Leak in clutch hydraulics- where?

[reginald fairfield]

Hey fellas, I don't know if any of you have had this same problem, but I am going to throw this out there in the hope that someone may have a suggestion. So, here goes...

I drive a 1999 ford ranger 4x4 with the 3.0 liter and an electric 1354. I have been having to add fluid to the clutch master cylinder about every week or two, because it is getting completely drained. I have examined all the lines and the master cylinder, and can find no clue of a leak. Also, there is no fluid or sign of it near the bell housing. I have my suspicion of what is leaking, but I want to know everyone's unbiased opinion first. I am goanna fix it myself no matter what, so I need to know what parts I need.

Any help will be appreciated.

 

[mjonesjr]

slave cylinder is leaking......better get it replaced before it walks you...

while you are in there, replace the clutch..

 

[reginald fairfield]

Yeah, you just confirmed my theory bro. Damn internal slave. Yeah, I am going to replace the whole clutch while I'm in there. What do you mean by it will start walking on me though?

 

[mjonesjr]

once the slave completely goes, it will blow hydraulic fluid all over your clutch rendering it uselss......and you wont have a slave cylinder which means no shifting (well properly shifting)...

 

[reginald fairfield]

Ohh... That's goanna suck...

 

[reginald fairfield]

I also need to know what other parts I need.
So far, this is it:
1. Replacement Clutch Kit
2. Slave Cylinder
3. RTV to seal between transfer case and trans, extension housing.

Are there any parts that I am forgetting? Does the slave cylinder have any gaskets that need to be replaced? Anything else? Any recommendations?

 

[MAKG]

It's POSSIBLE, though not very likely, that the master is still at fault. Look at the pushrod for signs of leakage. It can be quite hard to see there.

 

[wanebell]

Reginald;

Make sure that you have plenty of brake fluid and transmission fluid on hand. You'll need the brake fluid when you bleed the air out of your clutch hydraulics and the transmission will leak fluid all over the floor when you pull the drive shaft.

 

[reginald fairfield]

Thanks guys. i'll pick up some mercon. I already checked the master cyl., no sign of leak. I will check again though.

 

[MAKG]

... and the transmission will leak fluid all over the floor when you pull the drive shaft.

Not on a 4WD.

Besides, it's a good idea to drain the transmission first when pulling it. You don't HAVE to on a Mazda (it has a rear seal, even with the transfer case off), but it makes it lighter and you might as well anyway....

 

[greaseyfingers]

Hey fellas, I don't know if any of you have had this same problem, but I am going to throw this out there in the hope that someone may have a suggestion. So, here goes...

I drive a 1999 ford ranger 4x4 with the 3.0 liter and an electric 1354. I have been having to add fluid to the clutch master cylinder about every week or two, because it is getting completely drained. I have examined all the lines and the master cylinder, and can find no clue of a leak. Also, there is no fluid or sign of it near the bell housing. I have my suspicion of what is leaking, but I want to know everyone's unbiased opinion first. I am goanna fix it myself no matter what, so I need to know what parts I need.

Any help will be appreciated.

your brake fluid is, probably, leaking past your rubber cup that's in the bore of your clutch slave cylinder, cause the rubber cup is loosing it's expansion flexibility against the slave cylinders bore, to contain the brake fluid..

if you read on a can of pb blaster, it renews rubber.. if you want to solve your slave cyliner leaking brake fluid problem..

squirt a couple of shots, of pb blaster, through the red plastic straw, into your slave cylinder brake fluid reservoir and top of with brake fluid and you should solve your leaking brake fluid problem, unless your clutch slave cylinder's bore is badly rusted, or pitted, on the inside..

if I were you, I'd give it a try, as you don't have anything to loose, and everything to gain, as 9 out of 10 times, this will solve a leaking brake fluid problem..

 

[reginald fairfield]

if you read on a can of pb blaster, it renews rubber.. if you want to solve your slave cyliner leaking brake fluid problem..

squirt a couple of shots, of pb blaster, through the red plastic straw, into your slave cylinder brake fluid reservoir and top of with brake fluid and you should solve your leaking brake fluid problem, unless your clutch slave cylinder's bore is badly rusted, or pitted, on the inside..

But what is pb blaster? Oh- one more thing- I have been noticing that the leak seems to be off and on, wherever it is. Sometimes it the system empty's itself, sometimes it won't. I don't know if this adds to your theory...

 

[greaseyfingers]

But what is pb blaster? Oh- one more thing- I have been noticing that the leak seems to be off and on, wherever it is. Sometimes it the system empty's itself, sometimes it won't. I don't know if this adds to your theory...

your leaking brake fluid problem will tend to leak out brake fluid faster, the colder the temperature is... because the rubber is contracting more from the cold and the lips on the rubber cup, contacting the slave cylinder bore, are less flexible... so, therefore, brake fluid will leak past the lips on the rubber cup, causing your brake fluid leakage...

pb blaster is available at wal-mart, in the automotive section, and at most automotive parts stores, besides being sold at hardware stores...

pb blaster rejuvenates rubber, to like new, again...

 

[northerncountry]

I just completed replacing the slave cylinder clutch, pressure plate and piliot bearing. All come in the Zoom kit on buy all parts included. However the slave still didnt work has me scratching my head I call the local auto shop and they were telling me that the system has to be reverse pressureised from the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. thats not what the repair manual says but I have replaced everthing including the master cylinder and resavor so up to the shop it goes we shall see what happends.

 

[reginald fairfield]

I just completed replacing the slave cylinder clutch, pressure plate and piliot bearing. All come in the Zoom kit on buy all parts included. However the slave still didnt work has me scratching my head I call the local auto shop and they were telling me that the system has to be reverse pressureised from the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. thats not what the repair manual says but I have replaced everthing including the master cylinder and resavor so up to the shop it goes we shall see what happends.

That is bull. I was thinking about it the other day, and I figured that you must have to bleed the fluid to get rid of bubbles. Are you supposed to do this before you put the transmission back on or can it be done once everything is back together?