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2.9L timing help

Paulos

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Check the ignition module connector. I have found that some of the new modules have thinner blades/male spade connections and they don't play nice with the old tired connectors.
A temporary fix is to pry out the red plastic keeper inside the connector and carefully bend the contacts with a very small screwdriver to tighten them up a little. This happened to me a couple years ago after I replaced the ignition module, and the truck mysteriously shut down halfway to work the next morning. I replaced the connector after work and haven't had anymore issues since then. Tightening up the old connector won't cost you anything but a few minutes of your time, and it got me to and from work that day. Advance had the connector in stock, but Rock Auto is a lot cheaper.
 


Bootz1385

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I don't know anything about the 2.3. Like any engine it to will have problems to. These EECIV are sometimes trying though. Try looking under the tech library under eec-iv/tfi-iv, or listen to franklin2 closely.
So I think I found the main issue talking to some ford techs and the previous owner. His son Couldn't get it to idle and messed with the idle screw. Does anyone know how to adjust this back to factory. Also the truck is backfiring really bad. When I did the timing gears the tab on the aftermarket crank pully broke. I turned the cam pully back to line up the marks and reassembled. Is it one rotation of the crank to half rotation of the cam or did I mess that up bad?

63995
 

dirtymike

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Timing marks are lined up. The #1 piston should be at TDC with both valves closed. Im not seeing much in the way of why it wont run. Theres a trick to set the "idle" screw, don't know if that is what they call it with a EFI. Its in the tech library i think. Mine is just turned in enough to touch the linkage and take pressure off the plate spring in the Throttle body.
 

fastpakr

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To get an approximate setting on the throttle screw, you can unplug the IAC and crank in the screw until it just barely stays running (think ~600rpm). Then use a volt meter to check the IAC - I think that's supposed to be returning around .9 volts at base idle but I can't remember for sure. There's a limited room for adjustment on the IAC to get that correct by loosening its mounting screws. Then tighten everything down and reconnect the IAC plug.
 

Paulos

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Here you go.

Throttle plate adjustment.jpg

Throttle plate adjustment.jpg
 

Bootz1385

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After setting the idle screw I took a break. Came bake to the truck today and it fires right off. It is still running rough. After many hours of testing switches and relay and valves it still seems off. Did the spark plug test with it running and have cylinder 2,3,5 down still. Redid the compression test and they tested well. tested for spark and have great spark. Spark plugs are black and smell of gas (running rich). There is a bad backfire. What should I be testing next?

p.s. The truck is for sale.
 

fastpakr

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Where's the woodruff key for your crankshaft in the photo above (post 32)?
 

franklin2

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Do you have a testlight that you can put on injectors 2 3 and 5 to see if they are firing like they should? I re-read the thread and see you put in new injectors. They send 12v to the injectors all the time the key is on, and then the computer grounds the other side of the injector to fire it. If you had a wiring problem with the injectors and that one wire was grounding out, it might make the injectors stay on all the time.
 

franklin2

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Here's a diagram of your injector wiring. You can see they are wired in groups of 3, so this engine is what they call "batch fire". They fire the injector for only 1/2 the amount of fuel the cylinder needs. So it may fire with the intake closed, and that fuel puddles behind there and waits, and the next time it fires it injects the other 1/2 of the required fuel and it's all sucked into the cylinder. Problem is, according to the diagram below they are not grouped 2, 3, and 5 like you said.

But you can see the red 12v wire feeds all of them and it's powered all the time. One wire is grounded to fire one group of 3 injectors, and the other wire is grounded to fire the other group.

 

dirtymike

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Well, which way did he go george?
 

Bootz1385

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Sorry had a busy weekend with work. I retested the compression to make sure I didn't drop a valve and compression was good. Retested spark and have good spark to all cylinders. Changed the plugs back out to coper plugs and still dead on the 2,3,5 cylinders. Did the test light test you recommended and with the truck key on, I have power at both terminals of all injectors. The truck running at all plugs of the injectors I have constant power on the power (red) terminal. The other terminal Flickers very very fast (which I think is normal). I have a feeling these cheaper Fuel injectors fouled out already. What other injectors can I put in here as I have heard some mustang and other ford injectors work. I ask because I may have some good ones in the shop.

Also thank you guys for your continued help. It means a lot.
 
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fastpakr

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If you've covered this, I apologize...

Has the fuel filter been replaced and the fuel pressure verified? What's the history on the truck - did it set at some point for a long time? I'm really wondering what the condition is of the fuel that's getting to the injectors.
 

Bootz1385

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When I first got the truck It had been sitting for about 6-8 months. When I went to Change out the fuel filter the housing broke. So I replaced it with a metal in line filter and ran new fuel injector lines all the way to the tank. I also dropped the tank and cleaned it. Fresh gas and all new stock fuel pumps both in tank and HP. Also a new Fuel pressure regulator. FP is at 44.
 

fastpakr

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I can't remember on the 2.9 - is it a pain to get to the injectors? If not, pull one of the ones that isn't firing and see how bad it looks.

Also - you can get your OEM injectors rebuilt at a very reasonable price. Eric Derr has an impeccable reputation. IIRC, mine were back in my hands within 7 days from the time I put them in the mail. I think it was around $100 total for a set of 8 cleaned, serviced, and balanced.
 

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