86' 2.3 EFI Ranger engine stalling & cutting out!!!


bozo4ford

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1986 Ranger / 2.3 EFI Gas / 5-speed / 4 Cylinder / 140 Cid / SOHC

Well here we go once again! :dunno:

I have posted here before on my stalling issues, but here is somewhat of an update. I replaced my in-line fuel filter on June 4th, and still having doggy problems. This does not happen all the time when I drive, but mysteriously happens at any given time. The mechanic agreed it was dogging out on his test drive. He replaced the Fuel filter and cleaned the IAC (intake air control) located off my air filter housing on passengers side. He also increased my idle on the throttle body.
He agreed that replacing the filter may or may not help my problem, and also said this is a process of elimination trying to diagnose what exactly is causing this, but thinks it sounds more of a fuel problem than vacuum or emissions. BUT he could be wrong.

He said that he found metal shavings in my fuel filter (it’s the original and 26 years old) no doubt from my fuel pump, which appears to be breaking down because of it’s age.

So last night I attempted to go to the store. I started it up, and then put it in 1st gear, then it stalled. I had to rev it up pretty much, and kept it high RPMS for a couple of minutes, then let it just warm up for about ten minutes, this somewhat helped. I proceeded to the store, and I successfully made it back home, (Hooray!) but this uncertainly when and where this will conk out is driving me bananas!

So I’m thinking …
Fuel injector service...has not been done in years.
Fuel pressure regulator...I can get to the front two allen screws, but not the back closest to the fuel solenoid injector rod. Is there special tool, or just need patience and time unscrewing that screw? This could be causing stalling?
OR it maybe these things…..

EGR valve,
Cap and Rotor,
TFI Module...have replaced three in 26 years.
Replace my IAC valve?...I’ve only cleaned it, never replaced it.
ECC relay, I’ve already replaced my fuel relay. need help with wiring of spade locations. (previous posts, photos here in this forum)
Map sensor, etc.
Maybe my problems are both fuel and emissions?

It’s hard to diagnose without replacing every conceivable part that are suspect.

So, if the truck needs warming up before it stops stalling out, what would be the first thing anyone would suspect other than the newly replaced fuel filter?

Someone on this, or another ford forum told me he replaced his in-line fuel filter because of similar problems on his 1987 Ranger, then went back and replaced the in-line reservoir, which I think Ford used to call the secondary fuel filter, then his problems went away.

Thanks for any help or ideas to shorten my list of potential problem causing parts !
 


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cody93

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my truck is a late 86(87 title) so its like yours, i had a bad inline resevoir that was driving nuts that i replaced with 2 inline fuel filters, i can go WOT without having fuel supply issues. before it would run for 20 secs and die because of lack of fuel supply. as for the FPR, i replaced mine by taking the upper intake and injector rail off. good time to check for fuel rail blockage and check injectors. id rule out cap n rotor and egr, cap and rotor either work or dont work. egr shouldn't cause it to not run. map sensor shouldn't cause it to be irratic like that also. when ever it dies and wont crank, give it a shot of starting fluid and see if it will fire, if so its fuel related and can rule out your coil and tfi.
 

bozo4ford

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Hi,
With over 160,000 miles on the this 26 year old antique, there are no scheduled maintenance. I try to replace plugs and wires every few years, if needed. Air filter, gas cap, water cap, clean AIC valve, which so far, has never been replaced. The cap and rotor.
Fuel pressure regulator ~ I had to remove the distributor cap and rotor to get a hold of that back allen screw. It took me forever, but trying my patience every step of the way, I did it. I did not have any light oil to put on the gasket, but hopefully it helped replacing it, since it’s never been done before.

I also replaced the relays. The 4 pigtail wires exactly the way the OEM comes out of the harness, regardless of the BIG FAT striped wire going into the wrong spade location as the OEM. (I think I have photos posted in previous posts here)

It runs. I can, and will not say for the better, but so far, it hasn’t stalled the few times I went down the street for a test drive...(or blew a fuse, because of the way the relay could have been wired wrong)

The rotor had a little carbon on top, that, and the cap has not been replaced since about four years ago, same with spark plugs. I usually replace air filter every other test only smog test. The spark plug wires, well not so often. I would hate to have to replace my TFI module again after four times in the life of the truck.

I don’t want to be negative, but I’m thinking I’m not completely out of the woods just yet. That in-line reservoir might be the next thing, along with cleaning or replacing my injectors, they might be dirty.

The recent relay TOP SWITCH, I just replaced was Black top connected to a white bottom, which plugs into the OEM BROWN Harness (Must be ECM, or ECC Relay) The other switch I replaced last year was a Black top connected to a white bottom, that connects to a GREEN OEM pigtail harness, which should be the FUEL RELAY.
 
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bozo4ford

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UPDATE - JULY 18, 2012
1986 Ranger / 2.3 Gas EFI / 5-Speed / SOHC / 4-Cyl.

Ok, I replaced the 4 wires exactly the way they were coming out of the harness and into the new switch. So far,so good, with no burnt fuses. Truck is STILL stalling after starting engine. When I first turn over engine, and the next few times it stalls before staying at an idle. There might be other issues other than just getting the engine warm to maintain an idle, but I maybe found a short on my pass. side fender well, while trying to replace plastic shroud over relays.

I just replaced fuel in-line filter, (FPR - Fuel pressure regulator) Cleaned the (AIC - Air intake control) Cap and rotor, and at first it seemed to have a little pep when starting the engine, but after trying to replace the plastic cover back over my relays as the engine was running, it’s pretty much back to stalling a few times before the engine stays at an idle.

Here's what happened....grab yo cup o' Joe and please be patient.

Last week, I had removed the plastic shroud cover protecting my AIC, and relays, and other stuff attached to my passengers side fender wall, until I was sure after I re-wired the new pigtail to relay switch, to make sure it did not blow a fuse from mis-wiring the four wires from the harness to the switch. (previous posts)



Funny thing, though. Yesterday, as the engine was running, I tried to carefully place that plastic cover of back over those relays, and at first, suddenly, the engine revved up a little higher idle, then I tried to feel around for any lose connections, but that did not yield any suspects. I continued to move around the cover to see if it would do this again, but this time, the engine just stalled out.

So now I’m thinking there could be a short somewhere in this area, when the plastic piece touched something…..But what could that? Any ideas?

I know it's far easier to take it to a electrical diagnostic testing center, but being disabled and not much mula, I'm trying to fix this problem myself.
Thanks yet again for any and all replies.
 
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bozo4ford

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Here a few pics of the area in question. passengers side fender well.

I'll have to really look hard for any cracks or frayed wires that causes my engine while idling, to either rev up the rpms, or stalls out, when trying to re-attach the plastic cover shroud over the relays and AIC. There must be something loose.

From experience owning older trucks like this 1986, are there any other electronic pieces to replace over on this side, besides the relays, and maybe the AIC? Air intake control.







 

bozo4ford

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Sunday 7-22-12 ~ here is an update to what’s been going on with my truck. I turn the key over; it tries to start, but stalls. The second try it usually starts right up, but then I smell the strong smell of gas.

I popped the hood then looked at the fuel pressure regulator that I just put in two weeks ago, and did not see any leaking wet fuel, and the vac line also did not have any visible wet gas in the line.

What do you think that is when it first stalls out, then second time starts up, then strong odor of gas?

So maybe when I was trying to replace that plastic cover (see photos) over my relays,I moved something around and maybe relay wires are shorting out where I spliced and taped together, because when I was trying to replace the cover while engine was running, once it revved up the engine, then after restarting engine, tried to do it again, but this time it stalled out. Besides the relays, maybe there is another short somewhere on the pass. side fender well that causes the fuel to do what's doing by way of smell. Maybe it is the inline reservoir, maybe the fuel pump. Also, maybe replace my AIC, which is original and only has been cleaned. OR maybe it's the PVC?
 
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Mark_88

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Well, your truck does, essentially work. So a short I would say is not likely the problem.

I bought an 89 Tempo new off the lot. Fuel injection and otherwise everything was working fine. I did, however, smell gas almost every time I started it for the first time each day. Why? I have no idea. I took it to Ford under warranty and they could not find the problem and had never heard of it before.

But it almost sounds like it is flooding out. Like the return fuel line is not connected (they have a return line that runs back to the gas tank) and there is simply too much gas going in initially.

Check your return fuel lines...they may be cracked or disconnected...not necessarily right under the hood...could be down near the floorboards and the gas smell is seeping in through any of a number of possible openings.

I found a fuel leak on mine yesterday that I didn't notice until I turned the key on, let the pump run a few seconds, then turned it off to check the oil...when I popped the hood I could see the fuel dripping down onto the passenger fender (I installed an electric fuel pump in this location due to not having a manual pump on my block as there should be)...
 

Insanejughead

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Leaky fuel injectors?


Unbolt the lower intake manifold from the engine block and then pressurize your fuel system to see if they are dripping into the intake ports.
 

bozo4ford

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UPDATE July 29th, 2012

For the last ten times when I started the truck, it has been starting right up without stalling like it did before, I also do not smell the strong odor of gas.....So now what? What could cause this intermittent starting or stalling, then seems normal again? I know it could be Anything?
I would perform the Self test code, but I do not have any analog,digital,volt meter, wires, or any other tools needed for this. On this '86 ranger, there are no instrument panel lights (that I remember ever seeing) or do i know the location of the 6 plug test port or the STI single port for testing....So call me LAME. thx
 
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justin276

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1986 Ranger / 2.3 EFI Gas / 5-speed / 4 Cylinder / 140 Cid / SOHC

Well here we go once again! :dunno:

I have posted here before on my stalling issues, but here is somewhat of an update. I replaced my in-line fuel filter on June 4th, and still having doggy problems. This does not happen all the time when I drive, but mysteriously happens at any given time. The mechanic agreed it was dogging out on his test drive. He replaced the Fuel filter and cleaned the IAC (intake air control) located off my air filter housing on passengers side. He also increased my idle on the throttle body.
He agreed that replacing the filter may or may not help my problem, and also said this is a process of elimination trying to diagnose what exactly is causing this, but thinks it sounds more of a fuel problem than vacuum or emissions. BUT he could be wrong.

He said that he found metal shavings in my fuel filter (it’s the original and 26 years old) no doubt from my fuel pump, which appears to be breaking down because of it’s age.

So last night I attempted to go to the store. I started it up, and then put it in 1st gear, then it stalled. I had to rev it up pretty much, and kept it high RPMS for a couple of minutes, then let it just warm up for about ten minutes, this somewhat helped. I proceeded to the store, and I successfully made it back home, (Hooray!) but this uncertainly when and where this will conk out is driving me bananas!

So I’m thinking …
Fuel injector service...has not been done in years.
Fuel pressure regulator...I can get to the front two allen screws, but not the back closest to the fuel solenoid injector rod. Is there special tool, or just need patience and time unscrewing that screw? This could be causing stalling?
OR it maybe these things…..

EGR valve,
Cap and Rotor,
TFI Module...have replaced three in 26 years.
Replace my IAC valve?...I’ve only cleaned it, never replaced it.
ECC relay, I’ve already replaced my fuel relay. need help with wiring of spade locations. (previous posts, photos here in this forum)
Map sensor, etc.
Maybe my problems are both fuel and emissions?

It’s hard to diagnose without replacing every conceivable part that are suspect.

So, if the truck needs warming up before it stops stalling out, what would be the first thing anyone would suspect other than the newly replaced fuel filter?

Someone on this, or another ford forum told me he replaced his in-line fuel filter because of similar problems on his 1987 Ranger, then went back and replaced the in-line reservoir, which I think Ford used to call the secondary fuel filter, then his problems went away.

Thanks for any help or ideas to shorten my list of potential problem causing parts !

i dont know if anyone still reads this thread or has this problem but i have spent days now trying to fix this 86 ford ranger 2.9 v6 that i picked up the other day for 600 bucks. It is a manual transmission and i threw every part at it that i read about on these threads. the guy that sold it to me sold it for the reason that it would just die out of nowhere when the truck warmed up and he was driving it at intersections and what not. i figured it would be an easy fix but i was about ready to sell this truck after days of trial and error until finally I figured it out!!!!! i will attach detailed instructions on what i did. if it doesnt go through feel free to message me.
 

justin276

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1986 Ranger / 2.3 EFI Gas / 5-speed / 4 Cylinder / 140 Cid / SOHC

Well here we go once again! :dunno:

I have posted here before on my stalling issues, but here is somewhat of an update. I replaced my in-line fuel filter on June 4th, and still having doggy problems. This does not happen all the time when I drive, but mysteriously happens at any given time. The mechanic agreed it was dogging out on his test drive. He replaced the Fuel filter and cleaned the IAC (intake air control) located off my air filter housing on passengers side. He also increased my idle on the throttle body.
He agreed that replacing the filter may or may not help my problem, and also said this is a process of elimination trying to diagnose what exactly is causing this, but thinks it sounds more of a fuel problem than vacuum or emissions. BUT he could be wrong.

He said that he found metal shavings in my fuel filter (it’s the original and 26 years old) no doubt from my fuel pump, which appears to be breaking down because of it’s age.

So last night I attempted to go to the store. I started it up, and then put it in 1st gear, then it stalled. I had to rev it up pretty much, and kept it high RPMS for a couple of minutes, then let it just warm up for about ten minutes, this somewhat helped. I proceeded to the store, and I successfully made it back home, (Hooray!) but this uncertainly when and where this will conk out is driving me bananas!

So I’m thinking …
Fuel injector service...has not been done in years.
Fuel pressure regulator...I can get to the front two allen screws, but not the back closest to the fuel solenoid injector rod. Is there special tool, or just need patience and time unscrewing that screw? This could be causing stalling?
OR it maybe these things…..

EGR valve,
Cap and Rotor,
TFI Module...have replaced three in 26 years.
Replace my IAC valve?...I’ve only cleaned it, never replaced it.
ECC relay, I’ve already replaced my fuel relay. need help with wiring of spade locations. (previous posts, photos here in this forum)
Map sensor, etc.
Maybe my problems are both fuel and emissions?

It’s hard to diagnose without replacing every conceivable part that are suspect.

So, if the truck needs warming up before it stops stalling out, what would be the first thing anyone would suspect other than the newly replaced fuel filter?

Someone on this, or another ford forum told me he replaced his in-line fuel filter because of similar problems on his 1987 Ranger, then went back and replaced the in-line reservoir, which I think Ford used to call the secondary fuel filter, then his problems went away.

Thanks for any help or ideas to shorten my list of potential problem causing parts !

i dont know if anyone still reads this thread or has this problem but i have spent days now trying to fix this 86 ford ranger 2.9 v6 that i picked up the other day for 600 bucks. It is a manual transmission and i threw every part at it that i read about on these threads. the guy that sold it to me sold it for the reason that it would just die out of nowhere when the truck warmed up and he was driving it at intersections and what not. i figured it would be an easy fix but i was about ready to sell this truck after days of trial and error until finally I figured it out!!!!! i will attach detailed instructions on what i did. if it doesnt go through feel free to message me.
 

Shran

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i dont know if anyone still reads this thread or has this problem but i have spent days now trying to fix this 86 ford ranger 2.9 v6 that i picked up the other day for 600 bucks. It is a manual transmission and i threw every part at it that i read about on these threads. the guy that sold it to me sold it for the reason that it would just die out of nowhere when the truck warmed up and he was driving it at intersections and what not. i figured it would be an easy fix but i was about ready to sell this truck after days of trial and error until finally I figured it out!!!!! i will attach detailed instructions on what i did. if it doesnt go through feel free to message me.
I don't see what you did, do tell :)
 

justin276

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I don't see what you did, do tell :)
Don’t know why it won’t let me post pictures of parts 🤔
Ok...
1. I replaced the intake air temperature sensor which on mine was really really bad looking and all gummed up
2. I replaced the o2 sensor and right after that the problem was much better and it ran for way longer befor dying. I thought I had completely fixed it with this but go figure the next day it did it again 🙄
Finally #3!! I got to thinking since my truck has two gas tanks there has to be some sort of sensor and valve when switching fuel tanks and I don’t know about all of you guys but on my truck the rear tank is empty and even when it is full this can still happen...the threads I read were that the fuel tank selector valve goes bad in these older fords including the f-150’s and they can suck air and or just down right mess up. Well I by-passed mine completely and am currently only running the front rank and so far I haven’t had a single issue.
 

Shran

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Don’t know why it won’t let me post pictures of parts 🤔
Ok...
1. I replaced the intake air temperature sensor which on mine was really really bad looking and all gummed up
2. I replaced the o2 sensor and right after that the problem was much better and it ran for way longer befor dying. I thought I had completely fixed it with this but go figure the next day it did it again
🙄
Finally #3!! I got to thinking since my truck has two gas tanks there has to be some sort of sensor and valve when switching fuel tanks and I don’t know about all of you guys but on my truck the rear tank is empty and even when it is full this can still happen...the threads I read were that the fuel tank selector valve goes bad in these older fords including the f-150’s and they can suck air and or just down right mess up. Well I by-passed mine completely and am currently only running the front rank and so far I haven’t had a single issue.
I can't reply to your PM for some reason, but my 4 cylinder truck has been giving me issues for years. I have done a lot of troubleshooting and haven't been able to fix it yet. My motivation for fixing it is pretty low because usually once the engine warms up it's fine. I don't have dual tanks but I do feel it is fuel related - pressure is within spec when the engine is running but it immediately drains off when the pump stops running. I think I may try replacing the fuel reservoir next... that's kinda the one thing I haven't done yet.
 


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