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475,000 mile F7 rear axle


Paisano

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Ok, It's almost a year later and I have to replace this rear axle assembly whether I want to or not.
I've been doing some more reading online. I should have all the tools I need.

I will be doing this myself without any assistant. I can get blocks/bricks/or more jack stands. But what is normally used to raise the new assembly?
I got a floor jack at home.

What about this reman assembly with 7.5 ring gear and 3.73 ratio? I don't do towing or off-roading. Since my old one is also 7.5, will it be a direct match with pinion and companion flange bolt holes?

 


superj

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you are swapping the rear axle assembly out with another? the way i have done it that worked the easiest was to unbolt the old one, lift the vehicle up enough to roll out the old assembly and roll the new one in place, then lower the vehicle back down and hook everything back up.
 

Paisano

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Correct, I'm swapping out the old complete rear axle assembly with another one.
Oh.......You mean install the drum brake parts and put the tires one............let the old assembly drop down a couple inches (or whatever)right on the tires..............then put the tires on the new assembly.............roll into place..............and lower the truck onto the new assembly..................Yes?

This method sounds brilliant. But I hope the tires don't get in the way of my work space.

I can do it in 3 weeks when I have vacation. I don't know if I have time to shop around at the junkyard. It might need to be done before that.

I'll look online tonight for used assemblies I can buy in Phoenix
 
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superj

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09fx4guy

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Paisano- If you have 4wd, and want to replace the axle, THE RATIOS MUST MATCH!!!!! You cannot put a 3.73 rear in if the front is a 4.10 ratio. You will break many, many parts when you try to put it in 4WD.

However, if you have a RWD truck, you can switch the ratio without much issue.


When you are going to do it, raise the truck up and support it by the frame. Remove the rear wheels. Use a floor jack to support the rear axle and lower it. When it is as low as it can go, disconnect the shocks and u bolts, and brake hardware. When it is disconnected, move it out using the floor jack to support it, or maybe a couple of cheap dollies. It will be a little heavy, but not unmanageable. Do the reverse to install.

If it were me, I would use new u bolts. I know some people like to reuse them, but I don't. Its not a part I would want to be cheap on when I drive it everyday. If it was a farm truck, that's different.
 

Paisano

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Thanks for letting me know. I have push-button 4WD. But the shift motor has been broke for years. So I never use 4WD.

So can I use a different rear ratio from the front ratio then?

I am already having trouble finding a rear axle assembly. I don't think there is much time left on my current rear axle.
 

Roert42

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You can in this instance you a different ratio.

However if you ever get the 4WD working and try to use it you can serious damage. as long as the transfer case stays in 2wd it will not matter.
 

Paisano

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OK. I understand about not mixing front and rear gear ratios with 4WD. And I do have 4.10 front and rear

I might have to go with any compatible rear axle assembly that I can get my hands on.

Please confirm a few points for me. I read all your responses.

1. Either a 7.5 or 8.8 inch axle with ANY gear ratio within a certain range of model years,,,,,will fit on my 92' Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6.........correct?

2. Will brakes lines, parking brake cable, shock absorber mounting, axle mounting all be DIRECT FIT ?
( I know I might need different drive shaft flange or yoke with an 8.8)

3. Will I need to take my drive shaft to a shop to be re-balanced?

4. Will my automatic transmission shifting get screwed up with a different axle?
 

Roert42

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1. Yes

2. Mounts for springs and shocks will be ok. Brake lines may not match up perfectly but be very similar. You will probably want to replace the brakes and brake lines on an used axel anyway, so it a bit of a moot point.

3. No

4. No
 

Paisano

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Ok. Thanks. I will keep looking for a complete assembly. Then I will see what I need for parts.

I assume the wheel stud configuration will be the same for it to align with the holes in the rims?
 

Roert42

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Wheel stud layout is the same for all years, I think, 5x4.5".

Depending on the brake setup you may need different wheels. 14" wheels don't fit over some of the brakes on the newer axels, would need 15" minimum. I'm not sure exactly what brakes fit under the 14"s and what one don't.
 

superj

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it will be if its from another ranger or explorer, as long as its not one of the new style ranger/explorers. they will be 5x4.5.

if you really get stuck, you should also be able to use a rear end from a jeep cherokee or jeep comanche, from 85ish to 2001. they will also be rear leaf spring and have the 5x4.5 bolt pattern. i am not sure how much other thing will need work to fit them but if you get stuck, they are options

most jeeps are dana 35 rear ends in 3.55, 3.73, or 4.10 but some will be dana 44 or chrysler 8.25
 

Paisano

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Ahhh..................Good to know. Glad I asked. I guess I'll have to measure the bolt hole to bolt hole distance and pattern to make sure
 

superj

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3 liters of tire smoking power
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235s
My credo
Grew up in the 70s, 80s, and 90s
if your axle is a stock ford axle, its 5x4.5. and those specific jeep ones are 5x4.5 with leaf spring perches on them already, too. lots of jeeps are 5x4.5 but only those have leaf spring set up already. but check for your own information so you know and can check it off the list of things to worry about
 

Paisano

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Ok. Thanks, Superj. It is a stock Ford axle.
There is a Ford only junkyard in Phoenix. It is the ONLY junkyard where I ever found what I was looking for. Kind of strange they are only open weekdays 9-5.
 

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