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1990 Ranger Long Term


rockin86ranger

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Yeah if you dont have much experience with body work you really dont want to start on a peice with a lot of dents, it can be very stressful and in the end you'd probably be better off just replacing the part. But if you have something with just a couple of dents or something go for it, if you have any problems or questions PM me I'm more than happy to help in anyway i can.
 


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if they dont have a crease and arent in body like sometime you can pop them out and its harder to do on smaller dents. but if there is any kind of a crease or fold they wont just pop out. The problem with just poping them out is that when a dent occurs the metal gets stretched, so there will still be a faint ring where the dent was, and the area will be easier to dent again. even just leaning against it could cause the dent to reappear. to fix it properly the dent needs to be pulled out and locked into place. there are several ways of doing this, my favorite one involves a torch, but you can also lock it back in with just hammers in dollies. the thing is that every dent is unique and requires a slightly different technique.

but to properly fix the dent you have pull it and reshrink the metal which mean you'll have to primer and repaint that area.

however some of your dents might be able to be popped out and look acceptable for a driver. the bottom of your fender and your door won't just pop out, but some of the smaller ones might. (just looked again and looks like all your major dents are either creased or on a body line, so its gonna take some more work)

for body work pull the dent to within 1/8inch of where its suppose to be, lock it in, bondo, sand, reapply bondo, sand (repeat until correct form and not more than 1/8inch of bond) primer, sand, primer, sand (until 100% smooth), make sure to sand out all scrathes with atleast 400grit but 600grit is better, then sealer, paint, paint, paint, (until covered), clear, clear, clear, bake/cure. buff if needed
It's weird, i have the patience to hunt electrical grimlins, to tear down engines and transmissions, to tweak things untill the work perfectly, but i do not have the patience for body work. When i start to do body work i always end up with a power tool of some kind in my hand and make an excuse to replace the panel. Air chisels are wonderful excuse makers....
 

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I would say at least find a vortec 350 if your set on a sbc. As for body work, look on youtube for tutorials, it definitely takes patience, and you have to do everything right or it will turn out like poo. I paint for a living, been in the business 9 years now (that includes high school), and still screw up from time to time lol.
 

rockin86ranger

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It's weird, i have the patience to hunt electrical grimlins, to tear down engines and transmissions, to tweak things untill the work perfectly, but i do not have the patience for body work. When i start to do body work i always end up with a power tool of some kind in my hand and make an excuse to replace the panel. Air chisels are wonderful excuse makers....
Lol i am a VERY patient guy, I do that electrical crap when others quite, and tear downs and all that jazz. But i absolutely do not have the patience for final fitment, worrying if a bodyline is 1/16 of inch off, if the door has any spring when it opens,...... I drive an 95 taurus, 86 ranger, and 85 Chevy(that you literally have to roll down the window to get enough leverage to shut the door.) so what if the door doesnt fall shut or pops slightly when you pull the handle (i like a little pop to my doors). I will get it very close, but not perfect.
 

adamshadow2008

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Lol i am a VERY patient guy, I do that electrical crap when others quite, and tear downs and all that jazz. But i absolutely do not have the patience for final fitment, worrying if a bodyline is 1/16 of inch off, if the door has any spring when it opens,...... I drive an 95 taurus, 86 ranger, and 85 Chevy(that you literally have to roll down the window to get enough leverage to shut the door.) so what if the door doesnt fall shut or pops slightly when you pull the handle (i like a little pop to my doors). I will get it very close, but not perfect.
I am good that I can sit down and take my time on most anything. Measure, try it, measure, try it, cuss at it, measure, try it. Regretfully I just do not have much time on my hands right now. Have not had a chance to get back at the floor scraping, and probably wont until this weekend. You would think I was getting paid to work or something. :icon_confused:
 

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Here is what they looked like round one of painting. Regretfully I followed the rattle can instructions and not what everyone on here said. So this weekend, weather allowing I will be sanding, PRIMING, and then repainting. As i was cleaning the pieces today getting ready to reinstall them I noticed a lot of paint chipping.
 
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rockin86ranger

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i think you accidentally painted some of your truck parts while you where painting your newspaper, Dont worry if you get to it quick enough you should be able to get it all off with paint thinner.
 

adamshadow2008

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i think you accidentally painted some of your truck parts while you where painting your newspaper, Dont worry if you get to it quick enough you should be able to get it all off with paint thinner.
:icon_rofl: the pieces got moved around many times while they were being painted never in the same place so the news paper might have got a little paint on it
 

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Most of the interior pieces are done, little painting left to do if it ever warms up.

Gave up on using a scrapper to get the sound dampner up and went with a drill with a wire brush. Use the radial wire brush that looks like this.



If you try to use the cup wire brush it wont work.

Turn the drill sideways, hold on, and make sure to have safety glasses on you will need them.

Next is to sand the floor to get 100% of the rubber up, then wait till it warms up and herculine it.
 

rockin86ranger

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Glad that worked for you, beats the heck out of a scrapper doesn't it?
 

adamshadow2008

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Glad that worked for you, beats the heck out of a scrapper doesn't it?
oh yeah would have taken me forever to finish that. Even after it was scraped I would have had to probably take a wire brush to it anyway. That or sandpaper.
 

rockin86ranger

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Sand paper and rubber don't mix, you'll get maybe 3 swipes of the paper before it clogs up and becomes worthless.

Best bet for the touch up, is either a smaller wire wheel, scrape it (try heat with it, makes it a ton easier about 90% of the time. with a heat gun, not a torch unless you like to watch your truck burn.)
 

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Sand paper and rubber don't mix, you'll get maybe 3 swipes of the paper before it clogs up and becomes worthless.

Best bet for the touch up, is either a smaller wire wheel, scrape it (try heat with it, makes it a ton easier about 90% of the time. with a heat gun, not a torch unless you like to watch your truck burn.)
Just use my wire brush to finish it off then, couple of tight places that will be hard to get to with the drill.
 

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Well best way to learn is from your mistakes. Was prepping to reinstall the interior today only to notice a decent bit of paint chipping. Never follow the rattle can instructions. Built in primer my ass. So starting tomorow Ill be sanding, priming, and then painting again. Yay... lesson learned.
 

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Looks good.....

annnnnnd....I thought that I needed 400+ h.p.

but I wuz rong.......

300 h.p. will get it s-s-s-sideways just fine with a 4-barrel/aluminum intake/mech. distrib./headers/stock cam with 1.6 rockers/ported-polished/stock flat-top pistons/lectric radiator fan/dual cats & exhaust.........

any more than the above is extras :yahoo:
 
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