advice on method of acheiving small lift.

[jeffw920]

hey, I have a 2004 fx4 level2. I would like to get it sitting a little higher purely for aesthetic reasons. It came with 31's, has new 31's and i don't plan to go to anything bigger because I don't want to regear and don't want to sacrifice any performance or fuel mileage.

Basically i've narrowed it down to two options: pa 70033 3in body lift, or torsion crank with stock keys and belltech 6400's.

from my knowledge and searching on this site here are the pros and cons of each...

Body lift: pros
-retain stock suspension/driveline geometry
-gain lifted appearance
cons:
-I think it might be a little much lift for 31's to look like they belong there.
-more difficult to install than shackles/ torsion crank.
-many little brackets to relocate things like e-brake cable, radiator, grounding straps, fuel neck extension piece....all come across as half assed solutions to me.

belltech 6400's/torsion crank: pros
-small amount of lift 1.5-2 inches i believe
-this amount of lift may look better with 31's
-cheaper
cons:
-slight change to pinion angle?
-increase cv angle
-ball joints wear quicker

If i were to go the route of shackles and torsion twist i would purchase those extended ranchos for 1-2inches of lift. My main concern with this method would be having a CV bind or blow while pulling my boat up the ramp in 4x4. I would like to hear from the many of you who have done it If you think this would be safe to do, or if a body lift would be a better option for a truck that uses its 4x4 under a pretty good pulling load.

Specifically if someone who has either, or both of these, could you tell me the validity of having concern associated CV angle increase using stock keys, and or change in pinion angle due to shackles... (btw i know this is discussed all the time I just wanted some more specific advice)

thank you for anyone who can throw some advice my way

 

[06RangerXLT]

i have a 4 inch lift on my stock driveshaft. 30,000 kms in and zero problems. id go shackles and t bar crank

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

Go with the crank/shackles. A mild crank like that will have very very little effect on balljoint/CV wear.

You're not going to just start magically start blowing up CV shafts.

 

[jeffw920]

ok cool, thanks

 

[cstishenko]

If you go with the belltech 6400s you WILL need to do a FULL crank in the front just to keep it close to level. from my experience the tbars cranked and shocks will bring you up to dead level front to back. the belltechs will bring your factory rake back but 2 inches higher overall. as long as you install shocks your ride will be very close to stock!

This setup enhances the look of the 31s without looking stupid. No need to worry about cv's blowing up. ihave many km with this suspension setup. its even seen 4lo full lock and wot. you are good to go.

 

[jeffw920]

thanks for the reply, i'll be tackling that soon, may wait till spring for better weather, or might do it over my winter break from school

 

[cstishenko]

The shocks and torsion crank should take you all of an hour in a dry spot with hand tools. very easy. the shackles take that kinda time too but are a little more involved

 

[cstishenko]

Make sure you get extended length rancho shocks or make spacers for your bilsteins. if you dont the ride will be horrid. and dont hesitate to go full crank!

 

[06RangerXLT]

do not crank your t bars to full. buy keys.

 

[cstishenko]

06RangerXLT: You sir, are a 2WD coil spring enthusiast - and don't even own a set of torsion bars or a truck that uses them. Please explain to us from your first hand experience why keys are better?

I was un-educated on the subject once too. I then did my research, and took apart my truck which has this setup under it - unlike you.. And can attest to the fact that keys and crank do the exact same thing (apply pre-load to the torsion bar). Why do you think ready-lifts keys NEED the removal and installation tool? They are applying the pre-load before you have the keys fully installed. This is doing the same thing as your stock key adjustment bolts.

Aftermarket keys vs a full crank achieve the exact same effect. Keys pre-load the bar the exact same as a crank, keys provide the same height as a crank, and keys are much more labour intensive than a crank. They're a gimmick, and much harder to return to stock with.

If you love spending excess money, do it. There is nothing wrong with them. But I personally would rather put the $500 on the part and install towards something useful like a full set of shocks and a set of shackles

 

[cstishenko]

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TorsionBar.html

 

[legoms013]

He is right, keys are a waste. They do nothing you can't already do, and cost more money.

 

[cstishenko]

Potentially you could apply more lift with the ready lift keys. You will in turn also wear out CV shafts, and ball joints much faster too.

I've also heard of stories from a friend of a friend who has broken a torsion bar over large bumps from over pre-loading them. Whether thats true? I'm not sure.

You should'nt need to go higher than your stock keys can provide. If you do - buy a different kind of truck. haha

 

[jeffw920]

yeah thanks for all the advice cstishenko, just ordered shackles from summit, i know it wont take long ive done shocks before. im gonna take the bed off to make the shackle part of it alittle easier and probably do the hangers as well for the hell ofit so i wont have to again anytime soon. oh and yeah im getting extended ranchos the stock front bilsteins dont have much room for expansion anyway