2150a question

[ChopTop84]

I think Ive just about got all the emissions control crap working on my 84 B2. Truck runs good at everything but an idle.

Ive fixed all my vacuum leaks (half my tubes were rotten), and can pull down my vacuum gauge to *almost* "normal" range, but it still wont run right at idle. EGR valve seems to test fine, the idle motor on the throttle moves in and out. But Im still lean.

Ive pulled all my codes and there is actually only a couple, but I feel they are related to the poor idling.

Pulled the top of the carb off and ran the motor with the top off (love flat top carbs that you can do that with) and found that the float level is fine, but I did make a discovery....

If I plugged the air passage on the top of the carb, that feeds that idle air control valve or whatever it is on the backside of the carb, then it idles awsome. So Im guessing Im pulling way to much air thru it.

I keep reading about this "manual metering valve" replacement, but I cant find anything that shows a picture or a part number. In fact, my google-fu is weak on this one, as I cant find much of anything on the 2150a that doesnt just link right back to this website!

ya ya ya, I know all about the duraspark conversions, and mechanical carbs, but thats not an option right now. Im not ready to put 200 bucks into a truck I only paid 200 bucks for to begin with

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Hey did you try unplugging the feedback solenoid on the back of the carb if it is clicking it is probably working ok. do you have the locking caps over the idle air adjusting needles. The best way to adjust the idle is with a vacuum guage get it running then unplug the idle control motor and turn the idle needles out to get the max vacuum then pklug the motor back in it should idle down make sure the anti deisel screw is not holding the butterfly open. call me it is easier to explain over the phone 206-909-3308 Kim

 

[ChopTop84]

My air screws are exposed. Ive played with them too, but I think all my questions are for naught.

I did the tried and true old fashioned, hose the intake in carb cleaner trick, and as long as I hosed the lowest intake gasket, the motor seemed to idle OK. Ive pulled the carb, the spacer, and the lower carb riser with the EGR attached and it appears my lower gasket has gone hard and brittle and was letting just enough air past to mess with me.

Id still be interested in knowing the part number for the manual meter circuit just in case I still need to go that route. I have heard my feedback motor clicking in the past, but didnt pay attention to it tonight.

Anyone see anything wrong with this gasket?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

If the computer is working correct you wont get it to run any better with the duraspark anyway. mine liked it rich on the idle air because of the feedback valve you need more turns out on the needles mine were about 3 1/2 turns out to run good and still got good mileage until the computer took a crap. Make sure the timing is 10 degrees btdc with the spout unplugged plug the spot in
and dial in the idle air needles for max vacuum, adjust the curb idle by turning the engine off the plunger should fully extend then unplug it and start the engine and put it in gear auto or neutral with a manual with the wheels blocked and adjust the position of the idle motor to get around 750-800 rpm and lock it down then plug it back in. The antideisel screw is what would be the idle adjust screw that holds the butterfly open you want that to almost touch the throttle lever at an idle it keeps the butterfly from closing all the way when you let you foot off the gas quick. Then set the choke fast idle cold. Also when it is idleing check the egr by putting manifold vacuum to it at an idle it should stall the motor.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Their is no part number for the mertering block you need to make one what was the highest vacuum you were able to get with it.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

The egr system actually looks nice and clean meaning the valve guide seals are probably in good shape yea bolt it back together with a new gasket I would get a new egr gasket also and then check the egr for leaking valve and the seal for the plunger push the plunger in with your thumb and plug the hole and blow in the other hole ther should be no or very little leakage then let the plunger out and it should be the same but you need a new gasket if you take it apart and it checks out good.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I have a new feedback solenoid actually alot of stuff you can have off of my ranger if you want to come get it<a href="http://s984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/kimcrwbr1/?action=view&current=IMG_0236.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/kimcrwbr1/IMG_0236.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> let me know

 

[kimcrwbr1]

well let me try again

 

[ChopTop84]

Their is no part number for the mertering block you need to make one what was the highest vacuum you were able to get with it.

ahhh. Directions anywhere on that?

Highest vacuum sitting at idle was 18 before it leans out and dies. Pulling my reading off the vacuum port T on the back of the intake. As it leans out, the vacuum reading drops and drops until it just dies. For what its worth, when I started all this, I was below 15. My gauge says 20+ to be "correct".

NAPA has the base gasket in stock, so I will get that tomorrow and put it back together. After hosing the lower gasket with carb cleaner while it was running, and having it run better, Im gonna fixate on the gasket until I can find something else wrong.

Ive tried to do the base idle adjusting and all that, but it wont idle long enough to do it right. Leans out. During one of my code readings, it even kicked back a HEGO LEAN code. Pretty sure I get this gasket issue squared up, things should go smoother and I can finish setting all the base idle adjustments.

Ive manually tested the EGR valve with it in my hand. Apply vacuum, and port opens. Wont pass air with the port closed. Best I can tell, its working fine.

Need to get the 84 running right, so I can go start working on getting the 87 running. That one "should" be easy, just need to put an explorer fuel pump in it and replace a few missing trinkets.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

Dizzy cap and rotor computer (auto) vacuum solenoids TPSs feedback solenoid (new) idle motor (new) vacuum lines wires and connectors just come pick them up I`m in maplevalley about 45 min away let me know.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

At 18 your doing real good for the 2.8 probably was just not rich enough the book says 17 to 21 as long as the needle was steady 18 is just fine.

 

[ChopTop84]

Dizzy cap and rotor computer (auto) vacuum solenoids TPSs feedback solenoid (new) idle motor (new) vacuum lines wires and connectors just come pick them up I`m in maplevalley about 45 min away let me know.

May take you up on that. I have to run up to North Bend tomorrow and ride over with a friend to look at a boat in Yakima. He's coming down from Canada-eh early in the morning, but I should be heading back late afternoon. Ive got your number from the post above, I can give you a call when Im heading south for home. Will basically have to drive thru maple valley anywayz.

 

[kimcrwbr1]

My ranger is a 83 but all the parts are for a 84

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I`m maybe 10 mins away from covington off hwy 18 just go east on kent kangley 272nd to the plamor tavern take a right and the second left and the second right down fourth trailer on the left. Do you know what time I will be going up to brier in the afternoon.

 

[ChopTop84]

Sounds good. I'll give you a call tomorrow. DOnt know what time. However long it takes to get to yakima and back and maybe have a boat in tow. Leaving northbend at 8am. If tomorrow doesnt work, then next week is fine. I have a wedding to perform this weekend, so I will be out of town.