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87 Bronco II 4x4 left hub needed

groovtubin

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Anyone have one for sale? Mines factory version ( overhead console 4x4 operation) Any idea what causes it to break the hub cover when i engaged 4x4? RH side is fine...Thank you!
 

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dvdswan

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Old pot metal. Hubs not maintained.
 

franklin2

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That is a drawback of auto hubs. You have to be careful with them. They will usually not engage until you get stuck or drive quite a distance.

Once you engage the transfer case, the front axles start turning. But the hubs will not engage until the front axle starts getting ahead of the front wheel. It then starts mechanically engaging the hub. If you are stuck and then engage the 4x4, you need to gently add power at first, till the hubs engage. If you are spinning and horsing around and engage the transfer case while doing that, the front axle will start spinning very fast and will engage the wheel with a "bang". It's during that "bang" that the front hub shatters.

That is why you have to back up 10 feet to disengage them. You turn the transfer case off, the front axle stops turning, and then you back up rolling the front wheels backwards. This unscrews the hubs to release them.

Be a little more careful with them and you will not have any problems.
 

franklin2

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This place in North Carolina has left and right manual hubs. No more worrying about being gentle with the auto hubs, these lock in manually. But you do have to get out and walk around to lock them in. It's really the better way to drive a 4x4 vehicle. Predict beforehand if you need 4x4 and go ahead and engage it before you get in trouble. That will work best with either type of lockout hub.

1988
Lockout Hub, 4X4
Ford Ranger
LH,MANUAL-0MI
X​
22-020
$50​
Exum Auto Salvage USA-NC(Marble) Request_Quote 828-837-1672 Request_Insurance_Quote
Live Chat
1988
Lockout Hub, 4X4
Ford Ranger
RH,MANUAL-0MI
X​
22-020
$50​
Exum Auto Salvage USA-NC(Marble) Request_Quote 828-837-1672 Request_Insurance_Quote
Live Chat
 

groovtubin

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That is a drawback of auto hubs. You have to be careful with them. They will usually not engage until you get stuck or drive quite a distance.

Once you engage the transfer case, the front axles start turning. But the hubs will not engage until the front axle starts getting ahead of the front wheel. It then starts mechanically engaging the hub. If you are stuck and then engage the 4x4, you need to gently add power at first, till the hubs engage. If you are spinning and horsing around and engage the transfer case while doing that, the front axle will start spinning very fast and will engage the wheel with a "bang". It's during that "bang" that the front hub shatters.

That is why you have to back up 10 feet to disengage them. You turn the transfer case off, the front axle stops turning, and then you back up rolling the front wheels backwards. This unscrews the hubs to release them.

Be a little more careful with them and you will not have any problems.
WOW THANK YOU< ive NEVER heard this info B4!
 

groovtubin

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
This place in North Carolina has left and right manual hubs. No more worrying about being gentle with the auto hubs, these lock in manually. But you do have to get out and walk around to lock them in. It's really the better way to drive a 4x4 vehicle. Predict beforehand if you need 4x4 and go ahead and engage it before you get in trouble. That will work best with either type of lockout hub.

1988
Lockout Hub, 4X4
Ford Ranger
LH,MANUAL-0MI
X​
22-020
$50​
Exum Auto Salvage USA-NC(Marble) Request_Quote 828-837-1672 Request_Insurance_Quote
Live Chat
1988
Lockout Hub, 4X4
Ford Ranger
RH,MANUAL-0MI
X​
22-020
$50​
Exum Auto Salvage USA-NC(Marble) Request_Quote 828-837-1672 Request_Insurance_Quote
Live Chat
THANK YOU SO much really appreciate the information!!
 

groovtubin

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
That is a drawback of auto hubs. You have to be careful with them. They will usually not engage until you get stuck or drive quite a distance.

Once you engage the transfer case, the front axles start turning. But the hubs will not engage until the front axle starts getting ahead of the front wheel. It then starts mechanically engaging the hub. If you are stuck and then engage the 4x4, you need to gently add power at first, till the hubs engage. If you are spinning and horsing around and engage the transfer case while doing that, the front axle will start spinning very fast and will engage the wheel with a "bang". It's during that "bang" that the front hub shatters.

That is why you have to back up 10 feet to disengage them. You turn the transfer case off, the front axle stops turning, and then you back up rolling the front wheels backwards. This unscrews the hubs to release them.

Be a little more careful with them and you will not have any problems.
Ok, so ALL i have ta do is lock the manual hubs n im set? Can i still use. Low? That engages Transfer case? Thank you im a flat newb.
 

Shran

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Ok, so ALL i have ta do is lock the manual hubs n im set? Can i still use. Low? That engages Transfer case? Thank you im a flat newb.
You have to get out and lock the hubs in, then shift the t-case into 4 High or 4 Low. If you get that set of manual hubs, you will need the wheel bearing nuts and big washer to go along with them. I might have a spare auto hub in my parts stash if you want to just replace what you have.

FYI do not drive around on dry pavement in 4WD, high or low, with auto hubs, or locked-in manual hubs. I don't know if you did that or not but don't do it, things will bind up and break and it's almost always the hubs that break first.
 

groovtubin

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4WD
You have to get out and lock the hubs in, then shift the t-case into 4 High or 4 Low. If you get that set of manual hubs, you will need the wheel bearing nuts and big washer to go along with them. I might have a spare auto hub in my parts stash if you want to just replace what you have.

FYI do not drive around on dry pavement in 4WD, high or low, with auto hubs, or locked-in manual hubs. I don't know if you did that or not but don't do it, things will bind up and break and it's almost always the hubs that break first.
SUPR appreciate the info, i just ordered (2) TQR Lock outs, you think that wheel bearing nut n washer wil come w/it or a Dealership part? Again THANK YOU, im so thankful for knowledge base here n taking your time to help me!
 

Shran

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No prob. I am not familiar with TQR...? Where'd you get those at? Warn and Mile Marker are the one aftermarket hubs I am aware of. I don't think either of them comes with the hardware you need.

Fortunately:

Warn is marginally better, up to you if you want to pony up the difference. I probably wouldn't.

You also need a spindle nut socket. Available locally at any parts store too - Performance Tool W1269 is the one I like.
 

franklin2

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You have to get out and lock the hubs in, then shift the t-case into 4 High or 4 Low. If you get that set of manual hubs, you will need the wheel bearing nuts and big washer to go along with them. I might have a spare auto hub in my parts stash if you want to just replace what you have.

FYI do not drive around on dry pavement in 4WD, high or low, with auto hubs, or locked-in manual hubs. I don't know if you did that or not but don't do it, things will bind up and break and it's almost always the hubs that break first.
Don't be too scared about dry pavement. If you are driving in patchy snow covered roads where the road is bare pavement and then it has snow on it, don't worry about it. You can tell when you are getting into trouble, the steering wheel will fight you in a tight turn. So try to avoid parking lot maneuvers on dry pavement. Otherwise, driving straight down the road, dry pavement is ok if you feel you might need 4x4 in the near term.
 

groovtubin

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
No prob. I am not familiar with TQR...? Where'd you get those at? Warn and Mile Marker are the one aftermarket hubs I am aware of. I don't think either of them comes with the hardware you need.

Fortunately:

Warn is marginally better, up to you if you want to pony up the difference. I probably wouldn't.

You also need a spindle nut socket. Available locally at any parts store too - Performance Tool W1269 is the one I like.
Carid.
 

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groovtubin

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2WD / 4WD
4WD

groovtubin

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2WD / 4WD
4WD
That is a drawback of auto hubs. You have to be careful with them. They will usually not engage until you get stuck or drive quite a distance.

Once you engage the transfer case, the front axles start turning. But the hubs will not engage until the front axle starts getting ahead of the front wheel. It then starts mechanically engaging the hub. If you are stuck and then engage the 4x4, you need to gently add power at first, till the hubs engage. If you are spinning and horsing around and engage the transfer case while doing that, the front axle will start spinning very fast and will engage the wheel with a "bang". It's during that "bang" that the front hub shatters.

That is why you have to back up 10 feet to disengage them. You turn the transfer case off, the front axle stops turning, and then you back up rolling the front wheels backwards. This unscrews the hubs to release them.

Be a little more careful with them and you will not have any problems.
OK, these TRQS from CARID DO NOT FIT..WARNING "DO NOT BUY............ IF u have an original 4x4 outer hub for 87 BII id REALLY appreciate it, thank you! I can paypal, or send postal MO...
 

Shran

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Color me shocked that they do not fit. Shocked. Total disbelief. CARiD is a joke.

They will probably work just fine IF you have the manual hub wheel bearing nuts and washer. So... if you still have them, you could order the parts from Bronco Graveyard that I listed above and confirm that theory.
 

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