94Rang4.0
New Member
- Joined
- Nov 11, 2021
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 2
- Points
- 3
- Location
- Colts neck, nj
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Transmission
- Automatic
Hey All, been a long time viewer of this forum but never made a post but this issue I'm having is making me insane.
ABS light is on and brake is on dim. I've tested and replaced alot of components in my quest to figure out this issue as I've found issue along the way.
Here is what I've done:
-New RABS valve(leaking from blessed)
-New master cylinder (signs of leakage and snap ring half missing but somehow still locked in)
-New booster(leak internally)
-New front calipers and hoses
-New bleeders rear
I've bled and bled and bled thinking RABS still has air in it(waiting on a vacuum bleeder to try more bleeding)
I didn't try to bleed from RABS bleeder because of mixed opinions I saw on forums about needing to do this. I did however bleed it with a short brake line attached to the output side of the RABS before attaching the line that goes to the rear.
I pulled abs codes prior to all this work and got code 4. Open or ground dump valve. I have gone through the steps to diagnose short/ground etc. But I'm stuck on 4.7 and 4.8. are these tests supposed to be done with abs and rabs connectors installed and back prob rabs connector. If left unplugged my readings are high. All plugged in and back probing I get 10k ohms on pin 2 and valve body on rabs. Good. 4.8 is to check ohms from pin 2 to pin 3 on rabs. With installed and back probing I get 10k ohms but range is supposed to be 18-26 k ohms. Could this be a corroded connector? I have another junkyard abs module and I get the same readings. What is chances I have 2 abs modules with same problem?
Other than checking and cleaning connections for the 100th time and maybe bleeding again, I don't know what else to do. Maybe buy a "new" abs module?
Please any help on this would be awesome. And I will definitely follow up with solution if it's ever figured out
ABS light is on and brake is on dim. I've tested and replaced alot of components in my quest to figure out this issue as I've found issue along the way.
Here is what I've done:
-New RABS valve(leaking from blessed)
-New master cylinder (signs of leakage and snap ring half missing but somehow still locked in)
-New booster(leak internally)
-New front calipers and hoses
-New bleeders rear
I've bled and bled and bled thinking RABS still has air in it(waiting on a vacuum bleeder to try more bleeding)
I didn't try to bleed from RABS bleeder because of mixed opinions I saw on forums about needing to do this. I did however bleed it with a short brake line attached to the output side of the RABS before attaching the line that goes to the rear.
I pulled abs codes prior to all this work and got code 4. Open or ground dump valve. I have gone through the steps to diagnose short/ground etc. But I'm stuck on 4.7 and 4.8. are these tests supposed to be done with abs and rabs connectors installed and back prob rabs connector. If left unplugged my readings are high. All plugged in and back probing I get 10k ohms on pin 2 and valve body on rabs. Good. 4.8 is to check ohms from pin 2 to pin 3 on rabs. With installed and back probing I get 10k ohms but range is supposed to be 18-26 k ohms. Could this be a corroded connector? I have another junkyard abs module and I get the same readings. What is chances I have 2 abs modules with same problem?
Other than checking and cleaning connections for the 100th time and maybe bleeding again, I don't know what else to do. Maybe buy a "new" abs module?
Please any help on this would be awesome. And I will definitely follow up with solution if it's ever figured out