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2.9 to 4.0 swap misfire ?


Crashtest84

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Swap was a 89 2.9 to a 4.0 unknown engine yr but using 91 ecm and harness. first I will give you a lil laugh after getting the engine harness in place I put my old 2.9 ecm on it not knowing. Fought with it for about a day then checked. But it still doesn't run right with the 4.0 ecm. Its not firing on the 1,2and 4 cylinders. I have spark at the coil on all 6 and the wires test good. Tonight i replaced the plugs no change.

Things I have not checked fuel pressure, compression or any sensors as far as I know the CEL is not on but I might not have that wire hooked up. It has a new fuel filter and I have cleaned the mafs. I am sumped on why its the 1,2 and 4 cylinders
 


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if you have fire on all 6 at the coil pack... change the plug wires.

oh. nevermind. missed that part


how do you know its not firing on those cyclinders?

check your fuel pressure, you need to know it...
 

Crashtest84

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if you have fire on all 6 at the coil pack... change the plug wires.

oh. nevermind. missed that part


how do you know its not firing on those cyclinders?

check your fuel pressure, you need to know it...
Having jba headers and using an infrared thermo. the header tube temps are
cylinder # 1: 99degrees
2:105
3:487
4:200
5:490
6:497
the old plugs were pretty black like its rich on the 3,5and 6 or the hot cylinders. I wont get back out to trouble shoot anything till friday night. Im still at the :icon_confused: stage though I will have the new wires then to so I 100% rule that out. To me it seams like a fuel/ injector problem
 

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check fuel pressure first
then check injectors. swap the injectors around... check for power at the injectors.
 

Crashtest84

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sounds like a good start to me
 

Crashtest84

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Ok so Fuel pressure is at 60psi. compression is 180-190psi new. new plugs and wires.

Its running really rich till it reaches around 150dgrees maybe, then it seems to mellow out and I think run on all but the #1 cylinder. So im thinking maybe a coolant temp sensor. But not 100% sure of it. I quit for the night so back at it on the morning to test the CTS
 

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but you are firing and getting gas to 2-6 cylinders? that's good
is the check engine light on? does it come on if you turn the key on but not crank it? verify the light will light up, if so... does it have a code?

really doesn't matter, can you get your hands on a obd1 code reader? or look in the tech library and learn how to flash the codes out w/ the light or an ohms meter. see if it gives you a code.

personally, i have a innova code reader for obd 1 and 2 (one of the best tools i ever bought, btw)
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3140-Diagnostic-Scanner-Vehicles/dp/B000R3SNJU
i think mine is the 3120, the one i linked is just a newer version. its been well worths it money.

coolant temp sensors are cheap, don't buy one at autozone tho, trust me... i had a nice go around w/ 4 sensors in a row that didn't fix my problem... 1 from advance auto, problem solved. nothing else was changed/done differently. i just don't see how it could be that sensor tho.
 

Crashtest84

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I pulled the one out of my 2.9 its only a year old and came from a running motor. The cel light comes on with a system check at the key turn. but I don't know if I have the wire hooked up. I don't have all the wiring done. Just what I need to get the motor running to make sure all is well.
 

Crashtest84

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Ok its running stupid rich. mafs checks out ok with a voltage check. Coolant temp sensor checks out ok. New air intake sensor.

Still missing on #1cylinder all the time along with random misfires. Im at a loss here out of ideas. weird thing i unplugged the map maf and air intake temp and the idle smoothed out. I tried to pull cel codes but something isn't right im not getting anything from the eec
 

Crashtest84

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So I don't know how I over looked the 60psi. Had a bad FPR but now still have a high idle. Like about 1000 to 1200. The cell is on so I guess I will try and pull the codes tomorrow.
 

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??

So I don't know how I over looked the 60psi. Had a bad FPR but now still have a high idle. Like about 1000 to 1200. The cell is on so I guess I will try and pull the codes tomorrow.
Did you ever get it figured out?:icon_confused:
 

Crashtest84

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Sorry, yeah the FPR was the main problem. But after 2 months of driving it still idles at 900 to 1200rpm and has a surge untill I come to a stop. Thats the weird thing to me it will idle surge when I push in the clutch to coast to a stop but as soon as I get to about 5mph it will stop and idle between 900-1200
 

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