A few Odds and ends Questions

[nate12346]

Hey guys! It has been a long time since I have been back here. Finally working for the summer so I can start working on my BII again.

I have a 1994 4.0L explorer sport V6 in it with the 5 speed tranny.

These are the plans I have to get done for the month and the questions behind them.

1. Add an explorer 5.0L Radiator to my BII. (before the turbo charger goes in.)
Do the 5.0 Radiators bolt on or do I have to modify and re-drill mounting spots?

2. Install new head gaskets (maybe entire engine gaskets. so I can run synthetic engine oil)
How Hard is this to do in a garage? and about how long?

3.Replace the clutch.
Again is this doable in a garage with basic tools and clutch specific tools?

Thank you all in advance!

 

[freerider6_9]

Not to sure about the rad but im you will have to make new mounting points.

Change all the engine seals and gaskets to run synthetic? why? you can do all these things in your garage and time depends how mechanically inclined you are. Yes if it needs head gaskets put them in but to run synthetic you dont have to change all the seals. when you do do the head gaskets get new bolts as they are a use once item(torque to yeild) and get the proper torque sequence and specs. just change the seals that are leaking. If its not broke then why fix it?

Yes you can pull the tranny and do the clutch job with basic hand tools, take the flexplate out and get it machined then when putting the new clutch on use the alignment tool that comes in the kit and makes sure its centered within the "fingers" and torqe to spec.

hope this helps

 

[nate12346]

Thanks yeah that helps. I am very mechanically inclined. but it will be a first for me to do all the gaskets. I am pretty sure my head gasket is seeping coolant, and i have a few very small oil drips here and there, but when synthetic is run through, it turns into a siv. I want to run synthetic for when my turbo charger is installed to give it a little better lube and less friction.

Anyone know about the 5.0 radiator?

 

[88BII got it for $250]

Synthetic is a MUST for any turbo car/truck, you dont have a choice.
as far as all the gaskets, i did my lower intake and valve covers with ease, and engine in the truck. but as far as the oil pan, it can be a pain..... best way to do all gaskets is to pull the engine. (just what i think) as long as you have an engine picker, it shouldnt be an issue and you should be able to do it all in a weekend.

 

[CraigK]

"I am pretty sure my head gasket is seeping coolant, and i have a few very small oil drips here and there, but when synthetic is run through, it turns into a siv."

What makes you think this is a head gasket issue? Where exactly are the drips of oil? How do you know coolant is affected?

CraigK

 

[Clem]

Curious about the head gaskets, why you changing them? How do you know you have a leak?
If the coolant level is dropping and you don't see any sign of coolant on the ground where you park, remove the radiator cap when the engine is cold - start it up and watch for bubbles in the coolant. (be advised, if the engine runs with the cap off, when the thermostat opens it is going to puke coolant out the radiator fill hole). If you are loosing coolant and have moisture coming out of the exhaust, (this could also be caused by the gas you are getting) you may have more problems that are going to cost $$$$. #1-Coolant in the oil? It is attacking your engine bearings, they are not going to last very long if this is happening, for some reason I do not under stand, the coolant and oil mix cause electrolysis which ruins main, rod, and cam bearings. (it doesn't take very long for this to happen, a few thousand miles). #2-if you have coolant coming out the exhaust it is passing through your catalytic converter, this has coated the beads and rendered them useless, (not an issue in a non-emissions area) in the end you will need to replace the cat as coolant is worse than oil in the cat).
If you are loosing coolant and it isn't a visible leak, changing the head gaskets and stopping there will just prolong the problem and you will have to either replace the engine or do a complete overhaul at a later date. Best advice, find the problem and cure it, and keep in mind what I wrote above. I have seen engines totally destroyed in as little as 1500 miles because someone changes the head gaskets for an internal leak and didn't go any further.

 

[nate12346]

What makes you think this is a head gasket issue? Where exactly are the drips of oil? How do you know coolant is affected?

Im pretty sure the coolant is just evaporating with the crappy old cap that is on the radiator. I haven't had any signs of coolant in the oil or oil in my coolant. both stay clean. And I just ordered a performance 4.0L radiator instead of a 5.0L one.

The reason I want to do a gasket overhaul is because the engine is 15 years old and I'm about to throw a turbo charger on the 4.0L. I want a performance gasket kit that wont blow out from the pressure. Im not running insane pressure, but I want this engine to last.

As for the oil leaks, I just went out and looked the whole engine over and it looks to be a rear main seal. Which if I remember it is a huge pain... There is oil all around where the bellhousing attaches to the engine. And a leak seems to be coming from the 5 speed manual transmission where it attaches to the t-case. so I guess I need different gaskets but a few need to be replaced or new parts ordered.

 

[Hahnsb2]

I bet it's the intake manifold gasket and valve cover gaskets. Mine also had oil all over the back of it. I changed them while the engine was out, and since putting it in my B2 I put Mobil 1 in it before I ever started it and have run the same oil since August (about 5000 Miles) and it hasn't used or leaked a single drop.