axle swaps for a ranger...

[cdawall]

So when you first SAS'd your Ranger did you use the same logic or did you think that there wasn't any better axle than a Dana 30???

There wasn't a better 5 on 4.5" and it would have worked for what I needed however my needs changed.

 

[Hagan]

There wasn't a better 5 on 4.5" and it would have worked for what I needed however my needs changed.

So why would someone narrow a 9"/D60 if you can find an 8.8 with the same pattern and plenty of strength?

 

[cdawall]

So why would someone narrow a 9"/D60 if you can find an 8.8 with the same pattern and plenty of strength?

Because its a waste of money imo. All you end up doing is upgrading past them.

 

[Shran]

So why would someone narrow a 9"/D60 if you can find an 8.8 with the same pattern and plenty of strength?

Because I have a 9" sitting under my deck, a friend has the narrowing bars and jig and cutting new splines on a set of shafts is comparatively cheap.

 

[Hagan]

Because its a waste of money imo. All you end up doing is upgrading past them.

Thats so not true. Not everyone needs a D60. Why didn't you just find Rockwells?

Because I have a 9" sitting under my deck, a friend has the narrowing bars and jig and cutting new splines on a set of shafts is comparatively cheap.

So have you broken your 8.8?

 

[cdawall]

Thats so not true. Not everyone needs a D60. Why didn't you just find Rockwells?

Thought about it, but decided I wanted the truck to still be streetable.

So have you broken your 8.8?

Yes a D35 TTB, D35 rear, D30 as well.

 

[Shran]

So have you broken your 8.8?

Nope, it was a 30k mile pull and I haven't really wheeled it. Let's not even mention that it was also free and I had it before my 9".

Also I feel it necessary to mention that I have personally been at the junkyard looking for an 8.8 to replace a broken 8.8, and at least 50% of the axles there had bad pinion bearings or broken carriers - guess which pieces I have also personally replaced in other 8.8s...

I'm not saying they're BAD by any means, just that there are much BETTER choices out there.

 

[Hagan]

Yes a D35 TTB, D35 rear, D30 as well.

With what???

Nope, it was a 30k mile pull and I haven't really wheeled it. Let's not even mention that it was also free and I had it before my 9".

Also I feel it necessary to mention that I have personally been at the junkyard looking for an 8.8 to replace a broken 8.8, and at least 50% of the axles there had bad pinion bearings or broken carriers - guess which pieces I have also personally replaced in other 8.8s...

I'm not saying they're BAD by any means, just that there are much BETTER choices out there.

Interesting...your 150hp 302 will destroy an 8.8 but millions of F-150's with 351's have no problems?

 

[Shran]

Interesting...your 150hp 302 will destroy an 8.8 but millions of F-150's with 351's have no problems?

lulz. Is that why there were at least 10 trucks at ONE junkyard here in town, a month ago, that had half an inch of slop in the pinion bearing? It's not a coincidence, they're a light duty axle. This is a known issue. It's just like the old GM 10 bolt mess.

 

[Hagan]

lulz. Is that why there were at least 10 trucks at ONE junkyard here in town, a month ago, that had half an inch of slop in the pinion bearing? It's not a coincidence, they're a light duty axle. This is a known issue. It's just like the old GM 10 bolt mess.

So, what if I go to 2 of my local junkyards and play with the pinions...what should I expect?

 

[Shran]

I can't really answer that question. I've seen it firsthand so I know exactly what to expect, it's a major bummer to walk into a yard and find out that there are a bunch of trucks there that got parked ten years ago simply because they had a broken rear axle. To me it's a dead giveaway that Ford dropped the 9", started selling a weaker, cheaper version in the years that quality control got flushed down the pisser and then dropped the junker a decade later in favor of the Sterling axles which have actually held up. Just my opinion with some experience behind it.

 

[Hagan]

I can't really answer that question. I've seen it firsthand so I know exactly what to expect, it's a major bummer to walk into a yard and find out that there are a bunch of trucks there that got parked ten years ago simply because they had a broken rear axle. To me it's a dead giveaway that Ford dropped the 9", started selling a weaker, cheaper version in the years that quality control got flushed down the pisser and then dropped the junker a decade later in favor of the Sterling axles which have actually held up. Just my opinion with some experience behind it.

Yeah you are correct...they dumped the 9" for a cheaper axle. Its true its not as strong and c-clips do suck. But maybe one day I'll convert mine to 9" outers with 9" axle shafts to have a full floating 8.8... (maybe?)

I actually picked up a 9" for $30, 31 spline, N case, and Trac lok, and sold it for $150...and bought my 8.8 because I already had gears and a locker for it

I believe the 8.8 will handle my 2.3 just fine

 

[cdawall]

With what???

Stock ford 4.0L OHV and stock jeep I-6, 33-35s and a little to much skinny pedal.

 

[aspevacek]

I know the inline six is an odd choice, but the engine is the simplest to work on,
and its reliability is outstanding. the cost is always a factor as well, and I really
like the extra room that it leaves in the engine compartment... to mount other
things.

I don't mind cutting, grinding and welding at all, and fabricating custom parts or
brackets comes easy to me... like melding an F-250 4x4 engine cradle to the
bottom of a ford E-250 van cradle to do a 520 cu.in. monster van.

and I know... or believe, that the 300/C6 combo wouldn't wear out in the rest of my lifetime.

the explorer axle swap was what I was reading about just before joining this
forum, and it seems the best bang for the buck. and I can do some nice steel
flares on the front and rear to cover the tires... (PA law, if I'm not mistaking).

this was an auction vehicle that the wife bought for me.... the 2.9 runs, the
5-speed and the T-case works, but the whole truck is pretty beat up. not
worth all the trouble, time or cost to restore it even to stock form again.

the body and frame are good though, and that's the plus side. I say that it'll
be a work truck, but I'm also thinking of a semi-bug-out theme too.

not a rock crawler, not a monster... just reliable enough for the road, and tough
enough for the woods.

thanks a lot... I will do pictures when this gets gong.

w

I am located in PA. Mechanicsburg and I currently have 35X12.5's on my Ranger and have no problem gettign thru inspection or the poilce. Susquehanna township poilice seem to be the hardest to deal with and not even they have given a second look at my tire/rim combo. Just something to think about before you start drilling/ cutting and putting flares on your truck. There is no way i would think of cuttign fenders on my 97 splash the wife would have a heart attack then place me into an early grave. She loves the truck to death and has put 90% of the 84k miles on it that it currently has.

 

[justwalt]

the deciding factor... my wife pushed me to take a ride to our closest junk yards...
and the score... there sat a '94 explorer intact, with a rusted frame.

so, for 130 skinny bucks, we got 2 ranger doors with NO rust, door panels, door seals,
a nice tinted sliding rear window... and...AND, both, front and rear axles from the explorer,
hub to hub.

it's good to have friends in greasy-dirty places. the rears are $50 each. I can't say no.

now, do I take the radius arms from the exploder too... coils, or any other thing while
I'm removing parts????

I think I'll take the drive shafts, at least for the ends, I need a couple of the rear
spring hangers anyway... there's 3 or 4 rangers there... and another 2.9 with
a 5 speed... might take the heads and intake, and work them up ahead of time.

and as far as cutting into the body of this truck, it's not a "looker" by any means, and it
doesn't have to be. a tree rub here or there won't hurt my feelings, I'll just keep a couple
extra cans of flat black in the tool box.