Can I get some advice? FM145 trans questions during clutch job, 86 4wd

[rang-a-stang]

Son and I are doing a clutch job and have come up across a few hickups.

1) Looks like this is the "Neutral sensing switch". Right? How do I get the electrical connector off? I tried unscrewing it, I tried prying on it, and I cannot get it to budge. I ended up cutting the wires to get the trans out. The wires are super old and brittle so I will probably replace them anyway but it sure would be a lot easier if I could get the connector off. I know I can unscrew the whole thing but I would think the wires can come off on their own, right?

2) I feel like there should be a boot or seal up here around the shifter. We have the floor boot but under the floor boot is this (see pics). I see gobs of oiley dirt all over my trans and it looks to be from a leak around the shifter. I don't even see how to take this apart. Is there something missing here? Can I fix this?

3) It took us 6 hours to get this out. (annoyed) Hardest part was getting the bell housing to clear the cross member/sway bar mount AND the floor board. We also broke one of the bolts that hold the Y-Pipe to the passenger side exhaust manifold so now we have to pull the exhaust manifold out and drill/tap it. What a pain ITA. Any advice to make installing this trans/case easier?

Tomorrow we will install the new clutch, pressure wash the crap out of this biatch and start putting it back together.

 

[gaz]

I always disconnect both drive lines and take the cross member off.

 

[rang-a-stang]

Copy that. I am talking about the cross member that is riveted to the frame where my radius arms bolt on. It's also where my sway bar mounts. We did take the crossmember that the trans mount bolts too off.

 

[ford4wd08]

Take the transfer case off... Much easier to wrestler around the transmission without the weight of the transfer case on the back.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Front driveshaft should just pull out of the T-case.

Definitely easier to work with if you split the T-case off the trans.

Looks like it is missing some kind of boot on the shifter but I haven’t seen that particular design.

Not sure about that sensor, maybe look at a new one if possible? Once in awhile the wires are part of the sensor.

Broken bolt in the exhaust manifold, if you have access to oxy/acetylene, oxy/propane, or Mapp gas, I would heat the manifold around the broken bolt until it’s cherry and unscrew the broken bolt. Way easier than adding to problems by pulling a manifold, usually end up breaking more bolts

 

[RobbieD]

1) Looks like this is the "Neutral sensing switch". Right? How do I get the electrical connector off?

The wires circled in your picture are made into the switch; it won't unplug there.

The switch should have had a rather long harness between the switch and its connector. This is what the switch with connector looks like on the 2WD version, the FM132:

 

[rang-a-stang]

Take the transfer case off... Much easier to wrestler around the transmission without the weight of the transfer case on the back.

Yeah. That's a good idea. Especially to install it.

Front driveshaft should just pull out of the T-case.

Definitely easier to work with if you split the T-case off the trans.

Looks like it is missing some kind of boot on the shifter but I haven’t seen that particular design.

Not sure about that sensor, maybe look at a new one if possible? Once in awhile the wires are part of the sensor.

Broken bolt in the exhaust manifold, if you have access to oxy/acetylene, oxy/propane, or Mapp gas, I would heat the manifold around the broken bolt until it’s cherry and unscrew the broken bolt. Way easier than adding to problems by pulling a manifold, usually end up breaking more bolts

Oh. haha! OK, we will pull it out after cleaning the whole thing.
I can't find a part number for it or I would try to replace it.
It's the passenger side upper bolt that broke. I am not sure I can get a torch up there and it broke off internal to the manifold. Meaning, I have 2/3's of the bolt out, the broken part sits about 1/4" inside the hole, and was about 1/2 removed. I am going to have to drill it. Later today I will lay under there and see if I can do it with the manifold still attached. It happened late in the evening last night and I was not really in the mood to look at it closely. I'll take some pics today.

The wires circled in your picture are made into the switch; it won't unplug there.

The switch should have had a rather long harness between the switch and its connector. This is what the switch with connector looks like on the 2WD version, the FM132:
View attachment 72943

Sigh... OK. There is some serious wire hackery going on around mine. I will remove the switch because I want to test it anyway, then replace the wires with some new softer ones. I think I have a 2 pin weatherpack connector laying around I will install.

Anyone have any idea what the part number is for this sensor? "Sensor" seems like a generours word for what this is. I don't see it on the wiring diagram either. I wonder what happens if I remove it....

 

[rang-a-stang]

When I replace those bolts (the ones that connect the Y-pipe flange to the Manifold), I plan to use some copper antiseize and grade 8 bolts. Are either of those a bad idea(s)?

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

When I replace those bolts (the ones that connect the Y-pipe flange to the Manifold), I plan to use some copper antiseize and grade 8 bolts. Are either of those a bad idea(s)?

Probably not a bad idea. I’ve found copper antiseize to be difficult to get and rather expensive around here. I usually end up replacing the bolts with stainless. But copper and grade 8 should work.

Usually mine end up breaking with a stub sticking out one side or the other. It’s a pain getting in there and working with a torch but can be done. Depending on which bolt it may be easier to try and get at it through the wheel well. Cherry it up around the bolt and go at it with a pair of slip joint pliers. If it gets too hard to turn, heat things up again. Broke far more of those than I care to and I don’t even want to talk about breaking the exhaust manifold bolts. As much of a pain as the Y-pipe bolts are when they break, I feel like manifold bolts are worse. Of course, once in awhile the manifolds come off easy, so results may vary. Here in the rust belt, that’s my results.

 

[ford4wd08]

Probably not a bad idea. I’ve found copper antiseize to be difficult to get and rather expensive around here. I usually end up replacing the bolts with stainless. But copper and grade 8 should work.

Usually mine end up breaking with a stub sticking out one side or the other. It’s a pain getting in there and working with a torch but can be done. Depending on which bolt it may be easier to try and get at it through the wheel well. Cherry it up around the bolt and go at it with a pair of slip joint pliers. If it gets too hard to turn, heat things up again. Broke far more of those than I care to and I don’t even want to talk about breaking the exhaust manifold bolts. As much of a pain as the Y-pipe bolts are when they break, I feel like manifold bolts are worse. Of course, once in awhile the manifolds come off easy, so results may vary. Here in the rust belt, that’s my results.

With the transmission out of the way, I feel like he should have more room than usual for sure.

 

[rang-a-stang]

Probably not a bad idea. I’ve found copper antiseize to be difficult to get and rather expensive around here. I usually end up replacing the bolts with stainless. But copper and grade 8 should work.

Usually mine end up breaking with a stub sticking out one side or the other. It’s a pain getting in there and working with a torch but can be done. Depending on which bolt it may be easier to try and get at it through the wheel well. Cherry it up around the bolt and go at it with a pair of slip joint pliers. If it gets too hard to turn, heat things up again. Broke far more of those than I care to and I don’t even want to talk about breaking the exhaust manifold bolts. As much of a pain as the Y-pipe bolts are when they break, I feel like manifold bolts are worse. Of course, once in awhile the manifolds come off easy, so results may vary. Here in the rust belt, that’s my results.

I have a giant vat of copper antiseize from another job.
My bolt broke off flush on both sides (annoyed). see below.

With the transmission out of the way, I feel like he should have more room than usual for sure.

DEFINATELY more room! See below!
****************************************************************************************
My son spent about 2 hours cleaning trans and transfer case. Look at the difference!

We both noticed a big "SHA" stenciled to the forward output. I assume this case was rebuilt at some point the shop marked it with a order code or something.

I removed the neutral sensing switch, and tested it (it worked as like a switch should). Then snipped the wires at the connector, soldered on some new ones, shrink wrapped them, put some conduit on them, and covered the top with hot glue to prevent further rot. You can see my new connector under the arrow. We are going to make new breather tubes for both the Transmission and xfer case before we re-install them.

Here is the broken bolt. It is broken flush on the top on bottom which means A) I cannot grab it to pull it out, and b) I could not get a transfer punch to center to drill it out so I had to wing it.

I was able to get it drilled out and re-tapped for a 1/2"x13 bolt. So that side is good to go. On the driver sides, one bolt is still seized in there and I don't want it to break but I am going to retap the hole that is open for 1/2x13 too.
I was also able to drop my cross member and boy am I glad I did! That gave us a solid 4 more inches of clearance.

My son unbolted the xfer case from the trans and said he was able to seperate them by about an inch but was not able to pull them apart. It was late and I was in bed so I am not sure what the literal hang-up is. More to follow!

 

[rang-a-stang]

Anyone know if these little plastic things are available new? What would you call this? I can't find a part number. It is where the xfer case shifter meets the xfer case shift arm...

What about this rubber bumper/spring thingey? Ours still works OK but looks to be near the end of it's life.

 

[ford4wd08]

The plastic part of the linkage still looks like it will work. Here is an old thread of mine for more info.

Manual Shift BW1350 Linkage

Hi all, I need help finding the correct part name for the round white bushing the manual shift transfer case linkage has in it. I broke mine while I was taking the auto trans out. I'll try to snap a pic of it tonight. I can't seem to find one anywhere on line. The shifting linkage has like...

www.therangerstation.com

As for the rubber bumper. I wouldn't worry about it much. Should be fine as is.

 

[rang-a-stang]

Copy on the bushing. I'll probably just throw some lube on it and call it good.

Copy on the bumper. If they were common and easy to find I would go get one but for now it seems fine. Maybe I will throw a couple layers of electrical tape around it just to help it out a little.

On to the shifter. I cleaned it up and tried looking at some pics on the interwebz. It looks/feels like I should have a spring in here:

I found this picture of a different Ranger shifter and this makes a lot more sense to me. If this spring is in here, the white plastic doughnut dealie would seal up the shaft a lot better. It would also get rid of some of my shifter slop.

I think I am going to take my shifter with me to my local hardware store. They have a pretty robust spring section. I'll see if I can find something in there that will fit there. I am not sure how I will get the spring on there but will try to figure something out. My shift knob is hard core seized on the shaft; I would have to break it off. I also would need to grind the little ears off that hold that washer down there. Hmmmmm......

 

[rang-a-stang]

OK, truck is all back together. What a PAIN that was! We played dances with engine for about 3 hours trying to get it to seat. We tried dropping the trans out several times and adjusting the disc with the alingment tool and it just didn't want to go home. I never was able to find a spring that would work for the shifter so I just cleaned it all up and put it away. The little plastic bushing broke as we were re-assembling the xfercase to the engine so we will order a new one. Taking the case off was not a big deal but working in the gear oil that spilled out SUCKED. bleeding the clutch also sucked.

So at this point, the truck is back on the road but needs the bushing replaced. I fixed all the wire hackery and found the reverse light switch is ALWAYS closed so I ended up removing the back up light wiring.

My son's next paycheck (Friday) he will pick up the bushing and the back up light switch and he should be golden! I appreciate you guys all kicking in some good advice! We couldn't have done it without you!