96 Manual clutch wont dinsengage

[96STranger]

Hey yall. I have used TRS for all sorts of info (which is substantial), but I finally have an issue that I need the community's help on: I have a 96 2.3 manual and I have just replaced the clutch and pressure plate and slave cylinder. I originally replaced it because one day the clutch just stopped grabbing. It would change gears, but slip with more than half throttle applied. Now i have bled the clutch like 5 times (trying different internet tips and techniques) but the pedal still feels soft, as in there is nearly no resistance until about half way down. I can see the slave cylinder moving but it doesn't seem to have the throw needed to disengage the clutch apparently. That is my issue now. It won't disengage. I am pretty sure there is no air in the system at this point. I'm out of ideas. Help please!
Thanks,
Erik

 

[adsm08]

There is air in the system.

Go to a parts store, get a vacuum/pressure bleeder pump. Use the little container with the lid that has two nubs on it, stick a piece of line on the inside nipple, and fill the container with brake fluid. Open your bleeder, stick a cone end on your outlet hose, and stick it into the hole in the bottom of the clutch reservoir. Then use the pressure feature to push brake fluid down the line.

This will get the air bubble stuck in the U of the hose pushed out.

 

[96STranger]

i will give it a try, thanks. I'll report what I find when I have something.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I have always done the gravity bleed. Once it runs clear... close it up. I have used my handheld vacuum pump on the bleeder to get the fluid flowing but still allow it to gravity bleed once fluid is moving. Most I've done work fine here. If pedal is still not right... Have someone operate the pedal while someone man's the bleeder screw. With pedal at the top... bleeder man opens bleeder... pedal man slowly pushes pedal down til close to bottom and holds.... bleeder man closes bleeder. Pedal man lets the pedal up. Repeat until all air is out. Never really had a problem.

adsm describes power bleeding. I'm sure on stubborn vehicles or working alone... this method is effective.

I've also seen bench bleeding and maybe some other takes on getting air out. Anyone have another method?

The tech section has both the gravity and power bleeding outlined. I know this issue pops up often and if there is another way... lets update the existing tech article. Could get yourself an Article Contributor banner... and who doesn't want one of those... I know I do!

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I use a homemade vacuum bleed setup with a mason jar and 2 holes drilled slightly smaller than some clear vinyl hose. One hose about 4 feet long to go to the nipple. The other long enough to reach from the passenger rear tire to a vacuum source on the engine. So it can be used for brakes too.
Uses running engine as vacuum source.

 

[drunk_uncle]

I did see on a video last night that if the friction disc is put in backwards, it will not disengage.

 

[curtis73]

Just a question, not a judgement... did you use a cheap clutch?

Mine has been a constant problem for 2 years now. Previous owner did a complete clutch job; slave, master, resurfaced flywheel, pilot bushing, the works. It won't disengage. I have now bled it 8 times, including forward, backward, and even with a fancy powered reverse flush pump called something like a "viper" or some other weird trade name. No change. Three shops have tried to bleed/diagnose it and they're just as clueless as I am.

My only guess is that the PO used a cheap clutch and the spring fingers in the diaphragm have a few that are broken, bent, or otherwise not working right. I can't think of anything else that it could be. It's not leaking externally or internally. It doesn't matter how long I hold the pedal to the floor, it's not leaking and letting the clutch slowly engage. If I hold it to the floor for 2 seconds or 20 minutes, it is no different. It doesn't matter what I do, there is just enough dragging that I can't get it into gear, I have to wait until the RPMs slow down until it will upshift, and it is constantly causing the truck to creep the tiniest bit at a stop.

I'm going to have to pull the transmission and I'm not happy about it.

 

[Josh B]

When he resurfaced the flywheel it would then require a spacer to replace the amount shaved. If he did not put one then there will be disengagement problems

Edit addition: Once I learned of that fact I chose to use a new replacement flywheel over resurfaced

 

[Josh B]

I'm going to have to pull the transmission and I'm not happy about it.

You could look at it in a very minor different way.
The first time you pull it may take a day or a week.
The next time you will cut those lengths in half, and even do a better job of it
Given enough time(and the right motivation) you'll be dropping that thing on the side of the highway, in the middle of the night, in a pouring rain, Blindfolded! And not even muss your clothes

 

[curtis73]

When he resurfaced the flywheel it would then require a spacer to replace the amount shaved. If he did not put one then there will be disengagement problems

Edit addition: Once I learned of that fact I chose to use a new replacement flywheel over resurfaced

Disagree... there would be engagement problems.

 

[snoranger]

Disagree... there would be engagement problems.

I’ve got $20 that says “you’re wrong”...

 

[Josh B]

Disagree... there would be engagement problems.

What does it really matter, either way, it's gonna have a problem