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Hydraulic clutch line leak just got a lot worse


BoogieBot

Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2013
Messages
12
City
Flagstaff, AZ
Vehicle Year
2000
Transmission
Manual
Hey all, I've had my 2000 Ranger (2.5L, 2WD, M5OD trans) since March and have had a slow hydraulic clutch leak the whole time that just got a LOT worse today.

Here's the history of what's been going on and what went wrong today:

* Clutch master reservoir fluid level has been dropping slowly since I bought the truck (back in March). I usually just top it off with DOT3 every few days and keep driving.

* The fluid level only seems to drop when I'm doing city driving - that is, shifting a lot. I recently drove a 2000 mile roadtrip and checked the clutch reservoir twice a day - not ONCE did it need topping off during all that highway-only driving. I did notice that after about 70 miles of city driving, it was halfway empty.

* I've let the truck sit without being driven for as long as 2 weeks and have not experienced a drop in clutch fluid. No puddle under the truck, no drop in reservoir level, nada.

* The clutch pedal has been squeaky when depressed and has a bit more travel than other cars (clutch would start to disengage when pedal was a little over halfway to the floor)

* There appears to be some kind of fluid leaking from where the trans bellhousing meets the engine.

* Today, I was about 1 mile from home when I pushed the clutch pedal all the way to the floor without any resistance - the clutch did NOT disengage whatsoever and I could not shift gears. I put it in neutral, pulled over, checked the fluid reservoir: empty. I topped it off with DOT3 and pumped up the clutch. After that, the clutch will disengage only when the pedal is 7/8 of the way to the floor - it travels freely and without resistance the rest of the way. The pedal does spring back to the up position on its own and does not rest on the floor/just above the floor when my foot is not on it.

*I can still shift gears if I am VERY careful to match revs. Have not tried going into reverse yet, but when stopped and with the engine off and clutch depressed all the way, it is VERY difficult to shift into reverse (simply won't go into R at all 4 out of 5 times, the 5th time it slips in no problem. Usually easier to get into R when I'm in 1, 2, 3, or 4, but it does NOT want to go from 5 to R at all)


Everything I've read so far would appear to indicate either a shot clutch master or clutch slave. I am REALLY hoping it isn't the slave because droppin the trans ain't gonna be cheap. :(

I'm gonna try to bleed the hydraulic line with my 1-man bleed kit today because the reservoir was BONE dry when I refilled it today and will report back whether that helps the problem at all.

tl;dr hydraulic clutch leaks during city driving (lots of shifting). leak has been getting faster. Not sure if clutch master, slave, or something else
 
Hey all, I've had my 2000 Ranger (2.5L, 2WD, M5OD trans) since March and have had a slow hydraulic clutch leak the whole time...
I think your luck has run out on this one...will need to get it fixed if you wish to continue driving it. The Slave cylinder is liking done although you may find a problem with the hyd line connection if you're truly blessed.


I am REALLY hoping it isn't the slave because droppin the trans ain't gonna be cheap. :(
If you drop it yourself...won't be that bad($$). Find a buddy and get after it. There are other items that should be addressed along with the Slave cylinder (as long as you're in there anyway). You may wish to consider refreshing the clutch, pilot bearing, etc...depending on the mileage and how long you plan to keep the truck. Some folks prefer to do the master and slave together along with the line between them.


In summary, you've likely got a Slave cylinder to change out at the minimum but give it a good visual inspection and try to determine if the hyd line may be the culprit for some reason. I would not recommend you continue to milk this out with continual refill and bleeding to prolong the trucks usefulness.

Consider your options in regards to what other work could/should be done at the same time since the transmission will be down. You don't want to go up and down with that transmission multiple times if you don't need to - do what you need to do once and put it behind you.


.
 
Ah nuts. I'd hoped it wasn't the notorious dying slave. I guess at 170,000 miles that's to be expected... and probably also means it's time to refresh the M5OD's guts anyway. The rest of the truck is in excellent condition for its age and mileage, so IMO it's worth fixing.

If you drop it yourself...won't be that bad($$). Find a buddy and get after it.

Alas, if I had a buddy and equipment, I would! I just moved to AZ about 2 weeks ago and have not yet befriended any like-minded individuals. I guess I'll be hitting up the mechanics tomorrow for price quotes. :\

Thanks for the advice, ya'll.
 
+1 Helped a friend do a Mazda recently. Not that bad. Also there are youtube videos on anypart of it you are not sure of.
 
Lol well yeah, but for real I don't have an assistant. Can it be done by just one person?
 
chaos

Lol well yeah, but for real I don't have an assistant. Can it be done by just one person?

There would be a couple of critical tasks where a second hand might be nice....can be done by an individual however depending on his/her abilities.

What a great way to get to know a neighbor..."Hey buddy, do ya mind having my transmission on your chest?" HaHa. LOL.

You probably have enough chaos in your life right now with moving etc....might be better to farm the work out. The extra dough spent might be worth it!

Good luck either way you decide and as you said...truck should be worthwhile investment for this repair. Take care of it!
 
Lol well yeah, but for real I don't have an assistant. Can it be done by just one person?

yes. just replaced the clutch/slave/throwout/pilot in my 2005 2.3 a few weeks ago using only 2 jackstands in the front, 2 ramps under the rear, and a floor jack.
I'm 60, and don't like working under vehicles anymore, but I did get it done.

FYI, some new mastercylinders/lines come pre-filled with fluid,bleeding was real easy.


Perry
 
My personal preference on this job would be to replace the master, line, and slave as a set and do the clutch while you are there. If you are stuck working alone I would try my best to get a pre-filled set since then you just put it in, connect the line, pump the pedal a few times, and go.

If you can't find a pre-bled set the easiest way to bleed the clutch is with all the hydraulics out of the car. Hang the slave from something so it is at the top, hook the master up to it, and stick the rubber tube in a container of brake fluid, then pump the rod.
 
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