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2.9L timing help

rang-a-stang

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Nah. I was able to just reach up with a deep socket to get it out.

I did 2 things
A) I ordered one of these:
Knock sensor for 3.8L 4.2L 4.6L 94DA12A699AA
Because I am pretty sure it is physcially the same form fit and function as the original knock sensor. I am hoping it is "close enough" for my computer.
B) I spent about 3 hours calling wrecking yards. No one had one. One wrecking yard in Sacremento referred me to "a guy that has a bunch of Ranger parts". I called that guy and he found one but the connector is broken (I am buying it anyway). He is still looking for more and thinks he may have a couple more. I plan to buy all the ones he has in hopes that at least one of them still works.

So, to be clear, mine is still broken too but my symptoms are almost exactly the same.
 


dirtymike

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Looked up your part, it seems that it is the wrong one. When i do a search in any browser or in a auto parts store it comes up with nothing. Dirty
 

dirtymike

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I searched the manual and it mentioned the CPS in the 2.3 and the 4.0 and their location are on the timing gear cover. It doesn't mention the 2.9 at all, or i cannot find it. Dirty
 
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rang-a-stang

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Yeah, I hear you! The eBay one is not for the 2.9 but I am hoping it fits. Knock sensors all generally work the same but are “tuned” to the engine they are designed to fit. My hope is this one fits and works but I assume it will not pick up knocks as well as the correct one will.

there was one NOS Ford 2.9 knock sensor on eBay last week but it was $89+shipping. I am not sure enough it is my problem to invest in a $100 sensor.

the wiring for the knock sensor is in the EVTM but I don’t know of any way to test the sensor itself other than KOER. My truck is tripping a 25 and I have checked resistance from the connector ground pin to ground, and resistance from the connector to the computer and both wires are good. So my thought is if the wires are good and it’s still showing a 25 from KOER, it’s either the sensor itself or the computer.
 

dirtymike

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I've never changed a CPS or a ECM on a 2.9l. Guess I've been lucky.
 

franklin2

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You do know if you do not run the KOER test properly, you will get a code 25 and a few others. Are you doing the goose test when it tells you during the KOER test procedure? If you do that properly and still get a code 25, the guy in the book says to run the test again and when it prompts you for the goose test, tap on the engine block with a hammer. That should make the code 25 go away.
 

dirtymike

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Them LFH,s have a tendency to clear them up, either way you'll be happy a while!
 

edj

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Hi Bootz,
This may be a dumb question, but when you replaced dist cap and/or plug wires is it possible you put the wires on the cap in the wrong rotation? You may have the firing order correct, but maybe put them on the cap in the wrong rotation. (I'm embarrassed to suggest this, but my 2.9 sounded similar when I made that mistake.) I was surprised it would even run, it just didn't have any power.
Just throwing this out there.
 

rang-a-stang

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Hmmm... no I did not know that. I'll try it. I have cleared the codes both by restarting my code reader while it was spitting out codes and by unhooking the battery for a night. Both times I re-ran KOER and get another 25. I will try tapping the side of the block with my hammer next time I wrench.
 

franklin2

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Hmmm... no I did not know that. I'll try it. I have cleared the codes both by restarting my code reader while it was spitting out codes and by unhooking the battery for a night. Both times I re-ran KOER and get another 25. I will try tapping the side of the block with my hammer next time I wrench.
Make sure you do it during the goose test period. If you have the book for your reader, it should tell you when it happens and what to look for so you know when to do it. One of the codes you will get if you just tap with the hammer will be one that says the engine did not reach 2000rpm during the test. Of course it didn't if you are tapping with the hammer and not goosing the throttle.

What happens is during the goose test, the computer advances the timing up, and then you are supposed to goose the throttle. With the timing advanced like that it should ping and that is verification that the knock sensor is working. But apparently some of them are stubborn and the hammer trick helps verify it does work.
 

rang-a-stang

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3"
Tire Size
31x10.50R15
For the record, tapped the block during KOER while my son goosed it. Still got a 25 with my knock sensor. I installed the knock sensor I got used, repeated KOER, and everything worked (no more 25, if I tap the block around the time the test asked to be goosed). I also watched my timing afterward. At idle, it's about 18 degrees. If I goose it, rev it, etc. it advances up to about 32 as it should. If I pull the spout, it locks at 10 degrees. I also noticed if it is idling normally (no KOER) and I tap on the block, I can hear the idle adjusting; another little test to verify the knock sensor is working.

I started another thread for my issues so I do not hijack this one.

Earlier in this thread, I also mentioned I ordered a Knock sensor for a 3.8L. It is NOT physically the same and will NOT thread into the 2.9L block. The wiring connector is the same but the knock sensor does not fit.
 

Warboyz

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It might be something you've already done but I had a somewhat similar journey where I was throwing parts left and right at my Ranger and ultimately, it was a stupid ground connection hiding on the back side of the battery.. I tried cleaning it a few times but ultimately made a crimped connection and it solved everything.. I can only assume that it was some ground associated with the ECU or something as I didn't officially chase it down. I was just glad to be done the battle.
 

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