Jeep dana 30 i want the best

[1994Rangerxlt]

ok im workin on saving money for a jeep dana 30 swap. ive been readin about switchin to diffrent knuckles for bigger breaks. and gettin axle shafts out of a certain year for bigger u joints. and diffrent knuckles for high steer... the question is is there one axle in a certian jeep that has all these componets already on it . if so were do i look. or can someone just give me a list of what exactly i need to make the dana 30 the strongest... and what carrier do i need to use a 3.73 ring and pinion??

also pic of how you have a dana 30 mounted in ur ranger would be greatly apricated also

 

[yyc_tbird_sc]

If you're looking for the strongest, then I wouldn't bother with the D30....go right to the D60. What sized tire are you planning on running, and what are you planning to do with the truck?

I personally have decided to go with a D44 high pinion out of a '79 Bronco. It's been cut down to the EB width, and is being stuffed with an E-Locker and 4340 CrMo shafts. Not going to bother with Hi-Steer yet, but I will be doing the steering over knuckle to keep it up out of the way for now....

 

[1994Rangerxlt]

running 33s.or 35s. is my dd. and weekend warrior. i dont beat it or anything but i dont baby it. i just wanted rid of the dana 35 and wanted a dana 30. cuase its just as strong asa dana 35 .. didnt want dana 44 dont want to buy new wheels lol

 

[rockwerks]

running 33s.or 35s. is my dd. and weekend warrior. i dont beat it or anything but i dont baby it. i just wanted rid of the dana 35 and wanted a dana 30. cuase its just as strong asa dana 35 .. didnt want dana 44 dont want to buy new wheels lol

By changing from the 35 to a 30 you are actually down grading in strength.

I would look for a scout dana 44 or early bronco dana 44

To build a dana 30 to the same strength as a 44 will cost you a lot more in the long run and then still have a weaker housing..........This is a long time jeep wheeler speaking here.

 

[1994Rangerxlt]

i dont play that much i never crawl. i just play in mud or snow. and i dont even do that much. just one in a while. so i with me just doing this would a dana 30 hold up or im not really sure on thsi SAS stuff

 

[joshnlsn]

The d30 would be a downgrade.If it is your DD and weekend wheeler why do you want to get rid of the D35?Just curious

 

[dangerranger83]

I would just go and do a D44 swap, it would be easier to do and hold up to what you want it to do plus your not downgrading yourself. This is coming from a guy that will be doing a D30 swap soon, I'm getting rid of my D28 TTB. I'm only putting a D30 under because I got my D30 for free and it will cost me more to fix my D28 then it will take to put the D30 under my truck.

 

[Explorin94]

I just did the 30 under my 88. http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71355
It had the 28 under it and I had the 30 laying around from another job I did. I have had this truck with axle under it out to a local offroad park and it performed very well. It has a Power Trax locker in it and the truck is pretty much unstoppable with a locker front and rear. You guys can bash this axle all you want but it has held up to my abuse and punishment. I have under a $1000 in this build along with the price of the truck. So untill I destroy the axle I will run it, and then when it breaks I will upgrade to a 44, maybe?

 

[rockwerks]

i dont play that much i never crawl. i just play in mud or snow. and i dont even do that much. just one in a while. so i with me just doing this would a dana 30 hold up or im not really sure on thsi SAS stuff

Mudding is harder on hardware than crawling.. IF you are going to do the swap the upgrade dont downgrade.

To build up a dana 30 you will need alloy shafts, upgraded Ujoints etc. you are looking at 1000.00 or so in parts to make it as strong as a 44 and still the ring gear is much smaller and weaker

 

[Toreadorranger]

Mudding is harder on hardware than crawling.. IF you are going to do the swap the upgrade dont downgrade.

You have that backwards.

 

[rockwerks]

You have that backwards.

Ive done bunch many times. mudding is a big parts killer.

I have crawled many of the hardest trails in the West and mudded a bunch around AZ and seldom break parts crawling but almost always broke stuff mudding.

Mudding puts strain on housings and binds up parts that are supposed to spin freely.

Ive wheeled Axle Alley, Predator, Sledgehammer, Jackhammer, outer limits, and many others.

 

[1badexplorer]

You have that backwards.

X2

mud is alot easier on parts than the rocks.

 

[88_Eddie]

the D30 sounds like it might be fine for you. my buddy ran 35's, 4.56's, and a locker on the D30 in his CJ. he upgraded the axle shafts of course, but he never broke anything. he did hardcore mud and ALOT of crawlin plus he had a torquey 258 i6 turning it. u ought to find one for free and then fix it up, as others have said it'll be $$$$$$$$$$

BUT, why not save ur money and just keep the D35?

 

[rockwerks]

X2

mud is alot easier on parts than the rocks.

I guess its your experience I can control throttle and directionality while crawling, mudding is driving with the skinny pedal which is exact opposite of crawling. Ill take the rock anyday.................Im allergic to mud

 

[2.3splash]

I have done a Dana 30 which I just recently replaced with a built D44. I removed a D28 to install a 30 which I had for cheap with the right gears etc. You likely won't find junk yard gears for a 30 that will match your 3.73 gears in the rear. So now you need to buy a new set of 3.73 gears, which are wrong for 35"s anyhow, and you need to buy new brakes and upgraded axles and coil springs and make or buy custom control arms, or leaf springs and mounts. And before you know it you have well over $2000 in a dif that is only better than your current dif in one way, it is a straight axle, which is an argueable point. Stick with the 35 or go 44, the only reason to install a D30 is because you got a good complete one with the right gears on a really good deal and your a good fabricator. Otherwise it makes no sense cost wise.