Goodbye 2.3 4 cylinder...

[jnmcinnis]

Lookin good man can't wait to see the finished product.

 

[doorgunner]

OutStanding

 

[Black P-38]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the enthusiasm!

I looked over the install instructions for my front swaybar today, they are basic and straight forward plus the diagram is correct. The nice thing is it requires NO drilling, (YAY!), as the bushing brackets and end link brackets use factory holes.

The front bushing bracket holes utilize the rearmost mounting bolts/nuts for the factory crossmember, (the one that dips down to protect the steering linkage), so I wire brushed the threads and shot them with PB Blaster to get them loosened up ahead of time.

I bet I can install the complete front swaybar kit in less than an hour. I'll get some pics up of the install by this weekend.

Next project should be installing the new custom aluminum fuel cell and the high pressure EFI pump and lines.

Stay tuned...
Mike

 

[Black P-38]

Soooo this morning before work I removed the two factory bolts from the rear mounting points on the crossmember to prepare for installing the front swaybar.

After work I figured I'd "slap" the thing on in no time before dinner...
First off, the factory bolts are supposed to be reused to attach the front of the bushing brackets, simple enough except that the slots were too narrow to accept them.

I had to take a large rat tail file to the slots and basically "keyhole" them to clear the factory bolts. Of course there's one bracket per side plus each bracket has a backing plate about an eighth inch thick.

The slots in the backing plates were also too narrow so in total I had to keyhole two brackets and two backing plates, aggravating and took a little time/effort but no big deal.

I mounted the bar with little difficulty but when it came time to attach the end link angle brackets to the I-beams I discovered the "bolts provided" did not match the factory threads... oh boy, so much for a quick project before dinner.

I went ahead and assembled both end links to the swaybar and I-beam brackets to make sure there were no other issues. All is well, now I just need to hit the hardware store for the correct bolts and I'll be done.

Even with the extra BS I had everything done but installing the two bolts in about an hour so I can't complain. The bar and hardware are nice pieces and beautifully finished and most importantly will be a major improvement in handling.

I still need to drill the four holes in the frame rail and install the bolts/nuts to complete the rear swaybar install. I'll get some pics of the front swaybar posted soon.

Later,
Mike

 

[doorgunner]

Glad it finally worked out--rat-tail & all. I've learned to estimate times on mod's pretty closely. For example: if the instruction sheet says 2 hours......Double it! Works just about every time

 

[Black P-38]

Thanks, and you're right... double what it says, or what you think it will take and PRAY you get it done THAT fast!!!

I took another look at the threaded holes in the I-beams and after some PB Blaster and a little manual thread chasing with various pick tools I determined in fact the "bolts provided" ARE correct, (12mm x 1.75 pitch).

I fought my way through one side and got the bolt in and torqued but decided when I'm in town today I'll buy a metric tap to make life easier. I did a cursory cleaning on the other side and soaked it in PB Blaster so tonight after work I should be done.

Mike

 

[Black P-38]

I bought a good quality 12mm 1.75 tap today for $4, worked like a charm. Guess I should consider buying a metric tap and die set... anyway, the front bar install is complete.

I'm hoping to get the holes drilled in the frame for the rear bar bushing brackets so I can get the bolts installed this weekend but looks like I have to work. If I have time I'll get that done and post a few pics.

Mike

 

[doorgunner]

If you've got a lotta threads to clean up, buy some tapping fluid or tapping oil--it keeps the tap from wearing out & prevents it from breaking so easily (as a last resort--mix 3 oz.'s of motor oil with 1 oz. of MEK or any other similar fluid)

 

[Black P-38]

I always keep a can of Tap Magic around, works for threading all types of metals. I do lots of fabricating that requires drilling/tapping and wouldn't be without it. Now that I'm working on the Ranger project I'll be needing a Metric tap and die set.

Funny thing is, the Range Rover engine is based on the original Buick 215 and STILL uses SAE threads and fasteners. Worked out well for me since I started my project with the Buick and was able to reuse all the new grade 8 and stainless bolts I had bought. So... I have a metric chassis with SAE powerplant... yay...

Mike

 

[Black P-38]

Well the weather has been crappy for a couple weeks now, I hate not having a garage, especially with all the rain and wind. I have a "carport" shelter thing but the rain runs through on the ground like a small flood. I did manage to finally drill the holes in the frame for the rear swaybar bushing brackets and finish the installation.

When I deleted the brake booster in favor of manual brakes I had to remove a master cylinder firewall plate from another Ranger so I could re-mount the master on the firewall without the booster. The brake pedal lever for power brakes is different in the location of the stud from the fulcrum since less leverage is required.

The problem with converting to a manual setup is that the master mounts higher and requires the stud for the brake rod to be closer to the fulcrum for increased leverage as well as proper angle approaching the master cylinder piston.

Removing the brake pedal lever is no picnic on manual trans models since you have to extract the clutch pedal lever. If you've ever done this you know what I mean.

The clutch pedal lever has a long shaft welded to it that slides through the support and brake lever pivot and is kept in place by a circlip on the right side of the support.

In order to gain enough room to the left of the support to clear the length of the long shaft I had to move the main harness out of the way which meant unbolting the round multipin firewall connector from under the hood and separating the halves.

The inner half is held in the firewall by 3 pressure clips and once released allowed enough slack to pull the harness out of my way. When I thought I was almost there I realized the E-brake foot pedal mechanism was keeping the shaft from coming out the last 3/4" or so... aaaaarrrrgggghhhh!!!!

I wasn't about to give up at that point so I unbolted the
E-brake assembly, removed the cable and pulled the assembly out of my way. Success at last!!! But what a freakin' pain... did I mention there's no way to get into a comfortable positon under there???

I decided instead of replacing the brake pedal lever with a manual unit, (which would mean pulling the one out of my other Ranger... no thank you!!!), I would modify my existing unit and re-install it.

I got the measurements from my other Ranger, drilled a hole in the correct location on the lever and tapped it for a 1/2-13 shouldered bolt. I ran the bolt in from the same side as the factory stud 'til the shank bottomed in the threads and torqued the crap out of it, then I threaded a nylock nut on from the other side and torqued it down.

I cut the bolt head off at the appropriate length, ground it flat and chamfered the edge. Next I cut off the excess threads from the nut side and ground it smooth.

I had to make a brass bushing to step the new stud diameter up to 9/16, prefit the brake rod with black bushing, white nylon washers and brakelight switch to get the location of the hole to drill for the springpin retainer. I removed the pieces, drilled the hole and reassembled everything, it worked great.

I got the brake and clutch pedals back together along with the firewall connector, cut the part of the E-brake bracket that doubles as the drivers side dashboard mount, re-installed that piece and the lower dash access panel and called it a day.

So I finally have brakes again except for the E-brake which I am replacing with a Rover floor mounted hand brake. So much for those simple little mods that "wont take long"...

Mike

 

[mixwell]

BUMP..


No updates in about a month, how is it coming along?

 

[Black P-38]

Wow, can't believe a month has come and gone... Not much to report, been taking care of the honeydo list and working on the house... I did manage to install the Range Rover floor mount E-brake but haven't sorted out the cable yet. I WILL get some pics of that and a few things from my previous post when I get the chance but the honeydo list is rather large so there won't be much progress on the Ranger for awhile...

Ask me how I feel about that...

 

[a-5 freak]

well, how do you feel about that?

 

[Black P-38]

well, how do you feel about that?

Not very dam happy!!!
I did manage to clearance the passenger side frame rail for the header.

I also got tired of looking for the replacement brake and clutch pedal pads for my '91 so I cut the steel down to Gen I width and installed a pair of early pads which are very common and less than $5 each... SO THERE!!!

Bought a new late model Genuine Ford black rear bumper to replace my "slightly" twisted aftermarket POS too. That's all I have to report for now.

Mike

 

[Black P-38]

Finally pulled the stock Ranger steering wheel and installed the Grant GT wheel I've had sitting around for months... I need to get some pics when it stops raining, whenever THAT is... I'm SO sick of the rain!!!

Mike