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2002 F250 diesel - discovery and build thread.


85_Ranger4x4

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Unfortunately I would say she has eaten more than just dirt... :fie:
 


ericbphoto

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Unfortunately I would say she has eaten more than just dirt... :fie:
Yeah. The metal off those blades had to go somewhere.

And yet. This truck is heavier than my Fun50 was, feels more powerful and gets better fuel economy in its current state than the Fun50 did. This Phoenix will rise from the ashes and live on in glory.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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Yeah. The metal off those blades had to go somewhere.

And yet. This truck is heavier than my Fun50 was, feels more powerful and gets better fuel economy in its current state than the Fun50 did. This Phoenix will rise from the ashes and live on in glory.
Maybe they robbed an engine out of another truck and stuck the old turbo back on it...
 

ericbphoto

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My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Maybe they robbed an engine out of another truck and stuck the old turbo back on it...
If those guys couldn't bother to keep a decent air filter in it, I doubt they expended the effort to swap a big heavy engine. Heck. If they had touched the engine at all, they would have accidentally knocked some of this dirt and grime off of it. It wouldn't be any dirtier if you actually shoveled dirt into this engine bay. I've never seen an engine this filthy.
 

85_Ranger4x4

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If those guys couldn't bother to keep a decent air filter in it, I doubt they expended the effort to swap a big heavy engine. Heck. If they had touched the engine at all, they would have accidentally knocked some of this dirt and grime off of it. It wouldn't be any dirtier if you actually shoveled dirt into this engine bay. I've never seen an engine this filthy.
Just sayin, they mixed everything else around.
 

bobbywalter

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woodhaven mi
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BIGGER
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4WD
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sawzall?
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33-44
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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
well.


at least your not wasting your time on a 6.4....
 

bobbywalter

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V8
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BIGGER
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Automatic
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4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
i looked through my turbo pile....dont have any of those in it. i thought i did...i do have a nice banks for a 7.3 idi though.....

it is intended to go on the ranger.....when it get a GEP block.
 

scotts90ranger

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Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
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4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
I do have an original '97 turbo, don't think the cold side looked that bad but whatever it's got going on made the engine run hot... but I think they changed the turbo in mid '99... I replaced it with a new Borg Warner unit from Bell Turbo for like $750. I think going to a wicked wheel is the best bet, getting the turbo and pedestal out isn't a fun job... doing that is why I own a set of wobbly sockets in 1/4" drive and the wobbly 1/4" ratchet...
 

ericbphoto

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3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
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2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
i looked through my turbo pile....dont have any of those in it. i thought i did...i do have a nice banks for a 7.3 idi though.....

it is intended to go on the ranger.....when it get a GEP block.
Thanks for looking. Matt is helping me with my questions and, of course, recommending parts. He's a great resource.

There is a turbo at the junk yard that I could get. But it's Impeller is almost as bad AND it has play in the bearings. Not worth the effort.
 

ericbphoto

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Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
I do have an original '97 turbo, don't think the cold side looked that bad but whatever it's got going on made the engine run hot... but I think they changed the turbo in mid '99... I replaced it with a new Borg Warner unit from Bell Turbo for like $750. I think going to a wicked wheel is the best bet, getting the turbo and pedestal out isn't a fun job... doing that is why I own a set of wobbly sockets in 1/4" drive and the wobbly 1/4" ratchet...
Ooh. More tools to buy. I just need around $360 to get the wicked wheel and the rebuild kit.
 

scotts90ranger

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Vehicle Year
1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Dang, looks like those sockets got more expensive in the last 2 years... Looks like I got 6 point metric in both 1/4 and 3/8 drive from Amazon which are about $100 for the pair now... I used the 1/4 drive more for this project...
 

bobbywalter

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Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
I do have an original '97 turbo, don't think the cold side looked that bad but whatever it's got going on made the engine run hot... but I think they changed the turbo in mid '99... I replaced it with a new Borg Warner unit from Bell Turbo for like $750. I think going to a wicked wheel is the best bet, getting the turbo and pedestal out isn't a fun job... doing that is why I own a set of wobbly sockets in 1/4" drive and the wobbly 1/4" ratchet...
did you have the astros? they quit selling them.
 

scotts90ranger

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1990, 1997
Make / Model
Ford
Engine Type
2.3 (4 Cylinder)
Engine Size
2.3 Turbo
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6
Tire Size
35"
Powerbuilt and Ares from the looks of my orders... if you don't already have one get one of THESE swivel head ratchets, they're near magical on some situations and makes a nice ratcheting nut driver if the space allows...
 

ericbphoto

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Location
Wellford, SC
Vehicle Year
1993
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
3.0 V6
Engine Size
3.0L
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
6"
Tire Size
35"
My credo
In theory, theory and practice are the same. In practice, they are different.
Holy cow! Did I ever bite off a project? Trying to get the turbo out today, so I'll be ready to replace Y casting on the back of it. I still haven't really figured out how to reach the passenger side up-pipe bolts. So far, I've removed the inner fender liner. Then I got the exhaust outlet pipe loose at both ends. But couldn't get it out of the way until I removed the transmission support cross-member. Once that was out, I got the bottom of the up-pipe loose and, since the packing at the top is blown out, I could slip the up-pipe out if the upper flange and remove it without loosening those bolts. I've got about 2 1/2 hrs of work time left today before I have to cleannup and go to an appointment. I should probably have removed the transmission. But that's something I would rather avoid.

Do I really have to put all this stuff back?
20231114_123835.jpg


Inner fender liner
20231114_123839.jpg


Tutbo exhaust outlet is right behind the lifting tab. The up-pipe flange is behind and below that.
20231114_123903.jpg


There it is. Clamp and bolts still intact.
20231114_123931.jpg
 

Roert42

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