2.3L ('83-'97) Air cleaner/heat riser vacuum control assembly question

[corerftech]

On the 1990 2.3 there is a vac line controlling the hot air riser valve from the exhaust manifold and also a vac line to the manifold vac tree.

Having redirected both from a JYD but disassembled I want to make sure I have the order correct.

mom the Air cleaner housing there is a vac stub with two ports.
Is there a specific order to install those lines?

This is the two metal spuds on the air cleaner box on top, need to know if it matters in/out.
There is a logical order as the lines are specific length and visually make sense but if it’s backwards?

is it just a pass through to protect the plastic heat intolerant section from tree to spud from being exposed to the harsh heat near the manifold (a basic rubber line?).

Im trying to wrap head around the numerous areas of vacuum leak that could be occurring and so far I have an evap canevap purge tube and hose ends, valve cover oil vapor line to TB, vac tree, egr red/green, vac accumulator tank, it’s hoses, , FPR vac line, TB to upper manifold, upper to lower manifold, head to manifold, and I think there is a Vac tree to egr line too……

I am so very close to having removed every issue, it’s sickening.
I wanted to register the car today and get it insured and start driving (pending windshield install) but I’d rather resolve the defects (egr code 33) first.

My evap can was missing the big breather plugs and was essentially disconnected on arrival. I have procured the plugs and installed and have the vape line installed from tank to can, and purge from can to TB.

A thought just crossed my mind, is there an order to the evap can lines, I have the vape on the front spud (closest to grille) and the purge on rear (closest to engine). ?????

 

[franklin2]

I don't have a 4 cyl, but I am assuming your vacuum lines in the aircleaner control a heat door in the air snorkel? If so, yes there is a specific order they go in. The port that feeds the heat door is special, since it "leaks" when the temperature valve opens the door.

The temp valve applies vacuum to the heat door to close it. When the air temp is hot enough and the temp switch wants the door to open, the valve stops the vacuum from the vacuum hose, but also lets the vacuum start to leak off the heat door port. If you get them backwards, the heat door will close on a cold start up, but will never open, the leak down feature will be on the wrong side. I have hooked them up backwards before and found this out the hard way.

Not sure on the canister lines, but I bet there is a certain way they go on there. See if you can rub the top of the can carefully, they may have embossed the port names on top near the ports.

 

[corerftech]

Evap can has an 1/8 inch and 3/8 inch inlet, hard to confuse them—— sorry for stupid question. Didn’t have eyes on it.

Inside the lid of air cleaner is what I guess is the heat valve. Small round button shaped part. There is a red dot on one side of it- (as seen inside the lid).
Not sure who goes where and EVTM specifies nothing.
As for evap, I’ll take a look. Just got windshield installed. I’m pooped now. It was a used windshield I pulled and it took a minute to prep, and elbow grease.

Is there a flapper valve inside an evap can? Since this year has no purge valve either it is constant purge with a regulated amount of airflow (if piped correctly), or it’s breathing straight through one of those big plugs

 

[corerftech]

i deleted my question,
EVTM clearly deletes a purge solenoid on 2.3 and 2.9l engines and pin 31 is not used at all.