What did you do to your Ranger today? (Part Deux!)

[Snoranger]

Today I finally got to use 1 of my upfitter switches.

I installed a set of rock lights. I had a spare kit sitting around that was supposed to go on one of SxSs, but never installed. They’re RGB lights with an app on my phone to control the colors. (I only took pics with it set to blue.)

Here’s a pic of the relay box location for the upfitter switches, in case anyone is interested.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

My gut feeling is those would be pretty equivalent. I rolled my racetruck with 1.75" and no discernible damage. Wasn't going very fast tho. Your main hoop is providing most of the protection, side bars are less likely to get hit.

Good to know that it will hold up and that’s a pretty valid point.

I'm guessing that what you've found is something like this:

Steel bolt on tube clamps 1.625" 1-5/8 inch universal roll cage mounts

Universal Fabrication 1-5/8" Tube Clamps to compliment all of your builds. 2-1/2" in overall length. Building a roll cage on any vehicle with 1-5/8" tubing- here's the clamps to add any bolt on feature for your project . We sell these to UTV /SXS /Jeep and many other off-road fabrication shops...

utvdistribution.com

Yup, that’s what I can find that will work without modifications.

and what you want is something like this:

Interlocking Steel Tube Connectors Rollcage 1-3/4" x.120 &.095

Universal Fabrication Interlocking Steel Bungs Building a rollcage on any vehicle with 1-3/4" .095 or .120 wall tubing- heres the bungs to get that project going. We sell these to UTV /SXS /Jeep and many other off-road fabrication shops. Great all around fabrication tube connector. Features...

utvdistribution.com

I am in no way suggesting or advising these parts, just what I found in a quick google search for examples.

If I'm correct, I understand your preference, it would be mine too.

Correct again. I have after a lot of searching found these from one source for 1-5/8”/1.625”, but only in 0.095 and 0.120 wall, which my tube is 0.134 wall so neither work without modifications.

I don't know how or where you use the choptop, but I feel like it's probably not likely to be involved in high speed collisions/accidents where you intend to use it. A low speed rollover is probably more likely. If so I think the clamp welded to the cage is probably going to be more than adequate. I'd weld the half to the top bar, the other half to the bottom bar, then do a plug weld or two through each half into its respective bar.

If you can find connectors like the lower link where the ends are solid, I think it would be fairly easy to get them turned down for the thicker wall on you tube. In fact if you find a place that makes these parts in house, it might be worth giving them a call and seeing if they can turnsome down to fit for you.

So the choptop was built as a road legal mild-moderate trail capable rig. My answer to some trails not being accessible if you had to tow your rig there. It’s also been pressed into Daily Driver use several times and is a fun thing to drive around because it gets attention. Since it’s not really built for the street, it takes some care and respect to drive on the road. There’s always the chance of some other driver screwing up though. I like the thought of welding the connectors half and half if I go with the sleeve type, did think of that.

I was kinda hoping someone on here could either tell me where to find what I need or be able to turn some down for me. I’ll have to check local again too. Last time I visited this idea I couldn’t find an answer.

Makes sense. I was thinking about a first gen dash with it's removable metal top plate, not a molded second gen dash. Most likely if I were doing something with a cage I wouldn't be using the stock parking brake pedal anyway. It'd probably be converted to use a handbrake lever between the seats and/or use a line lock for parking brake. Of course I'm not talking about a trail/offroad rig either.

I have no comment on the relative strength of the tubes. That said there isn;t much size difference between 1.5 and 1.625 inch tube. Is it possible that a 1.5" coupling would have the right diameter to work in your thick wall 1.625 tube? The outside diameter of the coupling would be slightly smaller, but its a solid machined piece so I think it would be plenty strong enough.

Yeah, moving the parking brake pedal has been considered and I’m really not opposed to the idea, just have to figure it out.

I worked the math out for a 1.5” 0.120 wall and it’s about a 1.26” ID. The 1.625 X 0.134 wall is 1.357” ID. So still doesn’t work out.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

A 10 thou shim? Dimple the circumference?
One of those and a bunch of plug welds would do me ok.

 

[ben_2_go]

I tried to diagnose an AC problem. Compressor is constantly cycling on and off. I checked the pressures and they are within range, but I get no cooling. I'm thinking it may be the high side transducer/high pressure swtich or possibly a blocked orifice. How could the orifice be blocked if the system has never been open? It was recharged once several years back and was fine.

 

[racsan]

I worked on the chicken house some, tossed some of the 16’ 2x4’s from the trailer in the garage into the ranger then backed it up to my work site. Got 1 wall almost completely framed before it decided to start raining again. Its just as well, in 3 hours the back of my shirt was completely soaked and I feel very drained. Put my tools and hardware up and hit the shower. I really cant handle the humidity like I used to. Small steps I guess.

 

[pjtoledo]

the weather is the same in Toledo, only 80 but humid.

was stripping some more clear coat off a wheel.
the silver sparkle Ford put in the holes is damn good, the "meth" stuff doesn't do much to it while the regular clear bubbles in only 3 minutes.

 

[Roert42]

Load the truck up with tools, have to repair a rotted out door frame and install a new door when I go to visit the in-laws for the 4th. Then drove it down to pick up the keg for the 4th of July party.

 

[Rick W]

Good to know that it will hold up and that’s a pretty valid point.



Yup, that’s what I can find that will work without modifications.



Correct again. I have after a lot of searching found these from one source for 1-5/8”/1.625”, but only in 0.095 and 0.120 wall, which my tube is 0.134 wall so neither work without modifications.



So the choptop was built as a road legal mild-moderate trail capable rig. My answer to some trails not being accessible if you had to tow your rig there. It’s also been pressed into Daily Driver use several times and is a fun thing to drive around because it gets attention. Since it’s not really built for the street, it takes some care and respect to drive on the road. There’s always the chance of some other driver screwing up though. I like the thought of welding the connectors half and half if I go with the sleeve type, did think of that.

I was kinda hoping someone on here could either tell me where to find what I need or be able to turn some down for me. I’ll have to check local again too. Last time I visited this idea I couldn’t find an answer.



Yeah, moving the parking brake pedal has been considered and I’m really not opposed to the idea, just have to figure it out.

I worked the math out for a 1.5” 0.120 wall and it’s about a 1.26” ID. The 1.625 X 0.134 wall is 1.357” ID. So still doesn’t work out.

After afterthought. Again in the category of there are no stupid questions (or suggestions):

Do you have a drill press? For some of my screwy projects I’ve had to “turn” down the OD of a cylindrical metal part/piece. After busting a few things and fortunately not my fingers, I came up with this:

Using a stout threaded rod and a couple cone shaped wood ends, I pinched the piece so I could spin it on the drill press.

Trying to then cut with a tool never worked, too unstable. Then I had the brainstorm to put a rotating drum sander in my hand drill. With the drill press spinning, I held the hand drill drum at about a 45 degree angle, moving it slowly up and down, I could slowly grind down the outside.

Once, when I needed a piece precise, I ground only until it was a little oversized, and then I shifted to sheets of emery cloth, starting coarse and shifting sequentially to fine. I constantly checked it up and down with a digital caliper and worked it to pretty good precision.

If you go slow, you shouldn’t heat the metal. It was a little tedious, but considering your situation, budget, and desire for precision, it might work if you have a piece with the right ID that’s too big OD.

To make the wood cones, I used a hole saw a little bigger than the ID and used the cut plugs, I used a threaded rod like before, and just used a coarse file with it chucked in the drill press. After a couple tries, it was pretty easy to center parts.

Of course I save all this junk for the next time in the shed of miracles, but don’t ask me where they are!!!

Hope it helps!

& BTW, I trimmed the living heck out of a dozen of my trees up about 10ft, in front with my 10yr old 110v harbor freight chainsaw and my +/- 69 ft extension cord (started at 100’, but after 30 years, I’ve cut the ends off 20 times at least). Way more Macho than my Hobby Lobby glue gun, huh? Are you proud of me?

 

[JoshT]

I tried to diagnose an AC problem. Compressor is constantly cycling on and off. I checked the pressures and they are within range, but I get no cooling. I'm thinking it may be the high side transducer/high pressure swtich or possibly a blocked orifice. How could the orifice be blocked if the system has never been open? It was recharged once several years back and was fine.

Look up A/C Black death and it'll explain how a blocked oriface tube or condenser could happen. Not saying that is your fault, just that it can happen.

Have you checked your coolant level? The AC in my 99 has been screwy and underperforming since it started getting warm this year. I stuck one of those parts store recharge bottle gauges on it and that said good. System still didn't seem to be working right though. Then about two weeks ago the coolant temperature gauge spiked. Turns out that the radiator was half empty and I realized I probably hadn't checked it in over a year, truck was parked for most of that time and I simply didn't think about it when I got it back going. After filling up the system the AC is working a lot better too. Still underwhelming, but much better.

I still don't think it's working right, but I'm not going to spend money on it unless it actually breaks and causes other problems. I hope to be doing an engine swap in the next few years which will also carry over the donor's AC compressor. The AC will likely have to be redone then so not going to invest in repairing whats there now. If I really need good AC in the interim I've also got the Kia and the F-250 that work well.

Do you have a drill press? For some of my screwy projects I’ve had to “turn” down the OD of a cylindrical metal part/piece. After busting a few things and fortunately not my fingers, I came up with this:

Using a stout threaded rod and a couple cone shaped wood ends, I pinched the piece so I could spin it on the drill press.

Trying to then cut with a tool never worked, too unstable. Then I had the brainstorm to put a rotating drum sander in my hand drill. With the drill press spinning, I held the hand drill drum at about a 45 degree angle, moving it slowly up and down, I could slowly grind down the outside.

Once, when I needed a piece precise, I ground only until it was a little oversized, and then I shifted to sheets of emery cloth, starting coarse and shifting sequentially to fine. I constantly checked it up and down with a digital caliper and worked it to pretty good precision.

If you go slow, you shouldn’t heat the metal. It was a little tedious, but considering your situation, budget, and desire for precision, it might work if you have a piece with the right ID that’s too big OD.

To make the wood cones, I used a hole saw a little bigger than the ID and used the cut plugs, I used a threaded rod like before, and just used a coarse file with it chucked in the drill press. After a couple tries, it was pretty easy to center parts.

Of course I save all this junk for the next time in the shed of miracles, but don’t ask me where they are!!!

Hope it helps!

& BTW, I trimmed the living heck out of a dozen of my trees up about 10ft, in front with my 10yr old 110v harbor freight chainsaw and my +/- 69 ft extension cord (started at 100’, but after 30 years, I’ve cut the ends off 20 times at least). Way more Macho than my Hobby Lobby glue gun, huh? Are you proud of me?

I've done something similar at work using a hand drill and a file. It was a smaller item. Put a long bolt through the middle, item pinched in place with a nut. Chucked up the bolt shaft sticking out. Spun it up using a file to get size close then sand paper to finish out. I don't recall what the material was though. Either a soft metal like aluminum, or a hard plastic.

A hand drill wouldn;t work for something the size of this coupler, but a drill press might. Doesn't seem like it has to be precise, just close enough to locate the piece, then the strength of the weld secures it in place. Seriously, from the pictures I've seen the portion inserted in the tube does not look long enough for it to provide much strength in a press fit. It's filling the resulting groove with weld that gives the strength.

I must have missed the macho Hobby Lobby glue gun. I bought one off Amazon months ago, maybe a year ago, for a project on the F-100 and still haven't taken it out of the box. Wow, I checked and it's been 1.5 years, didn't realize I'd been sitting on that project for that long. Need to get off my ass and get moving on it.

My extension cords generally get shortened with a push mower. Usually the resulting pieces aren't long enough to bother with replacing the end. Hey, atleast I haven't cut the plug off my circular saw with the saw, that's how I got mine for free.

 

[ben_2_go]

Look up A/C Black death and it'll explain how a blocked oriface tube or condenser could happen. Not saying that is your fault, just that it can happen.

Have you checked your coolant level? The AC in my 99 has been screwy and underperforming since it started getting warm this year. I stuck one of those parts store recharge bottle gauges on it and that said good. System still didn't seem to be working right though. Then about two weeks ago the coolant temperature gauge spiked. Turns out that the radiator was half empty and I realized I probably hadn't checked it in over a year, truck was parked for most of that time and I simply didn't think about it when I got it back going. After filling up the system the AC is working a lot better too. Still underwhelming, but much better.

I still don't think it's working right, but I'm not going to spend money on it unless it actually breaks and causes other problems. I hope to be doing an engine swap in the next few years which will also carry over the donor's AC compressor. The AC will likely have to be redone then so not going to invest in repairing whats there now. If I really need good AC in the interim I've also got the Kia and the F-250 that work well.

Yeah coolant is good. I used my manifold gauges to check my pressures on the high and low side. Everything is in range with my charts based on ambient temps. It blows hot all the time. I checked the heater valve to make sure it isn't stuck open and all is good there. Yeah black death is the only thing that is starting to fit.

 

[Snoranger]

Yeah coolant is good. I used my manifold gauges to check my pressures on the high and low side. Everything is in range with my charts based on ambient temps. It blows hot all the time. I checked the heater valve to make sure it isn't stuck open and all is good there. Yeah black death is the only thing that is starting to fit.

If your pressures are correct, then I HIGHLY doubt you have a clogged orifice tube.

 

[JoshT]

If your pressures are correct, then I HIGHLY doubt you have a clogged orifice tube.

Yeah, @ben_2_go, I wasn't trying to say that was your problem, just giving an example of how it could become clogged with the system being sealed.

I'm on my phone and can't see what year you're working on, if it says anywhere, but are you aware that on some Rangers the blend doors are vacuum controlled? Maybe you addressed that already, but it's the first place I'd look. Not sure, but I suspect it defaults to heat and the vacuum pulls it to open.

 

[rubydist]

@ben_2_go - if the pressures are correct but the compressor constantly cycles on/off, I would replace the high pressure switch. If that doesn't fix it, then you have a high side blockage somewhere - could be a plugged orifice tube or somewhere else.

 

[Snoranger]

@ben_2_go - if the pressures are correct but the compressor constantly cycles on/off, I would replace the high pressure switch. If that doesn't fix it, then you have a high side blockage somewhere - could be a plugged orifice tube or somewhere else.

A clogged orifice tube or expansion valve will cause the high side pressure to spike… usually high enough that the high pressure switch will shut the compressor down. If there’s no place for the pressure to go (restricted orifice) it will just keep building until the pressure relief blows off or the high press switch shuts the system down until the pressure drops. Then the process will happen again.
At the same time a restricted orifice will starve the low side, causing a lack of Freon to compress. The result will be the low side readings will be way low.
How can a high side restriction have normal pressures?

 

[Rick W]

A few a/c comments from an amateur who works magic from the shed of miracles….

Gauges: the “best” refill 134a gauges you can buy are about as accurate as the $8.50 2amp battery chargers I buy from China, usually 3 or 4 at a time. I use them as trickle chargers for the junk I’m not driving that day. If I take four of them and rotate them on and off the same battery at the same time, there’s probably a 20% variance in the charge level and the volts level.

Cycling on/off: in my feeble experience, the compressor cycling on and off is usually a classic sign of a low Freon level. Try turning on the system and timing how often it goes on and off after stabilizing. Then, bleed a little fresh Freon into it, slowly. If you hook everything up and you bleed the Freon in with the canister upside down, it enters the AC system pretty quickly. If you hold the can upright, it is pulling off the vapor instead of the liquid, and it will enter the system much more slowly. You can also throttle delivery way back with the little valve on the can that punctures the top of the can. If the clutch starts engaging longer, and the disengage gets shorter, that’s a pretty good sign that it was low on Freon, regardless of what the gauges might say. Pay attention to the compressor rattle and sound. When you do this, it rattles a little bit more when it’s low, typically, and quiets down when it gets full, typically, and you can also sense some strain if you start to overfill it, typically, before it builds up so much that you pop a hose or seal. A similar alternative is to intentionally bleed the system down a little bit, and then top it off with fresh Freon. That will pull the gauges down, and they will rise as the system fills to the right level. If they’re cheap, like mine, you’ll get a different result than if you just attach them at the functioning level.

“Freon” 12a: I’ve had some good luck cooling down functioning, but under-performing, AC systems by putting in a little “Freon” 12a. It really isn’t Freon, it is propane. Mixed with Freon 12 or with Freon 134A, it just improves the performance a little bit. You can usually buy it online for a little more than the 134a recharge costs, and you can load it with 134a gauges/connectors. Realize you can’t use pure Freon 12a. Your system may function correctly, but it defeats the lubricant and your system will die.

The reason they don’t use propane to start with is because it’s flammable/explosive. The tiny bit you would use topping off the already cool AC system is insignificant, but it can make a significant difference in the ice cubes pumping out your dash.

Hope it helps. Doing any of this is a very good time to wear safety goggles. And realize you’re getting your advice from a guy who mixes his beer with sprite in the summertime. I learned that from the Brits…