranger. First one was an 89 single cab short bed manual 2.3. This is almost the same model but these 2.3s seem to just have 4 plugs.

Just working on getting this vehicle well maintained and ready for exploring etc. Thanks for all the help as I reference this site a lot.

 

[Dirtman]

This cooling system is called a degas system. The "overflow" tank is under pressure and the cap on the tank is just like a normal radiator cap (has a pressure relief valve). The cap should be tested or just replaced every so often, they aren't expensive.

As for the thermostat, you have the goofy electronic thermostat that was ditched in later models for a standard style thermostat. Personally, if it was recently replaced I wouldn't touch it. You can swap it with the newer style but you have to do something with the wiring to keep a check engine light from coming on (I don't remeber what). But if it works don't mess with it. Don't even need to remove it to do a flush.

Keep it simple, drain the radiator (90% of the fluid will come out), refill with distilled water and if you want add a bottle of zerex super flush. Drive the truck around to cycle it through the system really well and then drain it again (after letting it cool obviously). You can do that again if the water comes out dirty but usually once is plenty. Then refill with 50/50 coolant and distilled water. Check your owners manual but I believe you should be running gold coolant. Motorcraft gold or Zerex g05. The cooling system on these engines "burps" itself pretty well so you should have no issues with air bubbles when doing the flush. Just watch the tank and top it off as it goes down.

As for the burning plastic smell, no its not normal. A peice of trash could have gotten stuck to the exhaust (I had a plastic trash bag do this and the truck smelled like burnt plastic for months). But also check all the hoses, especially the vacuum lines and just make sure nothing is hitting something it shouldn't.

Side note: replace your PCV valve! No one ever does it on these engines because they are hidden on the side of the block under the intake manifold and a pain to get to.

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Its odd you have Green coolant, silicate base, 2 year life

Spec is yellow/gold, HOAT base, 5 year life

Do NOT use red/pink, OAT, it can't be mixed with green, HOAT can

You can use either green, cheaper or yellow/gold, longer life, one is not better than the other for protection or cooling its about longer life between changes

As a vehicle gets older there will be coolant leaks or water pump, or ???, so the green is not a bad idea, on newer vehicles you can get 5 years without any leaks/issues, lol

Yes, you can drain and refill with distilled water then drive it for a day or two(outside temp ABOVE 32deg), or just warm it up and let it cool down all the way, then drain and refill with your choice of coolant

 

[Dirtman]

Welcome to TRS

Its odd you have Green coolant, silicate base, 2 year life

Spec is yellow/gold, HOAT base, 5 year life

Do NOT use red/pink, OAT, it can't be mixed with green, HOAT can

You can use either green, cheaper or yellow/gold, longer life, one is not better than the other for protection or cooling its about longer life between changes

As a vehicle gets older there will be coolant leaks or water pump, or ???, so the green is not a bad idea, on newer vehicles you can get 5 years without any leaks/issues, lol

Yes, you can drain and refill with distilled water then drive it for a day or two(outside temp ABOVE 32deg), or just warm it up and let it cool down all the way, then drain and refill with your choice of coolant

My coolant is green, but thats because the UV dye turned it from gold to green. Which on a 2.3 duratec is not a bad idea to add because you need to keep an eye on the back of the engine for coolant leaks. If one of the rear hoses starts leaking you're pulling the transmission, so nice to have an early warning system.

 

[Ronron1]

This cooling system is called a degas system. The "overflow" tank is under pressure and the cap on the tank is just like a normal radiator cap (has a pressure relief valve). The cap should be tested or just replaced every so often, they aren't expensive.

As for the thermostat, you have the goofy electronic thermostat that was ditched in later models for a standard style thermostat. Personally, if it was recently replaced I wouldn't touch it. You can swap it with the newer style but you have to do something with the wiring to keep a check engine light from coming on (I don't remeber what). But if it works don't mess with it. Don't even need to remove it to do a flush.

Keep it simple, drain the radiator (90% of the fluid will come out), refill with distilled water and if you want add a bottle of zerex super flush. Drive the truck around to cycle it through the system really well and then drain it again (after letting it cool obviously). You can do that again if the water comes out dirty but usually once is plenty. Then refill with 50/50 coolant and distilled water. Check your owners manual but I believe you should be running gold coolant. Motorcraft gold or Zerex g05. The cooling system on these engines "burps" itself pretty well so you should have no issues with air bubbles when doing the flush. Just watch the tank and top it off as it goes down.

As for the burning plastic smell, no its not normal. A peice of trash could have gotten stuck to the exhaust (I had a plastic trash bag do this and the truck smelled like burnt plastic for months). But also check all the hoses, especially the vacuum lines and just make sure nothing is hitting something it shouldn't.

Side note: replace your PCV valve! No one ever does it on these engines because they are hidden on the side of the block under the intake manifold and a pain to get to.

Wow, now that I know what it's called and that it is in fact a bit goofy I feel much better... I was kind of thinking at over a hundred bucks it seems wierd to need to change for every flush.. This time around I'm going to go with your advice exactly and do the flush without removing the part. May upgrade down the road and have a starting point now to do my homework on the electrical thing. Thanks so much! You saved me some a cash for sure!

 

[Ronron1]

My coolant is green, but thats because the UV dye turned it from gold to green. Which on a 2.3 duratec is not a bad idea to add because you need to keep an eye on the back of the engine for coolant leaks. If one of the rear hoses starts leaking you're pulling the transmission, so nice to have an early warning system.

Right on... I didn't know about the gold coolant being spec. I think I'll go with that and add the dye as like you say doesn't hurt to have advanced warning on a leak! I'm so glad for this place as there didn't seem to be a YouTube video that addressed this specific system. Now I can do my flush with confidence. Thanks so much!

 

[Ronron1]

This cooling system is called a degas system. The "overflow" tank is under pressure and the cap on the tank is just like a normal radiator cap (has a pressure relief valve). The cap should be tested or just replaced every so often, they aren't expensive.

As for the thermostat, you have the goofy electronic thermostat that was ditched in later models for a standard style thermostat. Personally, if it was recently replaced I wouldn't touch it. You can swap it with the newer style but you have to do something with the wiring to keep a check engine light from coming on (I don't remeber what). But if it works don't mess with it. Don't even need to remove it to do a flush.

Keep it simple, drain the radiator (90% of the fluid will come out), refill with distilled water and if you want add a bottle of zerex super flush. Drive the truck around to cycle it through the system really well and then drain it again (after letting it cool obviously). You can do that again if the water comes out dirty but usually once is plenty. Then refill with 50/50 coolant and distilled water. Check your owners manual but I believe you should be running gold coolant. Motorcraft gold or Zerex g05. The cooling system on these engines "burps" itself pretty well so you should have no issues with air bubbles when doing the flush. Just watch the tank and top it off as it goes down.

As for the burning plastic smell, no its not normal. A peice of trash could have gotten stuck to the exhaust (I had a plastic trash bag do this and the truck smelled like burnt plastic for months). But also check all the hoses, especially the vacuum lines and just make sure nothing is hitting something it shouldn't.

Side note: replace your PCV valve! No one ever does it on these engines because they are hidden on the side of the block under the intake manifold and a pain to get to.

I had a suspicion that the smell was from a wiring harness that sits near the block I tried shifting it a bit and I think it helped. It's not there all the time. Next project on the horizon is the valve cover gasket as I discovered a bit of oil in the plugs when I changed them And someone told me it's a good idea. Going to do the manifold gasket too and I guess I'll add pcv valve too. Thanks!

 

[Ronron1]

Welcome to TRS

Its odd you have Green coolant, silicate base, 2 year life

Spec is yellow/gold, HOAT base, 5 year life

Do NOT use red/pink, OAT, it can't be mixed with green, HOAT can

You can use either green, cheaper or yellow/gold, longer life, one is not better than the other for protection or cooling its about longer life between changes

As a vehicle gets older there will be coolant leaks or water pump, or ???, so the green is not a bad idea, on newer vehicles you can get 5 years without any leaks/issues, lol

Yes, you can drain and refill with distilled water then drive it for a day or two(outside temp ABOVE 32deg), or just warm it up and let it cool down all the way, then drain and refill with your choice of coolant

 

[Ronron1]

Welcome to TRS

Its odd you have Green coolant, silicate base, 2 year life

Spec is yellow/gold, HOAT base, 5 year life

Do NOT use red/pink, OAT, it can't be mixed with green, HOAT can

You can use either green, cheaper or yellow/gold, longer life, one is not better than the other for protection or cooling its about longer life between changes

As a vehicle gets older there will be coolant leaks or water pump, or ???, so the green is not a bad idea, on newer vehicles you can get 5 years without any leaks/issues, lol

Yes, you can drain and refill with distilled water then drive it for a day or two(outside temp ABOVE 32deg), or just warm it up and let it cool down all the way, then drain and refill with your choice of coolant

I'm glad I posted here as the guy on YouTube said there's only green or orange coolant... Now I know about the gold... And it seems better to go with spec... So will do that for sure. Thanks!!

 

[Dirtman]

It's super simple to do the PCV valve while the intake manifold is off. Buy a new retainer clip before you take it off because you will break it. It's a flimsy piece of crap but only costs a couple bucks.

 

[Ronron1]

Welcome to TRS

Its odd you have Green coolant, silicate base, 2 year life

Spec is yellow/gold, HOAT base, 5 year life

Do NOT use red/pink, OAT, it can't be mixed with green, HOAT can

You can use either green, cheaper or yellow/gold, longer life, one is not better than the other for protection or cooling its about longer life between changes

As a vehicle gets older there will be coolant leaks or water pump, or ???, so the green is not a bad idea, on newer vehicles you can get 5 years without any leaks/issues, lol

Yes, you can drain and refill with distilled water then drive it for a day or two(outside temp ABOVE 32deg), or just warm it up and let it cool down all the way, then drain and refill with your choice of coolant

Thanks!

 

[Ronron1]

So, I did my flush following advice from the thread about a month ago. Interesting anomalous quirk on 02 rangers... Ev rangers use green coolant as opposed to gold, and gas rangers built before July 02 use green coolant. Gas models built after July use gold. I discovered this while ordering the coolant on carid. There was another question box that popped up...

I only changed upper and lower hoses but she seems to be running happier and the ac blows colder now.

I may be driving up to San Francisco soon for work and am thinking to change oil a bit early just to be safe. I have a very slight lifter tick and someone told me synthetic might solve that with these mazda four cylinder... Any thoughts or recommendations on an oil brand? Last time I used high mileage but not synthetic. If I switch I guess I'm supposed to stick with whatever I switch to. I'm at 90000 now.

 

[Dirtman]

Changing the oil at proper intervals matters more than the brand. Any decent 5w20 will work just fine. And you can switch between conventional and synthetic and back to conventional anytime, it does not matter. I'd stick with synthetic on the duratec just because it has some tiny oil passages to feed the cams and synthetic generally has more detergents in it that help keep those things from clogging up. But again, even with conventional oil, if you change it when you are suppose to it should never let any gunk form.

 

[Ronron1]

Ok, well in that case less pressure on the switch! I'm going to try a good synthetic and hope it eliminates that tick... I changed the belt as well bc it was sqeauking ( partly why I wanted to change coolant first ) and found out my xl didn't come with ac... It was added. So then the belt I ordered was half inch too small! Anyone need a belt for an 02 xl? Just pay shipping as I can't return it... Already threw away the box! Anyhow then one of the pulleys squeaked for a couple days and I thought I might have to change it... But then it stopped. I guess I won't worry til it comes back. Maybe it just had to settle in or something.

 

[Dirtman]

Duratecs make all sorts of ticking and clanking. That's how you know it's working. I've ran synthetic in mine since the very first oil change and have changed it often less than every 3,000 miles. It's always ticked...

I did send oil samples to blackstone a few times. One thing I can say with scientific proof is that Pennzoil ultra platinum works better (in this engine) than Mobil 1. Several numbers for wear (iron and copper) came down when I switched to pennzoil. Not much, but there was a difference.