2.3L ('83-'97) 91 2.3l cranks but no start-solved

[Reece’sPieces]

Hey everyone,

I’ve got a 91 ranger with the 2.3l fuel-injection engine. It seems to randomly have a really hard time starting. Sometimes it starts on the first try, and other times I have to try over and over, and pushing on the accelerator seems to help. I’ve put in a new fuel pump, air filter, fuel filter, new motorcraft plugs and wires, new timing belt, fpr, iacv, coil packs, the whole works. Took it to a shop and they said it was loosing fuel pressure with the ignition switched off. They put another new fuel pump in, charged me $500, and it didn’t make any difference. I’m losing my mind over this. I’ve also tested the throttle position sensor and maf which are fine. Any thoughts on what the problem is? My only guess is a bad crankshaft position sensor. It also seems like the past owner deleted the vacuum reservoir, and I know the fuel pressure regulator works from vacuum somehow? Any advice would be super helpful, like I said I feel like I’m going crazy over this.

 

[Reece’sPieces]

Also this has been going on the whole time I’ve owned this truck. For some reason it only happens intermittently. Also once it starts up it runs okay. It seems like the engine bucks a little or something under a heavy load but it might just be that it’s just the little 2.3l. Also I don’t think the O2 sensor has ever been replaced and I know the end of it is blackened from carbon. Also I remember the fuel filter I put in early on was a cheap wix or microguard, and maybe that has something to do with it.

 

[scotts90ranger]

What kinda fuel mileage are you getting? Does it do anything different if you put your foot to the floor before cranking then let off the pedal after cranking for about a second or two?

My thoughts are either a leaky injector or two or low compression for some reason... or someone screwed with the idle speed...

Bare bones manual trans rangers didn't all have a vacuum reservoir... my '90 never had one, and I don't think the '89 I got the chassis from had one either. If they had A/C they usually had one I think which was very rare on 4 cylinders back in the day... there really isn't anything ran off that much vacuum in that era Ranger...

 

[Reece’sPieces]

It didn’t start when I tried that before, doing that turns the injectors off right? The truck actually gets good gas mileage and doesn’t throw any codes either. I don’t think a compression test has ever been done on it. I might try some starter fluid to see if maybe it’s not getting enough fuel. Also it usually idles at about 800rpm

 

[tomw]

You could have a worn out ignition switch. The electrical part that rides on top of the steering column down a bit towards the firewall. I had mine actually starting to come apart, causing it to just STOP when and where it wanted. Took a bit to determine the switch was giving up the ghost. Tried to re-squeeze the tangs holding it together, but that didn't last.
If/when you do replace, use a file to created flats on the anti-theft screws and an adjustable wrench to remove.
The plug wires may be new, but given product quality, it is worthwhile to check their ohms. 20K ohms is a good ballpark, though it is not correct. Main thing is if you get OL or open on your meter, the wires are crud. Memory says 10k ohms/foot, but who knows. Open is the problem. If you have open, the spark must jump across all opens(how many?) and the plug gap, which makes misfire all the more possible.
Went looking to see if you had a START mode that bumped volts when cranking, and found a good discussion here:

Ford Distributorless Ignition System (DIS)

Ford DIS System The distributorless ignition system (DIS) for the Ford 2.3L twin spark plug engine consists of the following components...

91fordranger.blogspot.com

I would check the ignition switch providing voltage to the ignition module consistently and/or do the tests of the module.
You can learn a lot with a VOM.
tom

 

[Reece’sPieces]

Okay I’ll look into that, thank you. I was wondering if this might be causing some problems. Basically, there was a vacuum line that used to go to cruise control or something and I just have it capped off on a bolt sticking out there. It’s hard to tell but it’s the one on the right side.

 

[RonD]

Just as a heads up
The 1989-1994 2.3l spark system disables the Drivers side coil pack and spark plugs while starter motor is active, i.e when cranking engine

So only the passenger side coil pack and spark plugs are working, exhaust side
This was done to give more voltage to the one coil pack for cold starts

When there are dual spark plugs in each cylinder you can't tell if one spark plug is not working.............
Dual spark plugs are used to add more power but hard to tell when just one is working

But what you can do is to disable one coil pack by unplugging its 3 wire connector, so engine is now running just on the other coil pack and its 4 spark plugs
If there is a steady misfire then you will know at least one spark plug is not working on that side

Then do the same but test the other coil pack and its 4 spark plugs

The 2.3l engine should run fine/smooth on just 4 spark plugs, it did so from 1974 thru 1988 when it had a distributor and just 4 spark plugs, lol
Won't have as much power but will run just fine otherwise

On the 1989-1994 2.3l you need to unplug the 3 wire connector with engine idling, and move connector back so it can't ARC to its plug
You should know instantly if a spark plug or plugs are bad on working coil

 

[Reece’sPieces]

I’m gonna call this tread solved for now. I had some oldish gas in the tank. I filled it up and ran fuel injector cleaner through the tank for the first time ever. It starts up almost every time now, albeit a little slowly.

 

[RonD]

Good stuff, thanks for the follow up

 

[Reece’sPieces]

Just wanted to report, truck is still starting well. I’m gonna keep running injector cleaner through it as it seemed to work good.