2.3L ('83-'97) 93 5-speed Crank, No Start

[Chaoslost]

Howdy! I'm a learn as you go fix-it-all kinda mom, please forgive me if I don't know terms of things I've got a '93 Ranger that won't start.

Let's start at the beginning, shall we?

Not too long ago we purchased the Danger Ranger from a lady that had had it for years. She just couldn't get it started anymore. I'm fairly decent (I think) at getting things started so I went over to look at it. She told me she thought something was fucky with one of the fuses and that neither she nor three other mechanics she knew could get it to start. They'd replaced the starter, solenoid/relay, and a few other things but couldn't get it to do anything.

The "fuse" she was talking about was the Diode. Diode was fine but the wire it's supposed to make contact with inside the distribution box had pushed through and wasn't connecting. Their answer? They shoved a gum wrapper in the hole. I mean... I guess that works? I pulled the wire out the rest of the way, flipped the diode around and hung it off the side of the box. That "fixed" one issue. The relay wasn't clicking either, no power getting to the starter. Jumped the relay with a screwdriver and she started to turn. Primed the fuel a few times and she roared to life. Ran like a dream. Just had to start it with a screwdriver. No big deal.

Drove her home only to find out the fuel gauge didn't work. Ran out of gas. After throwing in some go-go juice, and giving her a screwdriver special, we made it back to the house. She's started a few times, but now she doesn't want to start.

Things we've done since then:

• Changed the Solenoid again
• Fixed the Diode wire and closed back up the PDB
• Bypassed the clutch switch Eventually, I'll get a new clutch switch installed. (Now the engine turns with the key instead of a screwdriver)

Yesterday I changed out the plugs and wires (desperately needed). The fuel pump engages when the key is turned so that's good. Fuel sprays out of the Schader valve on the fuel rail, so that's good too. Tested one of the plug wires for spark, it was good. (Though I'm planning on going back and testing the rest)

Questions:

• What is the likelihood the inertia switch is bad and can I test it? Since I hear the fuel pump engaging, is that even something I need to look at?
• Crank Position Sensor - I read in another post about the CPS and how it might be faulty. Where is it and how can I test it?
• Any other suggestions?

 

[Shran]

Welcome to the forum!

Start here, spray some starter fluid into the intake and see if it fires. If so, either fuel is not getting past the injectors regardless of whether it sprays out of the schrader valve. Would suspect a wiring issue somewhere... need to test one or more injectors with a test light to see if they are even getting power. Could be a low fuel pressure issue too - seen that plenty of times - you can have fuel pressure at the rail but not enough to start and run.

If it doesn't start on ether then you are missing either compression or ignition. Is the timing belt intact? Timing belt slipped and now it's not firing at the right time? You said you have spark so either you have no fuel or the timing is off or there's inadequate compression to start and run (broken timing belt/blown head gasket/worn out engine will cause that.)

Inertia switch is not a factor if the fuel pump runs, I would rule that out.

Crank Position Sensor is highly unlikely, you need to rule out everything else I mentioned above first.

My money is on a wiring issue caused by the previous owner.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The previous owners "mechanics" seem to be special if they can't diagnose a clutch switch and screw with everything else, but there does seem to be some wiring goofyness going on...

If the fuel pump turns on, it's not the inertia switch

If you have spark it's not likely the crank sensor, the crank sensor is behind the timing belt cover just behind the top of the crank pulley

Timing belt wouldn't hurt, the kit with a tensioner is fairly cheap, not too bad of an install unless it has some of the funky front end bracketry... on a '93 the orientation of the auxiliary pulley doesn't matter for squat so don't worry about lining it up with anything... If the timing belt skipped a tooth they imediately shut off and sound goofy when cranking

Fuel pressure wouldn't be a bad thing to check, I don't remember what it should be but probably around 35psi? You can use a tire pressure gauge you don't mind throwing away later

 

[Chaoslost]

Welcome to the forum!

Start here, spray some starter fluid into the intake and see if it fires.

Oh, I forgot to mention that! I did try spraying in starter fluid, there was no change in the way anything sounded or acted when trying to fire.

If it doesn't start on ether then you are missing either compression or ignition. Is the timing belt intact? Timing belt slipped and now it's not firing at the right time? You said you have spark so either you have no fuel or the timing is off or there's inadequate compression to start and run (broken timing belt/blown head gasket/worn out engine will cause that.)

I haven't checked the timing belt, in fact that's the next "learn as I go" thing and is just outside of my wheelhouse. I'll do some research and find what I need to check for and how to do so. Same thing with

I only checked one wire for spark, would that be sufficient or should I check the other seven?

Inertia switch is not a factor if the fuel pump runs, I would rule that out.

Crank Position Sensor is highly unlikely, you need to rule out everything else I mentioned above first.

My money is on a wiring issue caused by the previous owner.

That's a relief. I'll bust out my wiring diagram and test light. If there is a fault somewhere, I'm thinking it might be to the coil. Thank goodness for forums and youtube, lol.

 

[Chaoslost]

The previous owners "mechanics" seem to be special if they can't diagnose a clutch switch and screw with everything else, but there does seem to be some wiring goofyness going on...

Yeah, I'm thinking they weren't "real" mechanics so much as "shade trees in the same park trying to help their neighbor". Someone, at some point, tried to bypass the clutch switch (I think) and just hooked the same wire back to itself... Completely useless endeavor.

If the fuel pump turns on, it's not the inertia switch

If you have spark it's not likely the crank sensor, the crank sensor is behind the timing belt cover just behind the top of the crank pulley

I'm still thinking I should double-check spark on the other 7 wires, as I only did the one.

Timing belt wouldn't hurt, the kit with a tensioner is fairly cheap, not too bad of an install unless it has some of the funky front end bracketry... on a '93 the orientation of the auxiliary pulley doesn't matter for squat so don't worry about lining it up with anything... If the timing belt skipped a tooth they imediately shut off and sound goofy when cranking

Fuel pressure wouldn't be a bad thing to check, I don't remember what it should be but probably around 35psi? You can use a tire pressure gauge you don't mind throwing away later

It sounds like it should sound, just isn't turning over. And the last time I had her going, she ran and sounded (surprisingly) amazing.

I've got a few spare tire pressure gauges laying around, just put it on the same schrader valve that I checked before? I've never done that one before.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Just to clarify, you have it cranking now with the key, it just won't start? And adding starting fluid didn't get it going or get a cough or anything?

One thing to note is the ignition system although there's a lot of it and a lot of people are scared of 8 spark plugs and a magical crank sensor it's pretty dumb and simple... the whole ignition system works off of the crank sensor and the ignition module mounted on the front of the intake manifold just behind the power steering pump, that module gives the computer the rpm signal so it knows when to fire ignition and fuel injectors. It's a simple batch fire system, two pairs of cylinders, #1 and #4 are together then #2 and #3 are together for both ignition and fuel. The coils have a 3 pin connector, center wire is power in and outer are signals for the two pairs of cylinders. The coil for the passenger side spark plugs is "primary" and will spark while cranking, the drivers side cylinders won't.

Changing the timing belt isn't too difficult, pull the crankshaft pulley center bolt (easiest way is a long breaker bar resting on top of the drivers side framerail then bump the starter), pull the serpentine belt (ok, probably mix up this advice... apply logic, I'm just typing... ), fan and water pump pulley and the 4 bolts with 10mm heads holding the outer crank pulley on or just try to pull the whole crank pulley off, in theory it should just slide off with a little wiggling and luck. The rest kinda depends on the front accessory drive components, you gotta get the black plastic timing belt cover off so picture that and pull stuff accordingly... Before you get too crazy it wouldn't be a bad idea to turn the crank to the 0 degree mark on the timing belt cover. Pull the handful of bolts off the timing cover, there's some snaps that hold it on the rest of the way, it's pretty obvious then you see the timing belt, two big identical pulleys, a tensioner then the crank at the bottom. My new favorite tool to pull tension off the tensioner is a claw hammer, loosen the big bolt with the spring a little and the smaller lower bolt in the slot on the bracket then you can pry the tensioner out of the way some, then tighten the bolt with the slot again and it will stay there so you can get the old belt off and new one on. I'd have to look up the timing marks on the cam pulley, I don't remember which one is important... like I said earlier on a '93 you don't have to worry about the other big pulley as it just drives the oil pump.

The 2.3L is a non interference engine so you don't have to worry about that...

 

[Chaoslost]

Just to clarify, you have it cranking now with the key, it just won't start? And adding starting fluid didn't get it going or get a cough or anything?

Yes. After bypassing the clutch switch, I can now turn the key and crank the engine but it will not start.
Starting fluid didn't change a thing. I even opened the butterfly and sprayed into it.

One thing to note is the ignition system although there's a lot of it and a lot of people are scared of 8 spark plugs and a magical crank sensor it's pretty dumb and simple... the whole ignition system works off of the crank sensor and the ignition module mounted on the front of the intake manifold just behind the power steering pump, that module gives the computer the rpm signal so it knows when to fire ignition and fuel injectors. It's a simple batch fire system, two pairs of cylinders, #1 and #4 are together then #2 and #3 are together for both ignition and fuel. The coils have a 3 pin connector, center wire is power in and outer are signals for the two pairs of cylinders. The coil for the passenger side spark plugs is "primary" and will spark while cranking, the drivers side cylinders won't.

I remember reading something about the passenger side being for "starting" and the driver's side fires when it's running. Did I understand that right?

Changing the timing belt isn't too difficult, pull the crankshaft pulley center bolt (easiest way is a long breaker bar resting on top of the drivers side framerail then bump the starter), pull the serpentine belt (ok, probably mix up this advice... apply logic, I'm just typing... ), fan and water pump pulley and the 4 bolts with 10mm heads holding the outer crank pulley on or just try to pull the whole crank pulley off, in theory it should just slide off with a little wiggling and luck. The rest kinda depends on the front accessory drive components, you gotta get the black plastic timing belt cover off so picture that and pull stuff accordingly... Before you get too crazy it wouldn't be a bad idea to turn the crank to the 0 degree mark on the timing belt cover. Pull the handful of bolts off the timing cover, there's some snaps that hold it on the rest of the way, it's pretty obvious then you see the timing belt, two big identical pulleys, a tensioner then the crank at the bottom. My new favorite tool to pull tension off the tensioner is a claw hammer, loosen the big bolt with the spring a little and the smaller lower bolt in the slot on the bracket then you can pry the tensioner out of the way some, then tighten the bolt with the slot again and it will stay there so you can get the old belt off and new one on. I'd have to look up the timing marks on the cam pulley, I don't remember which one is important... like I said earlier on a '93 you don't have to worry about the other big pulley as it just drives the oil pump.

The 2.3L is a non interference engine so you don't have to worry about that...

Hopefully, I won't have to do this part, lol. If I do, I'll need to wait for backup from one of my buddies. (It's always less nerve-wracking when someone with more experience is nearby).

 

[scotts90ranger]

When the engine is running both coils are used, but yes for cranking speeds the passenger side is used to try to save on voltage. This practice stopped in '95ish when the ignition module went away and the cam sensor behind the aux pulley was added...

I wouldn't stress about the timing belt, it's not that bad... I had one jump a tooth as I took it off the trailer about 300 miles from home for an offroad camping trip, found someone with a cellphone (mine didn't have service in the boonies) so I could look up the timing marks, fixed it in camp (just lined the belt up and got the tension set better) and it worked fine all weekend... There are some parts that can be a pain like getting the crank pulley off, but being in Texas it probably isn't too rusty...

Ok, simple way to check the timing belt, turn the engine to the TDC mark and pull the plastic/rubber plug toward the top of the front of the timing belt cover, that is where the timing mark is. If you don't see a notch in the pulley turn the crankshaft another full rotation, you should see it, there's a mark that corresponds to it somewhere in there that's somewhat obvious. That mark should be within 1/8" of lining up, if it's over 1/4" off the timing belt slipped a tooth...

Does the engine sound uneven when cranking? They usually sound really weird and uneven or just crank really fast when the belts skip or break...

 

[Chaoslost]

Does the engine sound uneven when cranking? They usually sound really weird and uneven or just crank really fast when the belts skip or break...

Not at all. Is it strange to say that I wish some of my other cars sounded this smooth when cranking? Aside from the whole starting thing anyway. It sounds even and smooth across the board.

 

[scotts90ranger]

I would still look at the belt through that inspection hole, for one if the cam doesn't turn when the engine is cranking then that would do it...

If the spark plugs and wires were ancient, chances are the timing belt is too, I think the upper end of the replacement intervals was like 100k miles and probably 5 years on the round tooth belts that started in '92... the square tooth belts were like 60k interval...

 

[Chaoslost]

I would still look at the belt through that inspection hole, for one if the cam doesn't turn when the engine is cranking then that would do it...

If the spark plugs and wires were ancient, chances are the timing belt is too, I think the upper end of the replacement intervals was like 100k miles and probably 5 years on the round tooth belts that started in '92... the square tooth belts were like 60k interval...

Especially as it'll be my youngest's first car I certainly want it to be as safe and reliable as possible, I'll still check it out. Thanks so much for your help, hun. Chances are I won't be able to get back to it until this weekend, but I have a list of things I can check on it.

 

[Shran]

How much starting fluid did you use? You will need more than a quick squirt... give it a nice big blast, otherwise it will evaporate before it even gets into the cylinders.

I don't think you need to check for spark on all 8 plugs. You could try swapping coils to rule out a bad or weak one.

You need an actual fuel pressure gauge, not a tire pressure gauge. They are fairly cheap and a great tool to have on hand... Harbor Freight or any of the parts stores can get you hooked up with that.

I kind of doubt the timing belt is at fault here but I guess it's possible. They sound really goofy when cranking if it's broken... like much faster and higher pitched.

My old '96 would do all sorts of weird stuff like this. Occasionally it would just die at a stop light and not start for a few minutes. I forgot all about that till just now, I loved that truck and wish I still had it but man it was frustrating. Funny how time makes you forget the bad moments.

 

[Chaoslost]

How much starting fluid did you use? You will need more than a quick squirt... give it a nice big blast, otherwise it will evaporate before it even gets into the cylinders.

I don't think you need to check for spark on all 8 plugs. You could try swapping coils to rule out a bad or weak one.

You need an actual fuel pressure gauge, not a tire pressure gauge. They are fairly cheap and a great tool to have on hand... Harbor Freight or any of the parts stores can get you hooked up with that.

I kind of doubt the timing belt is at fault here but I guess it's possible. They sound really goofy when cranking if it's broken... like much faster and higher pitched.

My old '96 would do all sorts of weird stuff like this. Occasionally it would just die at a stop light and not start for a few minutes. I forgot all about that till just now, I loved that truck and wish I still had it but man it was frustrating. Funny how time makes you forget the bad moments.

I sprayed for about 3 seconds each time and tried it three separate times. I didn't risk going over that as the can said no more than three.

I ordered a fuel pressure testing kit, spark tester, and noid lights last night and they're due on Wednesday. Hopefully they'll help and I figure, at the very least, they will be a good addition to my artillery of tools and such. Especially as I have 9 different vehicles I'm sussing out at any given time.

I watched a video last night that gave me a few other things to consider, too (hence getting the noid lights). Going to try and trace out some of the electrical to double check.

 

[Chaoslost]

Got under the hood a little bit today. Changed out the battery terminals and repaired a questionable-looking ground. Just for kicks and giggles, I tried to start her up, hoping a bad ground was the issue. Still no luck. Guess I need to wait for my new diagnostic tools to get here tomorrow.

I found two wires that weren't connected to anything. Confirmed one was ground with my test light, but could not figure out where it broke loose from. The other is a harness/connector that was up near the passenger headlight. No clue what it goes to. Any insight?

Lastly, I took video of the engine trying to turn so it could be heard.

 

[scotts90ranger]

The single wire by the coils is just the radio noise capacitor, won't keep it from running...