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AC Evaporator leaking from coolant flush?...


Joined
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Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
2008 Ranger, 2WD, 3.0 liter 6 cylinder.

90K miles.

So, I followed coolant flush directions from chrisfix on youtube who is pretty good, he's got like 10 mil subs.

I:

1) Drained the radiator and reservoir.

2) Filled radiator with just distilled and drove about 30 mins with heater on (heat was really hot). Noticed some dripping from radiator after parking and couldn't trace location.

3) drained and refilled with coolant flush + distilled. Drove for 3-6 hours as per flush label, with heater on often (also used AC sometimes because it got really hot in the truck). Noticed some leaking again when parked and cold engine radiator level was down a couple inches and not much left in reservoir.

4) Drained and REMOVED THE THERMOSTAT. Refilled with just distilled.

5) Idled for 10 minutes with heater on thinking it'd be enough to get temperature gauge %50 but it only ever got about %20 instead of in the middle. So I drove it about 30 minutes with heat on but heat wasn't that hot and gauge still only got to about %20.

6) Parked and noticed AC accumulator was cold and condensation despite didn't use the AC. Noticed about 1-2 cups of water leaking from where seems to be the AC Evaporator. (as shown in photo the circled area it seems to be coming from).

Figured it was running hot/high pressure and busted some sorta seal, so I figured I'll finish the flush process until the water drains clear, fill with 50/50 coolant/water so I can actually drive for work etc, and then I'll try and find the leak problem and reuse the 50/50 if I have to drain it all to fix/replace parts.

7) drained that round of water and refilled again with distilled and drove about 15 mins with heat on and same thing happens, only %20 temp gauge and heater not that hot. Check Engine pops up P0128 COOLANT THERMOSTAT ) COOLANT TEMPERATURE BELOW THERMOSTAT REGULATING TEMPERATURE).

8) drained that round of water and now wondering what to do.


Someone said it's because the engine is running too cold because the thermostat was removed and not keeping the water in one area to heat it up long enough, that the radiator heatsink grill and fan is cooling it down too much.

I'm hoping the 1-2 cups water leaked from where seems to be the Evaporator is some sort of pressure release valve or something but IDK. If I have to replace parts I will.

I guess now I'll reinstall the thermostat, and keep filling and draining distilled water until it runs clear, using the heater on and off while driving about 10-15 minutes between rounds. And then refill with 50/50.

THANK YOU
 

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55trucker

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True...if one does not have the stat installed the engine temp will remain quite low for the reasons given you.
While you were operating the vehicle with the A/C engaged.....what position was the selector in? max A/C by any chance?
If so the vacuum operated water control shutoff valve on top of the engine in the heater supply hose will close not allowing hot coolant to flow the the heater core so the evap core gets cold cold & the air in the cab is recirculated.
*Not using the A/C*....the compressor will engage in all positions except floor & off, isn't really necessary in my opinion but there it is.
The water you saw under the vehicle from the evap core would be normal.
Did you get the stat centred in the stat housing?
I'm not a Youtube follower......I prefer the Ford Service manual for directions
 
Joined
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Ranger
Transmission
Automatic
all good now, coolant flush complete after reinstalling thermostat. I did 5 flushes , 4 woulda been enough probably but 5th was really clear (not crystal clear but ok and wanted to make sure no more flush product left in the system) used about 18 gallons or something when it was all said and done. I didn't use any hose water at all since distilled is only about $1.10 a gallon was worth the peace of mind IMHO to not worry about contamination although I don't have hard water or anything but still.
The coolant I used says good for 300,000 miles or 10 years so it's basically good for the lifespan of the truck.

Apparently all the water I saw dripping from the EVAPORATOR area was normal, thankfully. When I saw check engine come on I thought I blew engine or something! It just was saying coolant was too cold.

Yes when I used the heat I had it set to upper and lower, and when I found this out and only used upper, the AC wouldn't also turn on and cause all that evaporation.

someone on youtube mentioned my truck holds about 2.5 gallons coolant, and I was draining and refilling almost exactly that much each time, so I didn't worry about 'draining the block' from below to make sure no water trapped in there and this alter the 50-50 coolant ratio I was going for, apparently basically all the water did drain, and no on really even drains the block so I'm confident it's all good.

REPLIES:
Originally Posted by rogerranger2122 View Post
6) Parked and noticed AC accumulator was cold and condensation despite didn't use the AC. Noticed about 1-2 cups of water leaking from where seems to be the AC Evaporator. (as shown in photo the circled area it seems to be coming from).
It was cold because the AC was on. The AC works in every position except OFF, FLOOR ONLY, and VENT. If you have it on any setting except those three the AC will run.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rogerranger2122 View Post
I'm hoping the 1-2 cups water leaked from where seems to be the Evaporator is some sort of pressure release valve or something but IDK. If I have to replace parts I will.
The only pressure release is the radiator cap. There is no other.

The water you are seeing is condensation from the AC. That's normal.

--------------------------------------------
True...if one does not have the stat installed the engine temp will remain quite low for the reasons given you.
While you were operating the vehicle with the A/C engaged.....what position was the selector in? max A/C by any chance?
If so the vacuum operated water control shutoff valve on top of the engine in the heater supply hose will close not allowing hot coolant to flow the the heater core so the evap core gets cold cold & the air in the cab is recirculated.
*Not using the A/C*....the compressor will engage in all positions except floor & off, isn't really necessary in my opinion but there it is.
The water you saw under the vehicle from the evap core would be normal.
Did you get the stat centred in the stat housing?
I'm not a Youtube follower......I prefer the Ford Service manual for directions

-----------------

If you have the heater on defrost the AC runs as part of the cycle. Also yes, not having a thermostat will not let you get to operating temperature. That is part of what a thermostat does.
 

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