1999 4x4 Full front end suspension replacement recommendations

[Doct0rCalamari]

Hello, this is my first post. I am looking for some general recommendations and advice on a full front end suspension replacement.

A little background: I have a new-to-me 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0 V6 with about 130k miles. The truck is still entirely stock and I am slowly working through replacing what has been worn out over 26 years of use by the previous owner. I intend to use this car for light offroading and as a daily driver. I do not intend to put a lift on it. I will be towing, but nothing extremely heavy. I am 25 years old and this is my first project car that I am trying to use as a learning experience to become more proficient at working on cars.

My next step in updates is the suspension. The ball joints are really bad and need to go, but I'm motivated to just replace everything while I'm down there. Here are the parts I am currently looking at:

• Front end kit option #1: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12747037&cc=1446380&pt=15413&jsn=667
• Front end kit option #2: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12746749&cc=1446380&pt=15413&jsn=664
• Bilstein B6 4600s (all 4 shocks)
• I am also interested in replacing CV Axles+Joints

Here are my questions for this project so far:

1. All the front end kits on RockAuto that include a complete lower control arm are listed as RWD. The ones with no RWD tag just have the lower ball joint only. Is there any reason for this? Can I just replace the entire lower control arm assembly entirely, or is something different about the 4x4 model? Do 4x4 lower control arms need to be purchases separately for these kits?

2. I also want to replace my CV Axles+Joints entirely. RockAuto sells a few different brands of what looks like the entire assembly. Does anyone have experience with any of these brands? Is there a consensus on what is good and what to avoid? Again, I plan to use this for some moderate offroading so I would like to invest in something of decent quality.

3. Am I missing any crucial components or overlooking anything?

4. Are there any tutorials/videos that you would recommend for this year model?

5. Are there any other general words of wisdom that you would advise? Am I missing any crucial components?

Thanks

 

[Uncle Gump]

I'll just say... pick your parts wisely. There is so much junk out there these days.

I wouldn't replace the half shafts unless they're bad. Those factory shafts are better used then some of the replacement stuff on the market.

Your at the mileage where the front unit bearings (wheel hub/bearings) need a good inspection. Don't cheap out on replacements...

 

[Blmpkn]

Never fix what isn't already broke.

Edit** ok.. in SOME SELECT CIRCUMSTANCES it's advisable to fix what isn't broke.. but replacing axles like youre thinking about doing isn't one of those circumstances.

Gump is 101% right about picking the right parts too.

We're sadly in an age where NEW doesn't necessarily mean GOOD. It's gotten to the point where you can't even trust parts from historically quality replacement part suppliers like moog or dorman.. EVERYTHING is a crapshoot nowadays.

If you need to replace something, buy Motorcraft.

If you find that the part # that needs replacing has been made obsolete by Lord Henry.. figure out who actually made the part for ford and buy it from them.. for example.. the factory oxygen sensors in my truck were made for ford by NTK.. the spark plugs by autolite.. it usually doesn't take much googling to find out who to buy from if you run into something that's been discontinued.

 

[Doct0rCalamari]

Never fix what isn't already broke.

Edit** ok.. in SOME SELECT CIRCUMSTANCES it's advisable to fix what isn't broke.. but replacing axles like youre thinking about doing isn't one of those circumstances.

Gump is 101% right about picking the right parts too.

We're sadly in an age where NEW doesn't necessarily mean GOOD. It's gotten to the point where you can't even trust parts from historically quality replacement part suppliers like moog or dorman.. EVERYTHING is a crapshoot nowadays.

If you need to replace something, buy Motorcraft.

If you find that the part # that needs replacing has been made obsolete by Lord Henry.. figure out who actually made the part for ford and buy it from them.. for example.. the factory oxygen sensors in my truck were made for ford by NTK.. the spark plugs by autolite.. it usually doesn't take much googling to find out who to buy from if you run into something that's been discontinued.

Thanks, I appreciate your response. The CV axles aren't making any noise so they're probably okay for now. Is there anything I can do to extend their life/clean/service them? Is rebooting them a good idea?

 

[JoshT]

Hello, this is my first post. I am looking for some general recommendations and advice on a full front end suspension replacement.

A little background: I have a new-to-me 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4x4 3.0 V6 with about 130k miles. The truck is still entirely stock and I am slowly working through replacing what has been worn out over 26 years of use by the previous owner. I intend to use this car for light offroading and as a daily driver. I do not intend to put a lift on it. I will be towing, but nothing extremely heavy. I am 25 years old and this is my first project car that I am trying to use as a learning experience to become more proficient at working on cars.

My next step in updates is the suspension. The ball joints are really bad and need to go, but I'm motivated to just replace everything while I'm down there. Here are the parts I am currently looking at:

• Front end kit option #1: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12747037&cc=1446380&pt=15413&jsn=667
• Front end kit option #2: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12746749&cc=1446380&pt=15413&jsn=664
• Bilstein B6 4600s (all 4 shocks)
• I am also interested in replacing CV Axles+Joints

Here are my questions for this project so far:

1. All the front end kits on RockAuto that include a complete lower control arm are listed as RWD. The ones with no RWD tag just have the lower ball joint only. Is there any reason for this? Can I just replace the entire lower control arm assembly entirely, or is something different about the 4x4 model? Do 4x4 lower control arms need to be purchases separately for these kits?
View attachment 127665

2. I also want to replace my CV Axles+Joints entirely. RockAuto sells a few different brands of what looks like the entire assembly. Does anyone have experience with any of these brands? Is there a consensus on what is good and what to avoid? Again, I plan to use this for some moderate offroading so I would like to invest in something of decent quality.
View attachment 127666

3. Am I missing any crucial components or overlooking anything?

4. Are there any tutorials/videos that you would recommend for this year model?

5. Are there any other general words of wisdom that you would advise? Am I missing any crucial components?

Thanks

My 2 cents.

I have no experience with mevotech, but allegedly their TTX parts are a step above their supreme line. I've heard that the style boots that the TTX have hold up better than the traditional accordion boots like on the supreme, andtorn boots is a major killer of these parts, by letting water in and washing grease out.

Bilsteins are good.

I'd worry less about getting a kit, and more about selecting what seem to be the best quality parts. Whether that mean in kit from all from one manufacturer, or individual parts from several.

Your questions:

1) The difference between RWD kits and 4wd kits is largely due to the difference in suspension styles. Due to the torsion bar passing through the lower control arm on a 4wd, there is a fair bit more work to change those arms. Most people opt to just replace the joint instead of the entire arm, so the kits only include the joint. If you want to replace the entire arm to get new bushings, order individual components instead off the kit and get complete arms.

2) Don't replace CV axles. My 99 made it to around 210k on stock CVs and they were still fine. I replaced them because I was converting to live axle (01+ style) to go with the V8 AWD swap. Because the 98-00 had part time front axle (hubs that disengaged) the cv shafts did not turn unless the truck was in 4wd. They have a lot less miles of wear and tear than the rest of the truck or suspension components. Leave the originals there until they become a problem.

3) As mentioned, check out your unit bearings. Also check out the hoses the vacuum hoses that go to the knuckles and replace if deteriorated. Assuming that they haven't been repalced your front locking hubs operate on vacuum, if there is a leak they won't engage. Also wouldn't hurt to jack up the truck and test 4wd to ensure that they are engaging, better to find out now than when you need it.

4) Lots of good information in the tech library.

5) Drive it and enjoy. Don't borrow trouble. Don't fix what isn't broken, fix it as it breaks.

We're sadly in an age where NEW doesn't necessarily mean GOOD. It's gotten to the point where you can't even trust parts from historically quality replacement part suppliers like moog or dorman.. EVERYTHING is a crapshoot nowadays.

If you need to replace something, buy Motorcraft.

If you find that the part # that needs replacing has been made obsolete by Lord Henry.. figure out who actually made the part for ford and buy it from them.. for example.. the factory oxygen sensors in my truck were made for ford by NTK.. the spark plugs by autolite.. it usually doesn't take much googling to find out who to buy from if you run into something that's been discontinued.

I'll depart from Blmpkn on the Motorcraft. It's been long enough that Motorcraft is no longer making replacement parts for these in house, they contract almost all of it out to the lowest bidder. When you buy parts with that label on it, 8/10 times you're paying extra for the label. The parts inside are from the same assembly line as the other brands, and dropped in a Motorcraft box.

I also wouldn't count on finding the original parts supplier unless you can find the markings on the original part. The internet makes a lot of claims that aren't true. Part numbers get carried over between different brands to make parts appear the same. Even if you do find the original manufacturer of the part, there's nothing saying that they are still making it in house. 20+ years later, they are probably crontracting out production and rebranding as well.

Selecting auto parts is about like shopping for anything else. Just search around for reviews on the brand & line of parts you are considering. Understand that it is primarily negative reviews that get posted online. People are quick to bitch about something not working, but not nearly as good about saying when it does. Understand that half or more of the complaints about it not working are likely user error.

 

[Doct0rCalamari]

My 2 cents.

I have no experience with mevotech, but allegedly their TTX parts are a step above their supreme line. I've heard that the style boots that the TTX have hold up better than the traditional accordion boots like on the supreme, andtorn boots is a major killer of these parts, by letting water in and washing grease out.

Bilsteins are good.

I'd worry less about getting a kit, and more about selecting what seem to be the best quality parts. Whether that mean in kit from all from one manufacturer, or individual parts from several.

Your questions:

1) The difference between RWD kits and 4wd kits is largely due to the difference in suspension styles. Due to the torsion bar passing through the lower control arm on a 4wd, there is a fair bit more work to change those arms. Most people opt to just replace the joint instead of the entire arm, so the kits only include the joint. If you want to replace the entire arm to get new bushings, order individual components instead off the kit and get complete arms.

2) Don't replace CV axles. My 99 made it to around 210k on stock CVs and they were still fine. I replaced them because I was converting to live axle (01+ style) to go with the V8 AWD swap. Because the 98-00 had part time front axle (hubs that disengaged) the cv shafts did not turn unless the truck was in 4wd. They have a lot less miles of wear and tear than the rest of the truck or suspension components. Leave the originals there until they become a problem.

3) As mentioned, check out your unit bearings. Also check out the hoses the vacuum hoses that go to the knuckles and replace if deteriorated. Assuming that they haven't been repalced your front locking hubs operate on vacuum, if there is a leak they won't engage. Also wouldn't hurt to jack up the truck and test 4wd to ensure that they are engaging, better to find out now than when you need it.

4) Lots of good information in the tech library.

5) Drive it and enjoy. Don't borrow trouble. Don't fix what isn't broken, fix it as it breaks.



I'll depart from Blmpkn on the Motorcraft. It's been long enough that Motorcraft is no longer making replacement parts for these in house, they contract almost all of it out to the lowest bidder. When you buy parts with that label on it, 8/10 times you're paying extra for the label. The parts inside are from the same assembly line as the other brands, and dropped in a Motorcraft box.

I also wouldn't count on finding the original parts supplier unless you can find the markings on the original part. The internet makes a lot of claims that aren't true. Part numbers get carried over between different brands to make parts appear the same. Even if you do find the original manufacturer of the part, there's nothing saying that they are still making it in house. 20+ years later, they are probably crontracting out production and rebranding as well.

Selecting auto parts is about like shopping for anything else. Just search around for reviews on the brand & line of parts you are considering. Understand that it is primarily negative reviews that get posted online. People are quick to bitch about something not working, but not nearly as good about saying when it does. Understand that half or more of the complaints about it not working are likely user error.

I really appreciate you taking the time to answer all my questions, this was a very thoughtful reply.