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97 Ford Ranger SuperGotScrewed


99 Problems

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Age
45
Location
Great Bend Kansas
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford Ranger Sup
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
I have had this truck for 2 months, didn't even go for it but I got screwed with the denial of the Buick I went for and no way home they say this is all we have for you. My ex husband had just traded my 94 Splash, my dad bought it new and gifted me, since I loved that truck, somedays, I said okay as if I had a choice. It was clean, seemed nice enough although my dad is the mechanic not I. Not only did it run out of gas on my 3 hour drive home it also went rogue on the highway and wouldn't slow down below 80!! Spent awhile in the ditch with some sheriff's until they finally let me drive it rest of the way home after they police escorted me to my county line, 15mph with lights and all. The gas pedal got wedged under the floor mat, hilarious right. Two later the thing locks up on the highway, advice and paid for new fuel pump. The next week, advice for kicking back so hard, transmission. Pulled over on my birthday for no license lights. The dome light is like always on. Always running put of gas, unless sometimes it starts and goes or it doesn't. It took 3 guus at Autozone to get my damn hood latched. Last night, truck was fine, drove it all day doordashing. Today, first thing a slight grind and brake went all the floor. Off and on all day with this, I gave up it sounds like a train, kicks back like it would be the transmission, sounds like back drivers side yet both front wheels have thick black dust. I can't imagine what else could go wrong after only 2 months. The owner before was one lucky SOB
 


franklin2

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Bronco II
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Manual
You do have to put fuel in a vehicle for it to run. If you have a trip odometer and the speedo works, fill the tank till the station nozzle shuts off. Note how many gallons and then go in a reset the trip odometer to zero.

Drive it till you hit 250 miles on the trip odometer. Time to go to the station again. Fill it up again till the nozzle shuts it off. Note how many gallons it took, and reset the trip odometer to zero again before leaving the station.

This works very well and if you do the same type of driving everyday, can be way more accurate than the fuel gauge. If you keep fueling and resetting trip odometer at 250 miles, but each time you are putting less gallons in when you fill it, then you know you can up the 250 miles a little bit. You can try 275. With my Bronco when I had it running good I could do 300 miles per fill-up.
 

franklin2

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P.S. Not sure you realize this, a 1997 truck is close to 25 years old. In most states you can get antique tags for it. A vehicle that old is going to have problems, some of them serious. If you can work on it yourself, it works out sometimes. If you have to pay a garage to work on it, it will never work out. If you can't work on it yourself, you will be better off to buy a newer vehicle and make payments on it. Preferably one that doesn't need a lot of work.
 

rusty ol ranger

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Vehicle Year
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Ford
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
177 CID
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Ill give you 200 cash for it.

Welcome to TRS
 

Blmpkn

Toilet enthusiast
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Location
Southern maine
Vehicle Year
2023
Make / Model
Ford Bronco
Engine Type
2.3 EcoBoost
Engine Size
2.3
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
2.5"
Tire Size
285/75/18
My credo
Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
Don't mind rusty, he's a smartass lol.

Sorry to hear about your troubles, and welcome.

There's a ton of helpful people here willing to provide advice/tips/tricks to you and your new ranger.

Even rusty 😅
 

Uncle Gump

Token Old Guy
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2WD / 4WD
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My credo
Lead follow or get out of my way
Ill give you 200 cash for it.

Welcome to TRS
:ban:

I have had this truck for 2 months, didn't even go for it but I got screwed with the denial of the Buick I went for and no way home they say this is all we have for you. My ex husband had just traded my 94 Splash, my dad bought it new and gifted me, since I loved that truck, somedays, I said okay as if I had a choice. It was clean, seemed nice enough although my dad is the mechanic not I. Not only did it run out of gas on my 3 hour drive home it also went rogue on the highway and wouldn't slow down below 80!! Spent awhile in the ditch with some sheriff's until they finally let me drive it rest of the way home after they police escorted me to my county line, 15mph with lights and all. The gas pedal got wedged under the floor mat, hilarious right. Two later the thing locks up on the highway, advice and paid for new fuel pump. The next week, advice for kicking back so hard, transmission. Pulled over on my birthday for no license lights. The dome light is like always on. Always running put of gas, unless sometimes it starts and goes or it doesn't. It took 3 guus at Autozone to get my damn hood latched. Last night, truck was fine, drove it all day doordashing. Today, first thing a slight grind and brake went all the floor. Off and on all day with this, I gave up it sounds like a train, kicks back like it would be the transmission, sounds like back drivers side yet both front wheels have thick black dust. I can't imagine what else could go wrong after only 2 months. The owner before was one lucky SOB
Sorry your Splash got nixed for something you don't have now... total bummer. Some folks would consider the Ranger a better choice then perhaps a newer Buick with who knows what problems it may have.... myself being one of them. Lots of Rangers like your new to you 2WD 4.0L... have gone 300k with even poor maintenance and some fixes along the way. If you're remotely determined to save a few dollars... with some basic tools... some of it can be done by you. But you will bust a knuckle and get dirty in the process. It will totally ruin a perfectly good manicure too... this I've only heard about with no personal experience.

So... brake pedal to the floor? This only happens one of two ways. Brake fluid loss somewhere or master cylinder failure. So if the brake fluid reservoir is full... or even low but not empty... it isn't losing brake fluid. I would say the master cylinder needs replaced. I would however... since it's now yours and really need to have the overall health of it inspected. At a minimum... pull all 4 wheels inspect and correct all brake issues you may find and put a master cylinder on it.

How do you eat an elephant... one bite at a time.

Welcome to TRS...
 

99 Problems

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Age
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Location
Great Bend Kansas
Vehicle Year
1997
Make / Model
Ford Ranger Sup
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Front and back brakes had to be replaced and 2 days later it's not wanting to reverse and unless it's in drive just right it feels and sounds like a bird flew in an airplane engine fan. I swear I cry everyday, I can't take it anymore. I have to sell it, im out of money, can't even pay the payments now. I can't believe I am so stupid. I just can't belive how much I've had to spend on this junk
 

rusty ol ranger

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Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
177 CID
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
Front and back brakes had to be replaced and 2 days later it's not wanting to reverse and unless it's in drive just right it feels and sounds like a bird flew in an airplane engine fan. I swear I cry everyday, I can't take it anymore. I have to sell it, im out of money, can't even pay the payments now. I can't believe I am so stupid. I just can't belive how much I've had to spend on this junk
Im sorry about your situation but...

You also bought a 28 year old vehicle. Its going to need things.
 

Angie

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V8 Engine Swap
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92 & 83 project
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Ford
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V8
Engine Size
4.0L 302
Transmission
Automatic
welcome, sorry to hear you didn't get a rose, but have to ask, did you get it from a used lot? you said payments? ouch. i could never fathom making payments for an old truck.

Joys of destroying all the good used vehicles years ago with "cash4clunkers" we have the same problem here and many very good used vehicles were destroyed for no reason making the second hand market very tight.

too bad you aren't close to me i could help you rebuild it.

if you decide to hang in there with the truck, as mentioned above, many resourceful people here to help you along the way.
 

Kruegon

Member
U.S. Military - Veteran
Joined
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35
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Location
Birmingham, AL
Vehicle Year
2000
Make / Model
Ford Ranger XLT
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L V6 Flex
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
4"
Total Drop
0"
My credo
Speed Limit 70 (Chevy, Just Do Your Best)
That sounds horrible on milage. Haven't made a long drive since I rebuilt the motor, but pre-rebuild, I could easily get 400+ miles per tank on the highway. 2000 with a 3.0L Flex.

Little over 250 miles one way was a standard trip for a long time. I could go down and well over half way back before filling up.again.

When you say it has run out of gas several times, did it running out of gas match the gas guage? If it's running out but the guage shows gas, you may need a new guage. Either on the cluster or the float in the tank.

The kicking back, depending on when it is happening, could be the transmission. There is also a small chance it could be U-joint or spider gear related. Had a work truck that the spider gears were going out on and it would bind up and kick back from time to time. Eventually they sheared and the boss finally believed I had rear end issue.

I'm on my second Ranger. I don't ride the brakes or brake hard normally. I've had brake issues on both. I rebuilt the calipers and changed type of pads last time and that helped a metric ton.

If the dome light is perpetually on, this suggests a short. Most likely in one of the door switches or the dash switch. Nether are particularly expensive or complicated to install. But you do have to pull 4 dash panels if that is the problem. I can pull all 4 panels in about 6 minutes with a drill. About 3 minutes to swap the switch. About 8 minutes to install the panels. Granted I know all the screws in it now days, but even for a novce an hour or less is reasonable.

Sounds like you have a few moderate to serious issues and several minor issues. Only you can determine if she's worth the money and effort to you. Good luck. I am sure she has the potential to be a great truck.
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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Roanoke VA
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1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
A vehicle that old is going to have problems, some of them serious.
That's not necessarily true, I mean, it depends what you mean by serious I suppose, some things are serious in the sense they could leave you stranded but not serious from a fix standpoint.
Case in point my '97, so far I really haven't found much on it. True that rad had a slow leak, this I knew when I looked at it (despite dealer claiming no leak), and the tensioner was cocked at an angle and when I took it out it fell apart so I I had replaced that and put new belt and upper rad hose (lower looked new). Neither very hard to do or very expensive, just, rad work is messy.
Granted dealer had replaced wheel bearings and drums and rotors so big plus there. I get a drip of oil here/there so I suspect oil pan gasket but haven't scoped that out yet but it's not so much that you see the oil level changing so not worrying too much about it right now but I do want to track it down. Dealer had also replaced heater valve and upper MAF (it threw CEL on it when I tried it).
I think some of these old trucks were sitting around a while not being driven much and/or the person knew they were getting rid of it so they just let stuff go bad.
The main issue on old trucks is some parts will become hard to find. The truck doesn't know how old it is. Some things like rubber/plastic may degrade, don't see it on mine, but I have for sure seen it. To me the design is good, they have what they need and no more (example - new trucks have +/- buttons for cruise but you already have this feature in the older trucks without extra buttons), and way easier to work on (for a lot of things) than newer vehicles. OK, I also had to replace cruise buttons and left tailgate latch, but those seem to always be bad (had the same things on the '99). Again not expensive nor hard to do. Anyway, now I have a truck that everything works, no immediate issues as far as I know. I will have to get tires at some point. You didn't mention the miles on yours because that for sure is important, I have 125k so not bad considering the age.
But I was looking for a long time before I got it versus it sounds like you were kind of in a bind. Will I find other stuff wrong, it could happen, not seeing anything yet, but it wouldn't surprise me.
I know it's a real bummer when stuff seems to just self destruct but here's the thing, there probably is nothing that can't be fixed and make it reliable. Just go one thing at a time. Dome light - doesn't stop you from driving it, take out the bulb when you park or don't need it and chase it later. Black dust on wheels is brake dust, it will accumulate, but excessive in a short time to me would say the rotors are eating the pads so have the rotors turned (good luck) or just get new and put on. But you'll always have some dust that's just the pads wearing. Brakes not working is critical, and you already have advice on that. Pull the wheels and look at the drums and rotors and maybe swap out the wheel cylinders but it doesn't sound like it... you'll see if they leak or not, to me with the whole thing apart you might as well do them as they aren't expensive either. Use crowfoot wrench made specifically for the connectors.
Usually parts are the minor part of a job, labor is so high today that's what kills you, so unless you are rich you kind of have to assume you will do these things. And if you were rich, you would have got a '23 right? But of all old trucks to get, I think '97 is a really good year so if you can get past the bum-out part I think you can get it to the point where you feel confident in it.
Hood latch problem sounds like cable isn't springing back if it wasn't latching, again, should be easy fix. Might be the first thing, heh. Maybe just work it back/forth (the release), maybe lube... guys here would know. License plate lights, probably bulbs... good idea to do a walk-around on all your lights on a 'new' vehicle because you know they will stop you if they can.
The bucking or kicking I have no idea what that is but again people here know everything. Just describe one issue at a time starting with the most serious. If you're going to do the work, get a shop manual. If you are like, no, I'm not working on it, then get set for some big repair bills (labor) and consider getting rid of it, but somebody will probably take that truck and get it 100% working fine. I had a slew of stuff on the '99 and got through all of it, the '97 I was just lucky, well, not really luck since I knew what I was looking for and looked at quite a few before I got it, plus, we don't know what the future holds. But I don't drive lots and rarely go that far from home, if I were driving long distances or big commutes it might not be for me but on the other hand if all is up to snuff there's no reason for it to be much less reliable than a new truck and I'm in it, including fixes, for less than a decent down payment on a new truck. And I like it being classic (ok, antique).
Floor mat causing stuck throttle pedal is fairly common (at least, I've had it happen). They tend to work their way forward as you settle in, some have a hole to engage a pin so they don't do that, but I've taken to doing a quick visual as I'm getting in to make sure I have a good couple inches of clearance. If it happens in town not a super huge deal if you cut the ignition right away, but I can see that on the highway it would be totally dicey.
Things wear out... what you are dealing with, I think, isn't things suddenly breaking, they've been going bad for a while. You are essentially in shakedown mode, finding out what you need to do to make it good.
I am interested to find out what happens with the kick-back/tranny whatever, it doesn't sound familiar to me but then my experience is limited.
If you can't imagine what else can go wrong, take a look at a shop manual and after that you realize they are complicated with thousands of parts and in a way amazing they work at all. You just have to ask, what is preventing me from driving this truck and do those first, other stuff that is bothersome but not critical, leave for later.
Post pics of truck?
 

superj

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corpus christi, texas
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2004
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ranger edge
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3.0 V6
Engine Size
3 liters of tire smoking power
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
none
Total Drop
none
Tire Size
235s
My credo
Grew up in the 70s, 80s, and 90s
she might be done here. no replies ina bit.

i hope she got that truck driveable
 

James Morse

1997 XLT 4.0L 4x4 1999 Mazda B3000 2wd
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1997 and 1999
Make / Model
XLT 4x4 & B3000
Engine Type
4.0 V6
Engine Size
4.0L in XLT, 3.0L in B3000
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Tire Size
31x10.5-15 K02's on the Ranger, 235/75R15 on Mazda
My credo
The perfect is the enemy of the good.
heh, yeah... too bad well maybe she will update us at some point. it can be discouraging when it seems like it's one thing after another but it can happen.
my '99 would have been about perfect for her door dash with its rear doors and nothing to fix.
right now it's my truck for when it's raining, so I don't have to clean the XLT, but kind of hard to justify.
used prices are coming down I'll probably do a major price cut on the '99, haven't seriously tried to sell it yet.
 

franklin2

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Vehicle Year
1984
Make / Model
Bronco II
Transmission
Manual
That's not necessarily true, I mean, it depends what you mean by serious I suppose, some things are serious in the sense they could leave you stranded but not serious from a fix standpoint.
Case in point my '97, so far I really haven't found much on it. True that rad had a slow leak, this I knew when I looked at it (despite dealer claiming no leak), and the tensioner was cocked at an angle and when I took it out it fell apart so I I had replaced that and put new belt and upper rad hose (lower looked new). Neither very hard to do or very expensive, just, rad work is messy.
Granted dealer had replaced wheel bearings and drums and rotors so big plus there. I get a drip of oil here/there so I suspect oil pan gasket but haven't scoped that out yet but it's not so much that you see the oil level changing so not worrying too much about it right now but I do want to track it down. Dealer had also replaced heater valve and upper MAF (it threw CEL on it when I tried it).
I think some of these old trucks were sitting around a while not being driven much and/or the person knew they were getting rid of it so they just let stuff go bad.
The main issue on old trucks is some parts will become hard to find. The truck doesn't know how old it is. Some things like rubber/plastic may degrade, don't see it on mine, but I have for sure seen it. To me the design is good, they have what they need and no more (example - new trucks have +/- buttons for cruise but you already have this feature in the older trucks without extra buttons), and way easier to work on (for a lot of things) than newer vehicles. OK, I also had to replace cruise buttons and left tailgate latch, but those seem to always be bad (had the same things on the '99). Again not expensive nor hard to do. Anyway, now I have a truck that everything works, no immediate issues as far as I know. I will have to get tires at some point. You didn't mention the miles on yours because that for sure is important, I have 125k so not bad considering the age.
But I was looking for a long time before I got it versus it sounds like you were kind of in a bind. Will I find other stuff wrong, it could happen, not seeing anything yet, but it wouldn't surprise me.
I know it's a real bummer when stuff seems to just self destruct but here's the thing, there probably is nothing that can't be fixed and make it reliable. Just go one thing at a time. Dome light - doesn't stop you from driving it, take out the bulb when you park or don't need it and chase it later. Black dust on wheels is brake dust, it will accumulate, but excessive in a short time to me would say the rotors are eating the pads so have the rotors turned (good luck) or just get new and put on. But you'll always have some dust that's just the pads wearing. Brakes not working is critical, and you already have advice on that. Pull the wheels and look at the drums and rotors and maybe swap out the wheel cylinders but it doesn't sound like it... you'll see if they leak or not, to me with the whole thing apart you might as well do them as they aren't expensive either. Use crowfoot wrench made specifically for the connectors.
Usually parts are the minor part of a job, labor is so high today that's what kills you, so unless you are rich you kind of have to assume you will do these things. And if you were rich, you would have got a '23 right? But of all old trucks to get, I think '97 is a really good year so if you can get past the bum-out part I think you can get it to the point where you feel confident in it.
Hood latch problem sounds like cable isn't springing back if it wasn't latching, again, should be easy fix. Might be the first thing, heh. Maybe just work it back/forth (the release), maybe lube... guys here would know. License plate lights, probably bulbs... good idea to do a walk-around on all your lights on a 'new' vehicle because you know they will stop you if they can.
The bucking or kicking I have no idea what that is but again people here know everything. Just describe one issue at a time starting with the most serious. If you're going to do the work, get a shop manual. If you are like, no, I'm not working on it, then get set for some big repair bills (labor) and consider getting rid of it, but somebody will probably take that truck and get it 100% working fine. I had a slew of stuff on the '99 and got through all of it, the '97 I was just lucky, well, not really luck since I knew what I was looking for and looked at quite a few before I got it, plus, we don't know what the future holds. But I don't drive lots and rarely go that far from home, if I were driving long distances or big commutes it might not be for me but on the other hand if all is up to snuff there's no reason for it to be much less reliable than a new truck and I'm in it, including fixes, for less than a decent down payment on a new truck. And I like it being classic (ok, antique).
Floor mat causing stuck throttle pedal is fairly common (at least, I've had it happen). They tend to work their way forward as you settle in, some have a hole to engage a pin so they don't do that, but I've taken to doing a quick visual as I'm getting in to make sure I have a good couple inches of clearance. If it happens in town not a super huge deal if you cut the ignition right away, but I can see that on the highway it would be totally dicey.
Things wear out... what you are dealing with, I think, isn't things suddenly breaking, they've been going bad for a while. You are essentially in shakedown mode, finding out what you need to do to make it good.
I am interested to find out what happens with the kick-back/tranny whatever, it doesn't sound familiar to me but then my experience is limited.
If you can't imagine what else can go wrong, take a look at a shop manual and after that you realize they are complicated with thousands of parts and in a way amazing they work at all. You just have to ask, what is preventing me from driving this truck and do those first, other stuff that is bothersome but not critical, leave for later.
Post pics of truck?
I consider radiators, tensioners, wheel bearings, etc. serious. Not for the experienced mechanic of course, but these are not normal things that break on a newer car.

A newer car or truck all you have to change is the oil/filter, brake pads/shoes, belts and hoses and keep the fluids topped off. Normal maintenance. Usually when a car or truck gets about 10 years old, that's when the more serious things start happening.
 

rusty ol ranger

2.9 Mafia-Don
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Michigan
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Engine Size
177 CID
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
My credo
A legend to the old man, a hero to the child...
I consider radiators, tensioners, wheel bearings, etc. serious. Not for the experienced mechanic of course, but these are not normal things that break on a newer car.
Its all subjective.

I wouldnt consider any of those things serious.

Serious would be...say...an oil pump. Or sending a rod into orbit, or seeing how many parts you can scatter a differential into
 

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