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truck broke down today


Hey T-Pain is the type of bobby pin that the end of it looks like a t in case you did not know what a t pin was.
us old guys that built balsa wood planes back in the 60s still have T pins, but can't remember where 'da hell we stashed 'em.
 
under the cab, left side by the rocker is connector C312. it's the last connector before the fuel pump. also has all rear lights.
pin 5, PK/BK is power going to the pump.
pin 16, BK is the common ground for all the lights & pump. if the rear lights work the ground is probably good.
 
Got the bed bolts off without breaking them. But man they dont look great.

Will get the neighbour over tomorrow to help tilt up the bed and see what I can see.

Thanks everyone for helping.
 
Just been perusing rockauto for what a replacement pump might be if needed. Is there any difference from the pumps for a 111.5"/117.5"/127.5" ?

Do they really have 3 diff pumps for a difference of 10" of length?

The price difference is ~2x from the cheapest 111.5" to 127.5" ($74 vs $135).
 

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Just been perusing rockauto for what a replacement pump might be if needed. Is there any difference from the pumps for a 111.5"/117.5"/127.5" ?

Do they really have 3 diff pumps for a difference of 10" of length?

The price difference is ~2x from the cheapest 111.5" to 127.5" ($74 vs $135).

This is just a guess but maybe the connector length is difference for each wheel base?

As far as pumps go, it has been found that motorcraft pumps is the way to go for the best chance of long term reliability. The aftermarket brands tend to last a couple of years and die.
 
Everyone likes to point to it and it's easy to check. but rarely the problem. They don't normally just "go bad".

Mine tripped in a crash and still works. IDK why it wouldn't reset for a couple days though.
 
@dashhho your welcome for what little help I was. I'm sure I was not much of a help
 
Before buying a new fuel pump assembly there's some tests you should do to verify that the fuel pump assembly you have is bad or is not bad.

Now if it was me I would test the connector that plugs onto the fuel pump assembly to make sure it has ground for the fuel pump and for the sender unit as well.
Then I would also test it to make sure it has power for the fuel pump and a signal for the sender unit as well.

To test for the signal for the sender unit you'll need to put your multimeter on ohms.
That is the setting that has the little symbol that looks like a set of headphones, in case you didn't know that.

Do you have an EVTM for your truck.

EVTM stands for
Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual
, if you didn't know.

If you don't have one if they made one for your truck's year you can most likely find 1 on eBay.

I asked if you have an EVTM for your truck because inside of the EVTM you can find what OHMs reading your fuel pump assembly sender unit should be sending out.
It will also give you some kind of idea on what reading the connector reading for the sender unit should be without being plugged up to the fuel pump assembly.

After testing the connector I would also test the actual prongs of the plug for the fuel pump assembly as well.
You can also hot wire it and see if it works to verify that it's not a wiring connection that is the problem.

There may be other tests some of the other members might suggest you do as well.
 
Thanks Doug. I am not sure what is going on. But when I tested for power at the pump plug with a test light, it did not light up. When I put the multimeter on it, it gave me around 10V. So?? I tested my test light and it works..

I will do some more testing. I have the 'wiring diagram' book. I'll see if the ohms info is in there.
 
@dashhho Are you sure you had your test light on a good ground spot?

If you have a EVTM for your truck the OHMs are in there.
 
@dashhho Are you sure you had your test light on a good ground spot?

If you have a EVTM for your truck the OHMs are in there.
If the fuel level is reading ok,I wouldn't worry about the sender. No reason to worry about it's resistance (ohms) if all we have is a pump problem.

Making sure you have a good ground connection, however, is critical to measuring voltage to the pump and for the pump to work properly.
 
So do I need the ohms when testing between yellow and B/W?

I have 10V at P/B

B and B/W seem to be grounded.
 

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So I get 10V at Yellow. and around 6V at Pink.
Does the difference matter here?
 

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