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Aussie, Lockrite, or Detroit for Ranger DD?


My Detroit has been good as far as reliability, though it clunks a lot when you shift gears due to the large amount of backlash built into it. If you can afford it, a selectable locker (ARB, etc.) is a lot nicer if you have a stickshift. With an auto, the slop in a Detroit will be less noticeable.
 
I've shied away from the trutrac because of stories about no torque biasing when you need it most. I think my problem is that I don't really understand how it works, whereas a lunchbox locker is very easy to understand.

And of course I'm a bit cheap as the Aussie still lists for nearly $200 less than the trutrac. But the $200 savings will seem meaningless with a locker that makes my little pickup unpleasant to drive to pick up some milk.

Have you had a chance to play around with yours? Try to get yourself stuck in the mud, burnouts, etc?

Well I'm not a hard core wheeler though I do get to do some rock crawling but haven't yet with this truck. I also try to stay away from deep mud, probably would try it if with another truck around.

That being said and I just got a set of Goodyear Duratrac install, I find the Detroit behaving like it should. I was out today and found a bit of snow and never once did I feel traction slip. If I remember correctly according with the instructions, it only requires something like 100 ft/lb for the slipping wheel to lock in. I only lock in 4 wheel drive today just to make sure everything was working, 4-hi, 4-lo.

Before the with the stock tires it was easy to spin so I think with the right combination of tires and locker makes a big difference.

Eventually I want to add a locker in the front and looking at the Aussie or Spartan.

I bought my Detroit through Pirate 4X4, a fella named Waynehartwig I believe it was, very good deals and good guy to do business with.
 
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I know the Detroit is stronger, but I think any of the lockers are more than strong enough for this application. Is the detroit smoother or somehow more well-mannered on the street?

behind a 5 speed youll notice a little locker action like junkie said, but when it was in my auto explorer i couldnt even tell it was there, at first i though the guy lied so i took a peek inside just to make sure it was there

and its barely noticeable in the truck

its strong will last forever and smooth

as for the true-trac its not a locker
 
Guys, are we talking apples to apples here? I.e. do you both have manual transmissions? Are the lockers installed in short wheelbase rigs?

I have an auto transmission with the longer wheel base (extended cab short bed). Can't complain about it, I hardly ever notice its there...even on sharp/tight turns. When I give it gas its locked. Wheel chirp is far and few between.

I have also heard that behind a manual transmission, the No-Slip acts more similar to a Lock-Rite, with more clunking and noises when the clutch is let out.

I'm not sure what Hanhns is referring to as "the inside tire being allowed to spin" as all the inside tire is doing when throttle is applied, is rotating 1-5 degrees at the most to catch up to the rotation of the other tire, resulting in the tire chirp as the tread deforms and scrubs against the pavement. The tire isn't "spinning"...its merely speeding up and engaging with the opposite tire so that they then are both rotating the same (no differentiation, 100% lock-up) for a brief moment while everything is brought up to the same rotation between the left and right tires. Not really a problem in my mind? Maybe I don't notice it because of my autocraptic tranny...

Both the Detroit automatic locker and Detroit Tru-Trac are very strong and are far stronger than a stock carrier with a lunch-box type locker. If someone were to do major offroading, a full carrier locker or limited slip would be the best bet for durability, and if that same person is at that stage with their offroad rig, some road manners can be sacrificed with little hesitation as trails are the primary concern.
 
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Both the Detroit automatic locker and Detroit Tru-Trac are very strong...

I've blown both up in my D44, and with superwinch hubs and stock 260 jointed 33 year old shafts for the truetrac. I'll give the detroit credit to chromoly, warn hubs and catching some air.

The fact that I've been told blatantly by anyone thats sells truetracs, that I can't get parts for one steered me away from ever advising anyone to get one.

My .02 ...

1. Detroit
2. Any other full case LOCKER (repack a traclok if you want a limited slip)
3.Aussie
4. All the other junk.....
 
What size tire were you running in both situations Wahlstrom?
 
The proof is in the video. The inside tire is spinning and the locker wasn't locked. Like I've said before I've driven the No-Slip in my Dakota and a friend's ranger (who now has the Detroit and likes it much more than the No-Slip), exactly the same behavior in both, I'll never buy another one, period. I never said the No-slip hasn't given me 100% lockup, it locks, no doubt about that, but the amount it lets the inside tire spin before it locks is unacceptable, and makes it intolerable to drive. I can hardly tell my Aussie is there.

Let me get this straight... you're complaining that the No-slip actually differentiates in corners like "automatic" lockers are suppose to do? How does that make it intolerable to drive? If anything I would think it would be nicer for street purposes. Does it bang and make you change lanes when it finally locks or something?
 
Let me get this straight... you're complaining that the No-slip actually differentiates in corners like "automatic" lockers are suppose to do? How does that make it intolerable to drive? If anything I would think it would be nicer for street purposes. Does it bang and make you change lanes when it finally locks or something?

Exactly what I'd like to know....sounds like it is operating exactly like it should. :dunno:
 
I have an auto transmission
There's the difference right there :icon_thumby:


I'm not sure what Hanhns is referring to as "the inside tire being allowed to spin" as all the inside tire is doing when throttle is applied, is rotating 1-5 degrees at the most to catch up to the rotation of the other tire, resulting in the tire chirp as the tread deforms and scrubs against the pavement. The tire isn't "spinning"...its merely speeding up and engaging with the opposite tire so that they then are both rotating the same (no differentiation, 100% lock-up) for a brief moment while everything is brought up to the same rotation between the left and right tires. Not really a problem in my mind? Maybe I don't notice it because of my autocraptic tranny
No, it isn't just catching up and locking (I wish it would), the inside actually spins without the locker locking (the chirping you hear in the video is the inside tire spinning, the locker isn't locked) and it takes more throttle (usually more than I want to use in a turn) to make it lock. Same behavior in mine and my buddies, maybe both of our are defective :dunno: My experience with the Lock-Right and Aussie is that the inside tire will only spin until it catches up, then it locks and that's how it should be IMO. I will give the No-Slip credit for being completely silent but my Lock-Right and Aussie aren't loud enough to be heard inside the vehicle so it's really a moot point.
Let me get this straight... you're complaining that the No-slip actually differentiates in corners like "automatic" lockers are suppose to do? How does that make it intolerable to drive? If anything I would think it would be nicer for street purposes. Does it bang and make you change lanes when it finally locks or something?
Explained above.
 
What size tire were you running in both situations Wahlstrom?

:sad:...... 37's...... :thefinger:

Broke the truetrac with the wide and heavy Toyo's

Broke the Detroit on the skinny light MTR K's

R1.jpg
 
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There's the difference right there :icon_thumby:



No, it isn't just catching up and locking (I wish it would), the inside actually spins without the locker locking (the chirping you hear in the video is the inside tire spinning, the locker isn't locked) and it takes more throttle (usually more than I want to use in a turn) to make it lock. Same behavior in mine and my buddies, maybe both of our are defective :dunno: My experience with the Lock-Right and Aussie is that the inside tire will only spin until it catches up, then it locks and that's how it should be IMO. I will give the No-Slip credit for being completely silent but my Lock-Right and Aussie aren't loud enough to be heard inside the vehicle so it's really a moot point.

Explained above.

Hmmm sounds like a defective unit, it should ACT just like a Lock-Rite or Aussie, and what you describe doesn't seem normal. Mine only rotates momentarily like previously explained before engaging. Usually not enough to even deform the tread enough (an thus chirp a tire).

After initial installation, the manual calls for a test to be sure that the locker was installed correctly and is going to function properly. If I were you I'd find your manual or download a new one, and go through the tests outlined in the manual (requires putting the rear axle on jack stands) while someone holds one wheel stationary and the other wheel is given a sharp jolt, after which it should rotate freely. This is then repeated by switching sides with your accomplice. Details are outlined in the manual. Then give Powertrax a call cuz what you are describing is not a properly functioning unit.

Does it engage harsh? With a clunk and a bang that isn't even remotely smooth?

:sad:...... 37's...... :thefinger:

NICE!
 
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:sad:...... 37's...... :thefinger:
Did the shaft(s) let go too? I hear it's not uncommon for a Detroit to break if a shaft breaks, supposedly the new Yukon Grizzly locker doesn't grenade itself if you bust a shaft.
Hmmm sounds like a defective unit, it should ACT just like a Lock-Rite or Aussie, and what you describe doesn't seem normal. Mine only rotates momentarily like previously explained before engaging. Usually not enough to even deform the tread enough (an thus chirp a tire).

After initial installation, the manual calls for a test to be sure that the locker was installed correctly and is going to function properly. If I were you I'd find your manual or download a new one, and go through the tests outlined in the manual (requires putting the rear axle on jack stands) while someone holds one wheel stationary and the other wheel is given a sharp jolt, after which it should rotate freely. This is then repeated by switching sides with your accomplice. Details are outlined in the manual. Then give Powertrax a call cuz what you are describing is not a properly functioning unit.

Does it engage harsh? With a clunk and a bang that isn't even remotely smooth?
Yeah I did the function test, the gap between the 2 drivers was also within spec. On and off the throttle there isn't much backlash (about the same as the Aussie and less than the Lock-Right), making it lock in a corner is harsh only because the inside tire is spinning when it locks.
 
Did the shaft(s) let go too? I hear it's not uncommon for a Detroit to break if a shaft breaks, supposedly the new Yukon Grizzly locker doesn't grenade itself if you bust a shaft.


Knock on wood, haven't broke a solid axle shaft/joint yet! Did pop a used supercrap though, replaced it but not both with warns.... when the second one let loose on landing the detroit let go as well, did in the disengaging clutch and a side gear.

Brokedetroit.jpg
 
I've searched and searched, and I've not found a comprehensive, objective review of any of the lockers. Too bad really, because I think the marketing of lockers is really hurt by lack of information.

I found one really good writeup on the Aussie by a fellow who put one in the rear of his Toyota 4Runner. He did the best job of giving real world driving impressions.

I have found lots of information on the Truetrac (and Torsen) mainly because of its use in racing applications.
 
Knock on wood, haven't broke a solid axle shaft/joint yet! Did pop a used supercrap though, replaced it but not both with warns.... when the second one let loose on landing the detroit let go as well, did in the disengaging clutch and a side gear.

Brokedetroit.jpg

A broken hub is actually more likely to do in a Detroit than a broken shaft since the whole shaft is still intact.

What happens is the shaft twists every time torque is put on it. If something breaks (especially out near the hub), it unwinds itself which then releases all that energy straight into the locker mechanism, causing the dog-teeth to shear off and shattering of parts. I've heard lunchbox lockers are a little more immune to this although I have no personal experience.
 

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