Welcome Visitor! Please take a few seconds and 94' Ranger
Member
- Joined
- Jan 17, 2021
- Messages
- 36
- Reaction score
- 17
- Points
- 8
- Location
- Southern California
- Vehicle Year
- 1994
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger
- Engine Type
- 3.0 V6
- Transmission
- Manual
- 2WD / 4WD
- 2WD
- Tire Size
- 15in rims + Falken AT3
The other day I began to hear a minor squeak from my breaks so I decided to take a look.
My front pads were at 2mm after about 11,000 miles and it looked like my drums hadn't worn since the last brake job I did which was almost a year ago. After replacing my front pads with some Centric semi-metallics, I jacked up the rear wheels, spun them, applied brakes, and there was 0 stopping power whatsoever in the rear. I adjusted them as much as possible (made my E-Brake work wayy better), but still no stoppage from my rear brakes.
I checked the rear bleed valves for clean fluid and good flow but only got 3-5 drops of dirty dot 3 per pump. I checked for good flow at every junction on my rear brake lines I could find till I hit the ABS hydraulic assembly. I removed it, bought a new one for a steep price of ~150$ at the local parts shop (O'Reilly's Remanufactured ABS Hydraulic Assembly), and installed the new one without too much difficulty. I went to check my rear brakes again and noticed my ABS light was on but my rear brakes were now able to stop my wheels during a free spin.
I bled my right rear then left rear bleed valves and was happy to find strong fluid flow at both. I bled until there were no air bubbles and cleaner fluid running through the lines and called it a day.
The next day I noticed my red brake light and the ABS light were both on but my brakes work better than I've ever felt. My truck stops more quickly and doesn't seem to want to lurch forward like it used to during quick stops.
Anyways, I pulled code 4 from my ABS sensor and began researching how to get my ABS and brake light to turn off. I found an image of the ABS code list and see that code 4 means "RABS valve switched closed or open dump valve" but I do not see very much further troubleshooting besides bleeding my brakes and testing the sensors with a multimeter. I assume my RABS didn't become faulty during the installation of my ABS hydraulic Assembly and honestly I don't know what/where my dump valve is so I am not sure where to go from here. Tonight I plan on resetting my computer and ABS system by turning the key off while the ABS connector halves are separated, then reconnecting the halves + leaving the battery disconnected overnight. Hopefully that does it but I'm not too confident that's the fix here.
As usual, your replies really are much appreciated. Cheers.
My front pads were at 2mm after about 11,000 miles and it looked like my drums hadn't worn since the last brake job I did which was almost a year ago. After replacing my front pads with some Centric semi-metallics, I jacked up the rear wheels, spun them, applied brakes, and there was 0 stopping power whatsoever in the rear. I adjusted them as much as possible (made my E-Brake work wayy better), but still no stoppage from my rear brakes.
I checked the rear bleed valves for clean fluid and good flow but only got 3-5 drops of dirty dot 3 per pump. I checked for good flow at every junction on my rear brake lines I could find till I hit the ABS hydraulic assembly. I removed it, bought a new one for a steep price of ~150$ at the local parts shop (O'Reilly's Remanufactured ABS Hydraulic Assembly), and installed the new one without too much difficulty. I went to check my rear brakes again and noticed my ABS light was on but my rear brakes were now able to stop my wheels during a free spin.
I bled my right rear then left rear bleed valves and was happy to find strong fluid flow at both. I bled until there were no air bubbles and cleaner fluid running through the lines and called it a day.
The next day I noticed my red brake light and the ABS light were both on but my brakes work better than I've ever felt. My truck stops more quickly and doesn't seem to want to lurch forward like it used to during quick stops.
Anyways, I pulled code 4 from my ABS sensor and began researching how to get my ABS and brake light to turn off. I found an image of the ABS code list and see that code 4 means "RABS valve switched closed or open dump valve" but I do not see very much further troubleshooting besides bleeding my brakes and testing the sensors with a multimeter. I assume my RABS didn't become faulty during the installation of my ABS hydraulic Assembly and honestly I don't know what/where my dump valve is so I am not sure where to go from here. Tonight I plan on resetting my computer and ABS system by turning the key off while the ABS connector halves are separated, then reconnecting the halves + leaving the battery disconnected overnight. Hopefully that does it but I'm not too confident that's the fix here.
As usual, your replies really are much appreciated. Cheers.
