Anyone up for a hardcore 3.0 build?

[cathalex]

Bump.. More work has progressed. I have profiled the crank, got the valves and made pedestals for LS rockers. Pics coming tomorrow.

 

[simpler=better]

Looking good!

I'd definitely recommend an electric fan with a temperature switch in the block to kick it on and off. Helps you get up to temp faster and hold it there consistently.

 

[stmitch]

Making nice progress! Your porting looks very consistent and smooth.

 

[cathalex]

Getting a lot closer, sort of.

Well, I decided to use this 1991 block I had. I was able to make it roller capable, with a twist. In the pic below, there is a pic of a spider. It is one from a 4.3 Chevy turned upside down. It fits perfectly when fitted upside down. And there's my intake shield.

Progressing further, my valve size selection buggered me. I didn't realise there wasn't that much room on the valve to block clearance. So, it bit me on the arse. I'm back into custom piston territory as it stands. Not a major problem. Since I cheated out on the block I guess it's 700 worth of pistons instead of 500. Oh well. Since this little development I am going to use a 5.7 Chevy rod now. Still a couple hundred cheaper. And since the CH will be 1.375 I'm gonna run a Chevy .927 pin. It still gives a 1.8 rod ratio. More cost on the piston, but free on the rods

It will have this to say about the Vulcan block: outside of some nasty casting flash on the underside, this is one of the stronger factory blocks to hone. The "most holy 010" Chevy blocks don't hone as good as this Vulcan. Hardly any dwell on the hone and less than two tenths OOR. I honed it from .030ish over to 3.550 and it went well. Not like honing a 302 or a Mod. Those are like honing a beer can. No, I'm giving the beer can too much credit. Those two are like honing a Solo cup. And I have a torque plate that kind of fits. If I'm bothered to fit it.

A secret from a machinist here regarding torque plates... They're semi useful. The ancient lie has been "it simulates it running/head torqued up." Ok. If the block is so junky from the factory that the block distorts from a dozen or so bolts being torqued to 60 ft-lbs what is 150 psi cranking pressure/ 1000 peak running compression gonna do to it?

Anyway, I digress. The LS rockers look good and geometry kind of well. They pattern as well as the stock crap. Guy at Delta told me they were 1.5, but I'm not sure.

I'm going to re valve job the heads yet again, the indicator lied to me. A couple intakes are not deep enough. And putting in a hard-as-a-whore's-heart exhaust seat.

Time to post pics, more coming soon.

 

[cathalex]

 

[stmitch]

Stock 3.0 rocker ratio is 1.6. I thought the ls rockers were all 1.7 from the factory, but I could have been mistaken. Also, I thought the rockers would be rollers?

What size valves did you end up with? Will your custom pistons have to be fly cut to accomodate them? Obviously, your custom piston/rod combo will change things, but a stock 3.0 has over .25" of piston to valve clearance even when using 1.8 ratio rockers, so your custom piston/rod combo must be a much longer stroke than stock if you need to fly cut things.

 

[JP02XLT]

Looks good, I like the idea on the 4.3 spyder as your intake shield, I fabbed my own and cut it to follow the pushrods closer, but that one should work just fine.

Nice work on the crank weights, take a look at the Windstar splash plate as well, with a little welding it makes a nice scraper plate.

JP02XLT

 

[cathalex]

Problems are resolving.. Stmitch I'm using 1.720/1.427 valves. But I found a way to notch the block but proper and still have tons of block to valve clearance even at .500 lift.

Gonna use a Wiseco shelf stock with a twist. They have .300 down top rings and my block reliefs are .230 max.

The old junky sealed power hypers that came out of it had over .030 down..

I'm gonna order the pistons at 1.280 CH, no extra charge; cut ptv if needed and mill off the extra dome I don't need.

I can't move the head down but i can get a taller piston. Since it's gonna cost the same either way, what the hell..

Now here is a good question, what is the best CR to go with.. 9.3 was my target but the one I'm rolling now rattles it's ass off on regular. Do I treat it like a BBC and stay low at 9:1 or just say **** it and put it at factory spec of 9.3 or a bit over? It ain't like I can't tune it; Triangle Speed are my brothers in arms and they will help. They tried to get me to hang a hair dryer on it, which I haven't discounted yet.

 

[cathalex]

Update!

No work has progressed since last time- wife ditched me. Now I've got it all back at the shop and I had enough heart to piddle with it today. Vr in block almost finished. Think i will get the crank taken care of next week, then I can order rods.

Anyone have any suggestions on the compression ratio?

 

[pjtoledo]

No work has progressed since last time- wife ditched me. Now I've got it all back at the shop and I had enough heart to piddle with it today. Vr in block almost finished. Think i will get the crank taken care of next week, then I can order rods.

Anyone have any suggestions on the compression ratio?

are congratulations in order?


keep the build going, I've a 3.0 also and am getting ideas.


Perry

 

[triumphrider-1]

Maybe run the CR at 8:1 or 8.5:1 and put a hair dryer on it with 7-10psi...

 

[cathalex]

Bump. I ain't quit on the project just other things are happening. And no congratulations are not in order- ass kicking of "I hate men" women realtors and homo friends' company we kept is in order.... And on tap. Soon as I'm off probation...

 

[cathalex]

Bump. I haven't had time to work on this thing. Questions still: does anyone have an idea on what to do for engine controls? It is a 94 with distributor but mainly I'm wanting to increase the rev limit. Any ideas? Plus, I'm getting ready to get the short block done soon. Maybe before summer I can get it rolling. Wife gave me the HHR back so I can park the Ranger while I work it over.. I even have thought of ditching the 3.0 and doing a 331 Windsor and putting a self learn EFI on that. I dunno. Kinda just want to finish the 3.0 if I can get the blooming thing to rev.

 

[simpler=better]

Can you go megasquirt and ditch the distributor? That's time & money to start, but I imagine it can keep up at high revs better than the stock system.

 

[stmitch]

You can have a chip burned, or buy a strategy file. I've read on some other forums that the fox body A9L computers are especially tune able using free open source tunes, but I believe you'd have to run a mega squirt or Quarterhorse type of controller to utilize it.