2.3L ('83-'97) 1990 Ranger 2.3L A/C replacement

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

hello, I have got a 1990 Ranger 2.3 liter and I need to replace the air conditioner compressor, I want to replace pretty much the whole system except for the lines. I've been online looking and I can't find anything listed for a 2.3, does anyone know why an air conditioner compressor for a 2.9 liter would not fit the 2.3? Also, can anyone recommend a good brand? I will greatly appreciate any information you can give me. P.S., My old system was an R12 system, is there anything special I need to do while retro fitting?

 

[franklin2]

Rockauto has the FS10 compressors for your truck.

Depending on what is wrong with it, there is really no need to replace everything. You will find new components can be more problems than keeping the old. If your old compressor had a catastrophic failure (locked up) then it would be a good idea to replace the condenser coil in front of the radiator. Rockuto has those also. With a catastrophic failure, you will also need to replace the orifice and flush the lines with solvent. The orifice screen will keep most of the junk out of the coil in the dash (evaporator coil).

No matter what happened, if you are replacing the compressor, you also need to replace the receiver/dryer. Most companies require this for a compressor warranty.

For the conversion, just go to Walmart or somewhere and buy the conversion kit. It will have the conversion fittings, and the conversion gas/oil mix. The conversion kit will use ester oil, which is compatible with the old r12 in case you do not get all the old oil out. PAG oil is not compatible with the old r12 oil. Stick the conversion kit in there after pulling a vacuum on the system, and you should be good to go if you do not have any leaks.

 

[corerftech]

Second on Rock Auto for that engine.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

Rockauto has the FS10 compressors for your truck.

Depending on what is wrong with it, there is really no need to replace everything. You will find new components can be more problems than keeping the old. If your old compressor had a catastrophic failure (locked up) then it would be a good idea to replace the condenser coil in front of the radiator. Rockuto has those also. With a catastrophic failure, you will also need to replace the orifice and flush the lines with solvent. The orifice screen will keep most of the junk out of the coil in the dash (evaporator coil).

No matter what happened, if you are replacing the compressor, you also need to replace the receiver/dryer. Most companies require this for a compressor warranty.

For the conversion, just go to Walmart or somewhere and buy the conversion kit. It will have the conversion fittings, and the conversion gas/oil mix. The conversion kit will use ester oil, which is compatible with the old r12 in case you do not get all the old oil out. PAG oil is not compatible with the old r12 oil. Stick the conversion kit in there after pulling a vacuum on the system, and you should be good to go if you do not have any leaks.

Rockauto has the FS10 compressors for your truck.

Depending on what is wrong with it, there is really no need to replace everything. You will find new components can be more problems than keeping the old. If your old compressor had a catastrophic failure (locked up) then it would be a good idea to replace the condenser coil in front of the radiator. Rockuto has those also. With a catastrophic failure, you will also need to replace the orifice and flush the lines with solvent. The orifice screen will keep most of the junk out of the coil in the dash (evaporator coil).

No matter what happened, if you are replacing the compressor, you also need to replace the receiver/dryer. Most companies require this for a compressor warranty.

For the conversion, just go to Walmart or somewhere and buy the conversion kit. It will have the conversion fittings, and the conversion gas/oil mix. The conversion kit will use ester oil, which is compatible with the old r12 in case you do not get all the old oil out. PAG oil is not compatible with the old r12 oil. Stick the conversion kit in there after pulling a vacuum on the system, and you should be good to go if you do not have any leaks.

1st I wanna thank you for your reply, and no I didn't have a catastrophic failure because It did not lock up. The truck sat for a couple of years while being worked on and while I had some health problems. After I got the truck running for the first time there was a puddle of yellow oil below the compressor. Now can I replace the seals in the compressor or should I go ahead and replace it? I had planned on replacing the orifice and the dryer/receiver just because they had sat for so long. My plan was to replace the compressor, dryer and orifice and then take it to someone that could do a flush and fill as I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do all that stuff. What so you think?

 

[RobbieD]

" My plan was to replace the compressor, dryer and orifice and then take it to someone that could do a flush and fill as I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do all that stuff. What so you think? "

That's OK for a plan. I would consider it a "bare minimum" approach, as it sounds like he compressor just lost it's seal, and didn't grenade.

I think that you have a good chance of getting the air working again, just going this route. Look at the old orifice when you remove it; if it's clean, great, but if it's really gunky or has particles on the screen, then that's the time to revaluate if the system needs more parts or service (like flushing).

Just be aware, after you install those parts you'll be needing a "vacuum evacuation and a recharge fill". "Flushing" is blowing a cleaning agent through each system component. Evacuating is pulling a vacuum on the system to remove all of the moisture.

Don't uncap the new drier until you put it on, and don't leave it open longer than you have to. Do the compressor first, then the drier.

 

[ABSOLOOT LOONASEA]

" My plan was to replace the compressor, dryer and orifice and then take it to someone that could do a flush and fill as I don't have the equipment or knowledge to do all that stuff. What so you think? "

That's OK for a plan. I would consider it a "bare minimum" approach, as it sounds like he compressor just lost it's seal, and didn't grenade.

I think that you have a good chance of getting the air working again, just going this route. Look at the old orifice when you remove it; if it's clean, great, but if it's really gunky or has particles on the screen, then that's the time to revaluate if the system needs more parts or service (like flushing).

Just be aware, after you install those parts you'll be needing a "vacuum evacuation and a recharge fill". "Flushing" is blowing a cleaning agent through each system component. Evacuating is pulling a vacuum on the system to remove all of the moisture.

Don't uncap the new drier until you put it on, and don't leave it open longer than you have to. Do the compressor first, then the drier.

thanks Man I appreciate your help i'm gonna give it a shot and see what happens.