Distributor option

[franklin2]

I need you guys to help me out and look at this Tech Article I posted and see if I need to add or correct anything. Right now, I feel like it's torn between being its own article and being a supplement to the Duraspark Conversion article. I feel like I need to add more information about remove the unused wiring, computer, and EGR.

Powerspark Ignition Conversion - The Ranger Station

The Powerspark Ignition Conversion is the latest way to replace the TFI ignition on your 2.8L powered Ford Ranger / Bronco II

www.therangerstation.com

Removing the old computer wiring and computer is not really necessary for things to function and run correctly after the conversion. It would be more of aesthetics type thing, "cleaning up" the mess under the hood.

So I am thinking if you wanted to include it, make sure it is at the tail end of the article, making sure the engine runs correctly before tearing stuff out. And also not to clutter up the article and make it too much to read. In other words, breaking the whole operation down in two parts, the conversion and then the clean-up with the clean-up being optional.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I noticed 2 spots that may need clarification.
The first is "them". Which them specifically? The distributor or the kit?

And the second is the "was as". Is it supposed to be "way as"?

 

[ISX_15]

Where did we end up on this? I keep trying to circle back to it because I want to add it to the Tech Library.

My understanding is that the Powerspark distributor works in the 2.8 and has a built-in ignition module. If true, then it would seem to me that you could replace the Duraspark conversion by using a Powerspark distributor, a coil, and a 2BBL carb. I've been waiting for someone to actually do this, share some photos, and confirm it.

@CaptLongshot @AzLizard @ISX_15

Im waiting on the non feedback 2bbl carb, powerspark ignition coil, and a new ignition switch since mine is broken. Once done ill rip out the mess of wires and try to capture photos of the process.
Truck has been sitting for a minute so everything is getting a complete overhaul. Its just going to be a competition audio truck/ daily driveable so all i care about is the engine running good and no leaks, so it can power a 300A internally regulated alternator, which ill do a seperate thread on installing that.

 

[franklin2]

Im waiting on the non feedback 2bbl carb, powerspark ignition coil, and a new ignition switch since mine is broken. Once done ill rip out the mess of wires and try to capture photos of the process.
Truck has been sitting for a minute so everything is getting a complete overhaul. Its just going to be a competition audio truck/ daily driveable so all i care about is the engine running good and no leaks, so it can power a 300A internally regulated alternator, which ill do a seperate thread on installing that.

I would imagine that alternator is going to require at least 2 v-belts to run it. People have a hard time running a 130amp 3G with just one v-belt. Notice the factory always used a serpentine belt with most 130amp 3g setups. May need a manual throttle cable also to idle the engine up a little bit.

 

[ISX_15]

I would imagine that alternator is going to require at least 2 v-belts to run it. People have a hard time running a 130amp 3G with just one v-belt. Notice the factory always used a serpentine belt with most 130amp 3g setups. May need a manual throttle cable also to idle the engine up a little bit.

Agreed, ill worry about that later. I finally ripped out ecm and wiring harness, i cut length to most of the wires just in case. Does anyone know color codes for the oil pressure sensor and coolant temp? I wanna make sure that still works. There was 2 plugs next to the ecm plug that went to relays of some sort, no idea what for. The climate controls i think were on their own circuit and harness? Either way i can always rewire and fix what doesnt work.

 

[ISX_15]

I would imagine that alternator is going to require at least 2 v-belts to run it. People have a hard time running a 130amp 3G with just one v-belt. Notice the factory always used a serpentine belt with most 130amp 3g setups. May need a manual throttle cable also to idle the engine up a little bit.

please verify this is correct, if possible whats the other color codes for or do i worry about for temperature/ pressure sensor to keep cluster working?

what are the other posts for besides the 12v constant one? will be swapping alternators later on that will remove this mess of wires also. i only need 12v ignition and constant lmao.

is this bright green/blck wire for ECM data for engine temperature ? or is it actually the temp sending unit? only things im confused about.

 

[RobbieD]

Does anyone know color codes for the oil pressure sensor and coolant temp?

Mine was Red/Wht coolant temp and Wht/Red oil pressure.

Here's what I have from my conversion years ago, but note that this is an '84; maybe your '85 has the same C102, and the pin-out and wire colors are the same or close enough.

 

[ISX_15]

Mine was Red/Wht coolant temp and Wht/Red oil pressure.

Here's what I have from my conversion years ago, but note that this is an '84; maybe your '85 has the same C102, and the pin-out and wire colors are the same or close enough.

View attachment 140894

Looks the same will use for reference thanks!

 

[ISX_15]

Is this even factory ? Do i need to worry about the harness thats goes to a relay next to the ecm connector? Whats it for? Theres two.

 

[RobbieD]

Your big pic is factory connectors. What they are escapes me at the moment, but I think off the top of my head that it's for the ECM power relay. No more ECM, you won't need an ECM relay anymore.

In your small attached pictures, I strongly suspect that your truck had aftermarket air conditioning installed. That's definitely aftermarket connectors around the HVAC control head, crimp-on spades stuffed into the OEM blower connector, and the AC switch looks added. That aftermarket controller behind the glovebox / kick panel looks to have an "ARA" logo on it, which jives perfectly with aftermarket air.


As deep as your diving in that truck's electrics, grabbing an EVTM off eBay would pay for itself. Luck, or patience, will usually get one shipped to your door for $20~30.

 

[ISX_15]

Your big pic is factory connectors. What they are escapes me at the moment, but I think off the top of my head that it's for the ECM power relay. No more ECM, you won't need an ECM relay anymore.

In your small attached pictures, I strongly suspect that your truck had aftermarket air conditioning installed. That's definitely aftermarket connectors around the HVAC control head, crimp-on spades stuffed into the OEM blower connector, and the AC switch looks added. That aftermarket controller behind the glovebox / kick panel looks to have an "ARA" logo on it, which jives perfectly with aftermarket air.


As deep as your diving in that truck's electrics, grabbing an EVTM off eBay would pay for itself. Luck, or patience, will usually get one shipped to your door for $20~30.

Okay thanks! Ill keep that relay and use it for accessory power later on (equipment, fans, leds etc)
Yeah i realise my ac isnt factory, seeing the wiring slop. been tough finding the correct ac compressor since its missing but after searching around it looks to be a sanden sd709 type. I should have this project in the bag, not too difficult so far. I pretty much got all the info i needed now.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Removing the old computer wiring and computer is not really necessary for things to function and run correctly after the conversion. It would be more of aesthetics type thing, "cleaning up" the mess under the hood.

So I am thinking if you wanted to include it, make sure it is at the tail end of the article, making sure the engine runs correctly before tearing stuff out. And also not to clutter up the article and make it too much to read. In other words, breaking the whole operation down in two parts, the conversion and then the clean-up with the clean-up being optional.

I once thought as you did.

It drove me nuts.

I had this brainy idea 20 years ago when I did my Duraspark swap I would reuse the factory Ecoil for more powerful sparkles. It worked great. I didn't know what all did what so I left the ECM in it. All was right with the world.

Then I V8 swapped it. It was killing a DS module or coil every couple months. I tore into and noticed there was still a tach wire buried in there talking the ECM. That was the only thing still going to it. Ah ha! There is my problem so I ripped the ECM out to fix my issue.

Then I could smoke a module in about an hour.

It took several deep dives into the interwebs to determine that the ecoil had much less resistance than the regular DS cannister coil and modules are sensitive to that. The fewer heartbeats of the 2.8 + drain of reporting tach signal to the ECM kept things in line. Going to more heartbeats with the V8 pushed things closer to the edge and was way out of whack when I removed the computer.

So yeah, I am in the scorched earth camp now.

And yeah, I used the wrong coil blah blah blah... but had I used the correct coil it would have still been screwing with me. It may have been ok with the 2.8 but then I wasn't driving it near as much as I did with the V8 either.

Agreed, ill worry about that later. I finally ripped out ecm and wiring harness, i cut length to most of the wires just in case. Does anyone know color codes for the oil pressure sensor and coolant temp? I wanna make sure that still works.

On mine those have nothing to do with the ECM and came out of the dash harness on the DS.