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Wheel Bearing EXPLODED


Tighten the inner nut and the inner nut ONLY to 35ft/lb and rotate the rotor several revolutions

Then back the nut off and retighten to 35INCH/lbs

Install the perforated washer and thread on the outer nut.

the OUTER nut get tightened as tight as you can make it
225-250ft/lb IS entirely reasonable.

That OUTER nut isn't tightening the bearing
it's only squeezing the washer agaisnt the inner nut and LOCKING
the two nuts and the washer together.

+1 That is exactly what I did. Remember guys. I have the manual hubs on this truck. The inner bearing is going to get the same torque as the outer does, up against the first locking ring/washer. ( per Warn install ) Thanks for the info guys!!
 
I know you have manual hubs, when I went on Alldata I specified manual hubs and that's the info it gave me.
For auto hubs:Loosen adjusting nut, then torque nut to 35 ft lb while rotating hub and rotor assembly.
Back off adjusting nut 1/4 turn, then torque nut to 16 inch lbs.
For manual hubs:Loosen inner wheel bearing locknut using a suitable spanner wrench, then torque locknut to 35 ft lb .
Loosen inner locknut 1/4 turn, retighten to 16 inch lbs ., then install lockwasher on spindle. If necessary, rotate locknut slightly to align pin with closest hole in lockwasher.
 
Tighten the inner nut and the inner nut ONLY to 35ft/lb and rotate the rotor several revolutions

Then back the nut off and retighten to 35INCH/lbs

Install the perforated washer and thread on the outer nut.

the OUTER nut get tightened as tight as you can make it
225-250ft/lb IS entirely reasonable.

That OUTER nut isn't tightening the bearing
it's only squeezing the washer agaisnt the inner nut and LOCKING
the two nuts and the washer together.

The inner nut is the "adjustment" nut
the outer nut is a "jam" nut

My "big" torque wrench is 36" long and 3/4 drive and
225ft/lb isn't even half scale on it

But oddly the scale is marked in inch pounds

it's strange to torque something to 7200in/lbs:)



AD

+1 Allen That is exactly what I did. Remember guys. This truck has the warn manual hubs on it. The inner bearing is held on by applying torque to the outer bearing to keep the rotor on. Warn manual hubs have two locking rings with a locking washer. The first ring gets 35 ft/lbs..nudge it off a smidge, then the lock washer yadda yadda yadda like Allen posted. Thanks for the advice guys! It's back together and running!
 
there is NO WAY to tighten the INNER bearing. It is held on by the nut holding the outer bearing.

Set up goes like: Inner bearing - rotor - outer bearing - seal around bearing - nut - washer - nut - washers - c clip.
 
You guys are getting caught up in semantics. You're tightening the inner 'bearing locknut' to 16 (or 35?) in-lb's after the initial 35ft-lb rotation sequence, then the outer 'bearing locknut' to 200+ ft-lb's.

Focus on inner 'bearing locknut' rather than 'inner bearing' locknut. Hopefully that clarifies the confusion here.
 
Loosen inner wheel bearing locknut using a suitable spanner wrench, then torque locknut to 35 ft lb .
Loosen inner locknut 1/4 turn, retighten to 16 inch lbs ., then install lockwasher on spindle. If necessary, rotate locknut slightly to align pin with closest hole in lockwasher
I wasn't talking about the pre-load, I know that's 35 Ft-lbs, I was talking about it's final torque after it's been pre-loaded.

BTW I use about 200 Ft-lbs on the outer nut and have never had a problem.
 
I've preloaded them to 16in/lb and found them loose after things setled together entirely too many times to preload them to only 16in/lb.

I typed 35in/lb but what I REALLY ment to type was 25in/lb.

that' where mine are set on my d35 and it's been together
for a long, long time....with no issues.

a bit too much preload is far less abusive to the bearing that
even a slightest bit too litle... ask any engineer at Timken.



AD
 
You guys rock. I've never seen so many people with in/lb torque wrenches.

I only have a ft/lb torque wrench.

I tighten the inner up to 35 ft/lb, back it off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and then snug it back up. I tighten the outer nut as tight as I can get it and then spin the rotor just to make sure there isn't to much drag on it.
 
Realistically, that's about the only way I've ever done it either. Set the preload, back off on the inner till it's just lightly snug by hand, then crank the outer as hard as I can.
 
the only time i used a borrowed in/lbs wrench to do my bearings they caught fire in wellsville. go figure

never had problems doing it by hand
 
I not only own inch/lb torque wrenches I actually have an in/OUNCE torque wrench.

I have torque screwdrivers that take 1/4" hex bits (but use a collet clamp
instead of a magnet to retain the bit)

My smallest in/lb torque wrench is a bend beam that is calibrated down to 2 (TWO)
in/lbs and vcalibrated up to 50in/lb in steps of 2in/lb
this is the one I use to measure pinion bearing preload when setting up a diff.

All told I probably have more than a dozen torque measuring devices.
But mostly only use two or three of them often.


AD
 
You guys rock. I've never seen so many people with in/lb torque wrenches.

I only have a ft/lb torque wrench.
I agree! I usually convert the in/lb to ft/lb when the manual calls for in/lb.


I tighten the inner up to 35 ft/lb, back it off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and then snug it back up. I tighten the outer nut as tight as I can get it and then spin the rotor just to make sure there isn't to much drag on it.
This is the way I set mine up. I have had my inner nut be lose with 25 ft/lb on it.
 

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