Terrys 88 Bronco2 Restore

[Terrys87]

I found my loose cable. The factory goes from battery to frame to block. They just cut the connector off. It was still attached to block.

1/2 inch bolt. Yea for 80’s trucks. Metric and standard. I think this cable is wore out.

 

[Terrys87]

Thanks sgtsandman they will probably be coming off. The automatic transmission is not best for towing and this is going to just light towing if any. I guessing they cause a harsher ride as well. I want smooth as possible. Thanks. I just never seen this style.

 

[Terrys87]

This truck is fighting me every step of the way. This morning it fired up to check if the brakes was the hold up. Now it just clicks. Weak battery and wonder if these great cables could be the issue. lol

 

[RobbieD]

I will post details on my builds and try to be of help so if someone needs info on how to fix things they can refer to my threads on what is involved. Some things just are not on YouTube or a manual. I still need to figure out how to get around the site.

That's what it's all about, and that's what makes this site a goldmine for the demented souls that love these old trucks.

The tech articles and digging deep into old threads using "Search" on the site can uncover just about anything about them.

In my advanced state of decay, the most valuable thing about a post like yours, is that it gives me inspiration to get off my lazy ass and actually do something to my trucks.

@Terrys87 , when you want to be sure somebody sees your post, tag them in your text with " @ " or direct reply to their post. That gives them a notification.

And, what in the hell is this that's in the circle?

Unless I've accidentally smoked something that I've forgotten about, it sure looks like a screw has been run into the bat cable as a master hack power tap.

 

[Terrys87]

Thanks RobbieD. I will look into tagging. I have tried the quote thing still not figured it out. I’m an old geezer and some if this technology is getting harder for me to under and kids aren’t here to help.

That is a master hack but not a bad one. It is a screw plugging off the vacuum line to the air box. Luckily that will be an easy fix.

 

[Terrys87]

Took a wire brush to some grounds off of cable to battery.

7mm ground. Still not starting.

While waiting for battery to charge thought I would clean another ground from plenum to wiper motor. Yea!! Wiper motor ground just spins but I cleansers ground on plenum. 8 mm

Checked battery voltage. Brought battery out if Ranger to jump start. Cleaned contacts on starter relay, and jumped terminals to starter on relay and still no start. It will crank slowly for a second or just clicks. I think my starter went on strike. I have a used one. Going to Orielly to have them test an old starter. I will have a mom and pop rebuild my current starter if it is bad. Off to test starter and if good I will swap starters. On a good note truck will roll in shop so hoping I got the biding issue fixed. Once I get it starting again I can see if it will move with no difficulty.

 

[RobbieD]

Damn; I need to get these glasses fixed.

I’m an old geezer and some if this technology is getting harder for me to under and kids aren’t here to help.

You're in good company. I gave up on adapting to new technologies back in '80s.

 

[Terrys87]

Your picture had me thinking I missed something until I looked at it in truck. I’m glad you pointed it out. I have to wear glasses as well and then still I have difficulty seeing things. I’m trying to learn to use the site and help where I can.

 

[Terrys87]

Had starter tested at Orielly it passed. It is one from another motor I had on the shelf. I got a cable to help with some of the problem. I will get a cable from starter relay to starter at a later time. Cables are shot and some of my problem.

 

[JoshT]

Wow!!! This truck has tilt. Did not know this was an option.

Wow! That looks like a factory leather wrapped steering wheel. I did not know that was an option in a first gen. I knew about the tilt wheel and the 85 has it, but now I've got another factory option to hunt down in the right color.

Remove blower resistor and get more debris. Mine is in great shape but get these out if bone yard when possible. Not even sure they are available from part store.

Those resistors were used on almost all ford trucks, vans, and suvs in the 80s and 90s. Even up to 2010s on the E-series vans. They wont be going obsolete any time soon.

I was researching electric window motors and seen you posted in 2007. You have been around for quite some time. Congrats.

As you're browsing you'll find that many of us old timers (or long timers?) have 2007 join and post dates. Not too many older than that. The forum went through a major reset then due to some hosting issues (there's an article onit somewhere) and we basically had to start over with the membership rosters. Fortunately Jim was able to save a lot of old information and data from the former versions.

Thanks sgtsandman they will probably be coming off. The automatic transmission is not best for towing and this is going to just light towing if any. I guessing they cause a harsher ride as well. I want smooth as possible. Thanks. I just never seen this style.

I may be wrong, but those style of helper springs shouldn't be doing much of anything without a load on it. Unless your main (factory) springs are old and sagging the helpers shouldn;t be affecting the ride much if any. Old sagging leafs are probably why they were installed, that's why a lot off trucks have gotten add-a-leafs over the years.

Had starter tested at Orielly it passed. It is one from another motor I had on the shelf. I got a cable to help with some of the problem. I will get a cable from starter relay to starter at a later time. Cables are shot and some of my problem.

Battery cables can make a HUGE difference in starting, charging, and electrical gremlins in general. The cables that were on my 68 F-100 weren't much different condition when I got it. Replacing them made a heck of an improvement. Installing a updated 3G alternator and a high torque mini starter were both major improvements. When/if you have to replace those with new, I'd suggest looking into it. The alternator can be done on nearly any older Ford, not sure if the HTMS is available for the 2.9L. Found a company on ebay that offered one for the FE in the F-100 that seemed to be a good balance of reputation and price. It has worked great so far, but it's been many years and I don't remember the manufacturer.


Love the BII and this one appears to be a nice unit. Look forward to seeing the results when you get it cleaned up.

Dad had one back in the 90s/00s and I'd have bought it if I knew he was planning to sell. Unfortunately owning one isn't in the cards for me any more. Trucks fit my life better, it's difficult to find a nice example for the right price around here, and I've already got too many projects. Speak of which, I need to get off by butt and see if I can go salvage yard some parts for a few of them. Only a few hours left before they close today, and they aren't open long enough after work during the week.

 

[Terrys87]

Hello @JoshT I did not know it was a factory wrapped steering wheel was an option. This truck is really loaded down with options I really dont think I have seen on even Eddie Bauer trucks. Thanks for the info on the blower resistors and did not know they used them as long as they did. On my Ranger build I have links to several things I find. Some by accident. Forums have a ton of information you just cant get from Youtube and other sources. Sometimes finding it can be tricky but it is in there.

I have the factory ground cable coming from partsgeek. I too feel that good cables can make a huge difference. I kind of jumped the gun on this project. Just wanted to get it to where I can move it in and out of the shop as I really should finish the Ranger before starting on this one. Funding two at once can take a toll on the budget. Once I get it driveway movable I will get back on the Ranger and back to this one. Bronco is throwing me a few loops.

Salvages dont get many around here and when they do they dont keep them long. Wife is actually wanting this Bronco. My trucks will have an easy life so if it is not sagging, the helpers will come off. I might later even get new springs. This will be a nice truck when I get done with it, mostly stock. I have some learning to do as it has a few things I have not worked on in the pass such as the touch button 4x4.

 

[Terrys87]

This is the starter that come off of the Bronco. I took it and it tested good. I for giggles went a head and got a new starter relay. This is 4 post. Bronco has 3 post. Ranger has 4 post. As I understand it, 3 or 4 post is interchangeable. ??? Still acting like a weak battery. Both starters are testing good. I’m thinking battery is bad or the cables just finally gave it up. Battery is at Orielly getting tested.

While waiting on battery I started cleaning drivers side of engine. A little Dawn dish soap and air hose in radiator over flow and it turned out descent in the following picture.

Engine bay cleaned up descent. You can tell by previous starter picture, this thing has leaks. I really feel new valve cover gaskets will fix several leaks.

I tried to turn camera upside down. Don’t think I have Limited Slip. I knew I had the 7.5 axle and now I know I have 3.73 gearing. I will decipher the other information later on.

 

[Terrys87]

Well battery tested bad. It is a refurb so no surprise. It did have a fresh charge on it and truck fired right up. I did try to drive it backwards and it still seems like it is bound up. Most of the padding had fallen off of the brakes and the tires turn freely when in the air. When I rolled it forward, it seemed to drive forward ok. I kind of wondering if transmission or transfer case is an issue or still the rear brakes are causing it to be so difficult. Front wheels turn nicely. I will have to wait until next week to get a complete rear brake kit and I always have a difficult time doing rear brakes. Luckily I have a friend who can do them blindfolded. Something I cant beleive I can not get done on my own. Not like I have not tried in the past. Goal was to get truck movable and I guess it some what is for now if I have to. I work grave yard shift and have to start winding it down and getting ready for tonight. I gave it my best this weekend and not completely disappointed. Got some small things accomplished and truck is in a little better shape then when I got it.

Still have a lot of basic parts to replace. All Fluids, belts, hoses and some sensors. A little at a time.

 

[RobbieD]

Funny; that's how I got a Bronco II. It was the wife's truck.


Is the old bad ground cable that's present, does it go to both the frame and the engine block?

A photo you showed earlier of an old ground cable, that was still bolted to the block. When that replacement was made, whoever did it may have cut corners and used a single, shorter universal grounding cable and just ran it to the frame. That means the starter would be grounding through the smaller braided ground strap to the body, and also through the driveline. That would work for the most part, until the ground path degraded and then it won't work. And it would be harder on the starter.

The correct replacement cable that you want will have a large eyelet about midway, that goes to the frame, and then end in a large ring terminal which bolts to the block. And it will also have a separate smaller wire which bolts to the fender to ground the body.

 

[Terrys87]

Some one in the past did a bang up job on it. They just cut the old cable and left it to the block. The current cable they used is way shorter and it does go to the frame but and then routed to the alternator bracket. It is not good by any means. I am hoping my correct cable will be here some time this week. I ordered a day or two ago. While replacing the starter, I seen a couple of small wires disconnected. I would not be surprised if it has to do with the transfer case shifter. I got a few wire issues I am going to have to chase out.