oldjarhead
New Member
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2019
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 3
- Location
- Tennessee
- Vehicle Year
- 1993
- Make / Model
- Ford Ranger Spl
- Transmission
- Manual
New member and first posting.
I don't own a Ford, but my first six cars were Fords (55, 56, 61, 63, 66, 71).
My query today is on behalf of a 17 year old nephew who recently purchased a well-used and abused 1993 Ranger Splash, 4x4, 4.0, 5 speed. I have acquired for him the earliest Chilton manual for his truck and helped fund some of his needed parts, i.e, clutch and throw out kit, Nickson Clamp-a-Stud repair clamps for all four broken exhaust manifold outlet studs, etc. I want to start his tool set but I don't know if his truck's fasteners are Metric or SAE or a mixture of both.
I did a search for "Metric or SAE" but found no posts addressing my question.
I would appreciate replies providing whether or not one of the two standards is used on the truck - or whether it is a mixture and he will need sets of both SAE and Metric tools. I know he will need socket sets as well as wrenches, including Allen wrenches. If there are any commonly required special tools, I would appreciate knowing about them as well.
I started helping my nephew soon after he brought home his truck. He had found it on a local website and bought it without realizing just how many problems it had. I was initially worried that he had wasted his money, but I gradually have come to think he has bought a perfect vehicle for learning good lessons about buying and maintaining a vehicle.
I also would like to get opinions as to how big a tire "should" be used on this truck. It does not appear to have been "raised" or have any non-stock suspension parts. The current tires are "31x10.5x15" and stick out three inches beyond the fender flares. I think these tires, almost bald, are too large and might contribute to driveability issues, especially offloading in the rock-littered trails in the nearby Cumberlands. My thinking is that he should eventually replace these wheels and tires with smaller tires that won't over tax his old, poorly-maintained truck's suspension, engine and brakes. If there are safety or operational limits regarding his choice of wheels and tires, I would appreciate feedback.
I am also interested in help with ideas about repairing his non-working electric-selectable front wheel drive (4x4 activation). He and a buddy bought and installed a new t-case actuator - that had no effect. I read that the new actuator's electrical connection required changing wire terminals to match the OEM part, but I don't really understand what that would entail. If the wire rearranging IS a requirement, can he still pull the connector and change the wiring configuration? If yes, where can we find the correct configuration? (The old actuator was tossed without realizing of the possible need to copy the wiring connections.)
I have suggested he and his (young but trained mechanic) buddy try to use a vacuum pump to test the front hubs to see if they are actually capable of engaging. They haven't got that far, but I would like to know if buying and installing a set of appropriate Warn-brand manual locking hubs is a way to solve the issue of the hubs engaging. If yes, what, if any, other parts of the front-wheel-drive activation chain of devices will we have to troubleshoot and possibly repair or replace?
And one last issue. The vehicle ignition key and switch will not engage the starter when the key is turned to the "start" point. One of my nephew's buddy's Dad jury-rigged a loose-laying (on top of the dash, next to the left end of the dash) SPST momentary toggle switch that does engage the starter with the key held at the "start" point. I thought the ignition switch had a bad contact at the "start" point, but then I realized that might not be the problem because he has to hold the key in the start point while he holds the toggle switch in the "on" position. I would appreciate thoughts on what parts of the ignition system may be at fault.
Thanks in advance for your help and insights.
MDC
I don't own a Ford, but my first six cars were Fords (55, 56, 61, 63, 66, 71).
My query today is on behalf of a 17 year old nephew who recently purchased a well-used and abused 1993 Ranger Splash, 4x4, 4.0, 5 speed. I have acquired for him the earliest Chilton manual for his truck and helped fund some of his needed parts, i.e, clutch and throw out kit, Nickson Clamp-a-Stud repair clamps for all four broken exhaust manifold outlet studs, etc. I want to start his tool set but I don't know if his truck's fasteners are Metric or SAE or a mixture of both.
I did a search for "Metric or SAE" but found no posts addressing my question.
I would appreciate replies providing whether or not one of the two standards is used on the truck - or whether it is a mixture and he will need sets of both SAE and Metric tools. I know he will need socket sets as well as wrenches, including Allen wrenches. If there are any commonly required special tools, I would appreciate knowing about them as well.
I started helping my nephew soon after he brought home his truck. He had found it on a local website and bought it without realizing just how many problems it had. I was initially worried that he had wasted his money, but I gradually have come to think he has bought a perfect vehicle for learning good lessons about buying and maintaining a vehicle.
I also would like to get opinions as to how big a tire "should" be used on this truck. It does not appear to have been "raised" or have any non-stock suspension parts. The current tires are "31x10.5x15" and stick out three inches beyond the fender flares. I think these tires, almost bald, are too large and might contribute to driveability issues, especially offloading in the rock-littered trails in the nearby Cumberlands. My thinking is that he should eventually replace these wheels and tires with smaller tires that won't over tax his old, poorly-maintained truck's suspension, engine and brakes. If there are safety or operational limits regarding his choice of wheels and tires, I would appreciate feedback.
I am also interested in help with ideas about repairing his non-working electric-selectable front wheel drive (4x4 activation). He and a buddy bought and installed a new t-case actuator - that had no effect. I read that the new actuator's electrical connection required changing wire terminals to match the OEM part, but I don't really understand what that would entail. If the wire rearranging IS a requirement, can he still pull the connector and change the wiring configuration? If yes, where can we find the correct configuration? (The old actuator was tossed without realizing of the possible need to copy the wiring connections.)
I have suggested he and his (young but trained mechanic) buddy try to use a vacuum pump to test the front hubs to see if they are actually capable of engaging. They haven't got that far, but I would like to know if buying and installing a set of appropriate Warn-brand manual locking hubs is a way to solve the issue of the hubs engaging. If yes, what, if any, other parts of the front-wheel-drive activation chain of devices will we have to troubleshoot and possibly repair or replace?
And one last issue. The vehicle ignition key and switch will not engage the starter when the key is turned to the "start" point. One of my nephew's buddy's Dad jury-rigged a loose-laying (on top of the dash, next to the left end of the dash) SPST momentary toggle switch that does engage the starter with the key held at the "start" point. I thought the ignition switch had a bad contact at the "start" point, but then I realized that might not be the problem because he has to hold the key in the start point while he holds the toggle switch in the "on" position. I would appreciate thoughts on what parts of the ignition system may be at fault.
Thanks in advance for your help and insights.
MDC