Common SAS questions


compleckz

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NOTE: Originally posted by Piney Mar 17 2005

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Disclaimer: A solid axle swap is not a bolt-in operation. There is design and fabrication required, so experience with steering and suspension geometry is a must. Make sure you have a plan on how all aspects of the swap will be accomplished before you get yourself in too deep.
What axle?

Well that depends... do you want to put in a fullwidth axle, or one that has about the same width as the Ranger? Some of the axles listed below are already at ranger width, and others are easier to set up fullwidth. The axle must have the differential on the driver's side to match the front driveshaft drop on Ford transfer cases. Passenger side drops have been accomplished on Rangers, but only with custom transfer case setups and extensive exhaust modifications.

D30: I need help making this complete guys.
95 or later XJ (Jeep Cherokee)
-4 link suspension with tracbar
-Coils
-High pinion
-2-297 U-joints

?? - 94 TJ
-Low pinion
-5-260 U-joints
-Leaf sprung

ZJ (Grand Cherokee) have CV joints and likely are no stronger than SLA IFS parts.
D44:

71-77 Early Bronco (previous years had a D30)
-Low pinion
-Weaker U-joints (5-260)
-pre-76 had drum brakes, but can be converted to disks.

71-77 F100/F150
-Fullwidth
-High pinion
-73+ has stronger 5-297 u-joint
-76+ has disk brakes

78-79 Fullsize Bronco / F150
-Fullwidth
-High pinion
-78-79 is easier to narrow, but coil buckets must be spaced from frame to run fullwidth
-5-297 u-joints

76-79 F250
-Fullwidth
-Leaf sprung
-5-297 u-joints
-76-77 are low pinion, 78-79 are high pinion
-Heavy duty axletubes and knuckles

80-91 Jeep Grand Wagoneer
-Low pinion
-Leaf sprung
-Drive flanges
-83-85 had vacuum CAD
-5-297 u-joints

Here is a very extensive information source for all 44's. Mr. N
D60:
?????

Springs/Suspension:

Due to the low-hanging engine crossmember on TTB trucks, a minimum of about 6" lift height will be required to clear the differential pumpkin when the driverside tire stuffs. Some trimming of the engine crossmember is helpful as well.

Leafs (PMed rerard for more info) - On 98+ rangers the easiest route is to use leaf springs. Because these trucks have no coil buckets on the frame to begin with, leaf springs are an attractive method. A crossmember will need to be fabricated with spring hangers for the front, and shackles will need to be attached to the frame.

Coils - There's a good chance your axle will already be set up for coils and radius arms. This is the most popular setup because the factory Ranger coil buckets can be used. Radius arms and radius arm brackets should be taken from the donor truck. A tracbar is required to provide lateral control of the axle. An easy option is an adjustable tracbar for an Early Bronco, available from Wildhorses4x4 or Superlift. The best location for the tracbar bracket is on the outside of the frame, behind the steering box. This bracket is usually made from scratch and welded to the frame, however the factory tracbar bracket on a 78-79 fullsize Bronco can be used as a starting point. This bracket needs to be stout, and be well gusseted to the frame to prevent cracking. The radius arm brackets will interfere with the existing transmission crossmember, so a custom crossmember will need to be fabricated.

TTB coils are far too stiff for use with a solid axle. Early Bronco coils are a good choice, and there are several brands that are very soft. Generally, an EB coil in the factory Ranger bucket and using the factory lower spring perch from the donor axle will produce 2-3" more lift than the stated lift height for an EB (a 3.5" lift EB coil will produce about 6" lift on a SAS'd Ranger).

Steering:

On 98+ Rangers, the factory rack and pinion steering must be replaced with a traditional gearbox.

Generally you will not want to re-use the factory steering linkage from the donor truck. In most cases these will not provide optimal draglink angle and length on a Ranger. The tierod ends on these are also non-serviceable, and probably starting to wear out after 25+ years.

The most popular aftermarket steering setup is a custom assembly of 1-ton Chevy tierod ends and threaded DOM tubing. Because the 1-ton tierod ends have a larger stud diameter, the steering knuckles on the Dana 44 can be reamed from the top so that the tierod can be mounted on top of the steering arm, raising it several inches away from danger, and also reducing draglink angles. The Ranger pitman arm taper will also need to be enlarged to accept the larger tierod end.

Other setups include heim joints (rod ends) along with a variety of high-steer options. Here is a good writeup on using the Chevy TRE's and here is a writeup on various other setups.
.........................
 
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TRUNK_MONKEY

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some helpful info to add

late model XJ's(cherokees) have a high pinion d30 with coils
YJ's(leaf sprung wrangler) have high pinion d30(i think all are,but not 100% sure)
all Yj and TJ 4 cylinders are 410 gears
late XJ's and TJ's(coil sprung wranglers) all share the larger u joints in the axle shafts.
look into the Jeep aftermarket for track bar products,lots of options and prolly will be affordable.
all tj's,yj's,xj's and wj/zj's(grand cherokee) are d30's as best i can tell.
one of the wj or zj has a lot better brake caliper (dual piston) for brake improvements.
there is HUGE aftermarket support for the d30--alloy axle shafts to u joints and a large selection of lockers as well,from ARB to the ever popular detroit locker.lots of diff cover armor as well.and plenty of improved tie rod assemblies as well.:icon_thumby:
 

PARKINGLOT

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XJ's, ZJ's, and TJ's, had coil sprung, HP axles. The YJ may have had some HP axles, but I'm pretty sure most were LP axles, and all were leaf sprung....
 

TRUNK_MONKEY

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i have a tj,and worked on a few--they are stock with low pinions.not sure on the years but late xjs have all high pinion,thinking 96 or 97 and till the end of the series,but not totally sure of the year.
my d30 came from a yj-it is HPd30.i have asked around and the consensus is all(not 100% sure) yj's are HP's.
 

PARKINGLOT

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hell...I've been asking around local jeep guys for free/cheap XJ/ZJ D30's b/c they are HP, I could have had an axle by now if I knew YJ axles were HP too...
 
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butch cassidy

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jeep d30

just a note to everyone: all zj's have a low pinion d30. not all are cv equipted. if it comes from a v8 zj it will be cv'd if its from a 4.0 it MAY be non cv. not all 4.o's were non-cv. i am big into zj and rangers si if anyone needs more info just ask.
 

wahlstrom1

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The 'limited' versions got the cv's the rest got regular ujoints for no real reason, this coming from the 20 yr's experienced journeyman automotive turned HD mechanic I work with.

-andrew
 
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Roger

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My 95 4.0 ZJ Laredo is low pinion D30 with U joints... My 90 XJ is high pinion, but has the vacuum disconnect.
 

MakerOfBeast

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i got my hp 30 out of a 86 wagoner and all of the wagoners have cv's in the front instead of u-joints
 

94 lngbd

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what frontend was in the 86-88 Jeep comanche trucks. Im thinking about a 2wd/4wd conversion using a comanche front end being that I have both an 86 with 4.10 gears 2.8 V-6 & a 88 w/3.88? 4.0L inline 6. Would either front end have the same diff location . There not here at my home so I cant just run out & look.
 

jaymegriffiths

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i can get a set of d44's from a 74 jeep cherokee, but i believe they are pass. side drop. is there a way to correct this to work on my ranger? with enough narrowing i spose the diff would be near center...
 

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jaymegriffiths

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thanks for that detailed answer. according to some other threads a passenger side diff has been done on a RBV but not without a passeger drop t case and heavy exhaust mods
 

MEAKIN

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98+ sas question

anyone know if you have to remove/make new engine cross member to do a radius arm sas on a 99? the cross member hangs down alot due to rack and pinion steering setup. Im concerned about the panhard bar interfering. will be around 7-9" of lift. i havent got the d60 yet and am just grinding all the useless stuff off the frame so im wondering if i should ditch the factory member or not. thanx :icon_cheers:
 
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wahlstrom1

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You don't have to remove it, but building around it with adequate clearance's will make the truck quite tall. If you can support the engine and build a new much higher clearance cross member you would be a lot better off.
 


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